I recently purchased a ZEMs unit from another forum user but did not receive the instructions/start up info. I got a disc with Megatune 2.25 installer, and a zip file that says 029q2_zeal.zip that contains no installation instructions or what to do with any of the files in it.

I loaded megatune, but when I connect to the ecu and turn the ignition to run, I get the following error:
The www.zealengineering.com site is still down, so i can't go there and try to download anything.

Can anyone help? I want to get my car up and running this weekend, and I don't want to have to go back to the stock, gas-hungry, ECU.


Thanks,
DT


Car:
88 S4 NA
K&N Intake
Stock Exhaust manifold to RB cat elim and pre-silencer to Dual N1
15.953 @ 87.48mph

 

So, I did the research and got past that error message. But I still desperatly need the msq and configs from ZEMS, the msq on the disc I got with PnP unit is for a 350ci V8. I tried using the setting from the faq and writing them to the ECU, but... there's two images in the faq of the same setup screen - Power cycle after changes - and both have different data. Which is correct? Is the wheel decoder info in the faq even right for using the PnP unit? I see threads all over the place about having to stab the CAS and/or cut teeth.

Does anyone have the cd ZEMS shipped these units with?

 

The msq that came on the disc is not for a v8.

It's for an NA rx7.

Use that msq.

The guy you bought that from should also have included the instructions (on paper) for installation.

Ken

 

No instructions on paper, but as far as I can tell, the install is pretty simple. Plug in, and hook up 1 vac line and my wideband. Once i get everything running, i'll remove the AFM and hook up the fuel pump.

I do not believe the disc I received is the original Zeal disc. And unless I'm completely clueless, the msq is not for an RX-7. Here's one of the sections that makes me think that:

<constant name="matType1">&quot;GM&quot;</constant>
<constant name="nCylinders1">&quot;8&quot;</constant>
<constant name="nInjectors1">&quot;8&quot;</constant>
<constant name="reqFuel1" units="ms">15.5</constant>

These lines from the 029q2 zip on the disc I have are identical to the 029q2 zip I can pull straight off the sourceforge page - which is what i believe 57Bronco gave me, a download from SourceForge, and not the original disc.

I tried burning the 029q2 default-degF.msq - which is all i have on the disc. Car won't start, and nothing looks right.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1182032215

This link is a picture from his post selling the unit, and is exactly what I received.

 

Here's the full msq I have on the disc - like i said, I don't think it's right. I'm trying to set up my on based off of the faq currently.

 

And one more...

using the attached msq that i bastardized and pieced together i can get the car to catch, but not really start and run. By flutttering the gas pedal i can sometimes get it to completely start and run - but not well at all, and it won't idle. I've got a log file included as well.

back to reading and hoping.

 

Yeah, that's not one of our msq's, I'll try to send you one when I get home.

 

Any update on getting that msq?

Thanks...

 

Yeah, I'll send it tonight. Can you PM me an email address?

Ken

 

Got the base map - thanks Ken - it just doesn't seem to have helped me much. The car tries to catch and start, and will start and run if I flutter the throttle and then keep giving it gas. It won't idle, and when running it's very rough.

I've tried bumping up the warm-up and cracking enrichment settings with no change. I'm attaching a log file where i kept it running for a few. Can someone point me in the right direction to get this running? Do you have to stab the CAS with a PnP unit? Is it just noise? I've checked the grounds multiple times.

thansk,
Dave

 

Your MAT sensor appears to be broken, it's stuck at -40 degrees... that'll throw fuel way off, making the engine not run right..

You also have a noise issue... it could be coming from the +12v rather than the grounds...

Try fixing the MAT signal first, as that'll probably help it run a bit better. Worst case, I have a mod we can make to the MS that might help get rid of that noise. My own rx7 has a noise issue, and this mod fixed that. Basically it's to put a .01 uF capacitor across the G+ and G- inputs where they connect to one of the daughtercards inside the MS.

Ken

 

So, when I pulled the intake manifold to clean up the ECU ground I sort of managed to forget to hook back up the IAT sensor. For future reference -40 degrees = not hooked up.

Connected it - car started, and idled. Poorly. But it does run much better now than it did before - just nowhere near stock ECU quality. And it eventually died, but I got a good bit of logging.

I'm guessing the noise issue is what's causing the bulk of my problems now. In the morning I'll try disconnecting the alternator and running solely off of the battery to see if it's causing my noise issue.

If it isn't the alternator, is there anything else I should check before I try putting the cap between the G+/G-?

new log file attached - anything else look off?

 

Seems to me that as RPMs come down, the spikes aren't as bad...

The battery voltage during this test wasn't in the log... could you open up the "realtime display" or right click one of your gauges while running and display the battery voltage? If the battery voltage is jumping up and down, there are a few other things we can do to help clean up the noise.

Ken

 

Running with the alternator disconnected didn't seem to make any difference.

The battery voltage is fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.8... would two tenths of a volt make that much difference?

New log from this morning with battery voltage logging enabled. I'd hooked back up the alternator at this point, and the battery is a bit low from this mornings tests, but...

 

Hrmm, seems like it might just be VR noise then... a couple of tenths shouldn't cause that much of a problem.

that cap on G+ and G- may help.

Ken

 

I don't suppose you can post a pic or some instructions on where and how that cap goes? I tried searching, and see where you've mentioned it several times to other users, but no specifics.

Thanks,
dt

 

it's not difficult... where the G+ and G- wires hook to your second VR conditioner, put a .01 uF cap across them.

Ken

 

After much digging, I'm guessing that the ZEM's box is using an older version of error*'s daughtercard. I can't find any schematics on it, but it's definately not the V2 - which I can find schematics for.
Based off of the one post I found regarding the V1 board, the T1 and T5 leads are the VR input and ground, respectively. According to the ms faq here, those should be the G+ and G-. Are my assumptions here correct?

I'm sure this would be simple if I had schematics. As I do not, and as I also do not feel like letting the smoke demons escape due to my lack of knowledge - I'm asking lot's of questions.

 

OK, on the error* board, it's going to be the two wires coming from the MS board that solder in near the lm1815.

I'll see if I can find the old error* board docs, or a board itself to verify the via designations.

Ken

 

That's correct T1 and T5 correspond to G+,G- looking at my Error*V1.0 board.

 

.01uf cap is in place. Car still has basically the same problems. the rpm signal isn't as spiky any more, but it doesn't run smoothly at all, won't idle, and now it dies after about 15 seconds or so no matter what i do.

log attached.

 

Does not look like your map sensor is hooked up, your map readings are stuck at 100kpa.

 

IF the cap helped the spikes in rpm, then you definitely have noise coming from somewhere.

Ken