Using the GM Coolant Temperature Sensor in replacement for the OEM CLT Sensor
Using the GM Coolant Temperature Sensor in replacement for the OEM CLT Sensor
Wasn't sure what the thread pitch was for the OEM CLT sensor and obviously I don't want useless sensors sitting around and wanted to use this port for my GM CLT sensor. Has anybody done this before?
I'm currently using the sensor below on my REW,
GM - 19236568
Ac Delco - 213-4514
Same thread pitch as the oem sensor and uses the same calibration as the 3/8 thread temperature sensor. The connector is different than oem but it's also the same as the 3/8 thread sensor.
GM - 19236568
Ac Delco - 213-4514
Same thread pitch as the oem sensor and uses the same calibration as the 3/8 thread temperature sensor. The connector is different than oem but it's also the same as the 3/8 thread sensor.
Last edited by undesiredshoe; Jul 8, 2020 at 11:07 PM.
I'm currently using the sensor below on my REW,
GM - 19236568
Ac Delco - 213-4514
Same thread pitch as the oem sensor and uses the same calibration as the 3/8 thread temperature sensor. The connector is different than oem but it's also the same as the 3/8 thread sensor.
GM - 19236568
Ac Delco - 213-4514
Same thread pitch as the oem sensor and uses the same calibration as the 3/8 thread temperature sensor. The connector is different than oem but it's also the same as the 3/8 thread sensor.
That's pretty cool. What are the chances that the gauge sender on the 3-wire sensors will work with the Mazda gauge?
I have just been using the Mazda sensor, unrecalibrated. It's only ten degrees off from correct, nothing to worry about. So I run out of warmup enrichment at 150F instead of 160F, big deal.
I have just been using the Mazda sensor, unrecalibrated. It's only ten degrees off from correct, nothing to worry about. So I run out of warmup enrichment at 150F instead of 160F, big deal.
Trending Topics
What 3 wire sensor are you talking about, Peejay? At least on FCs, the factory cluster gauge sensor is a single wire on the rear iron and the ECU sensor is a 2 wire in the water pump housing. I've always kept the stock cluster wire and sensor since it's part of the body harness and doesn't get replaced when making a new engine harness. FWIW, you can also easily use a PWM output from the MS to control the stock coolant temp and oil pressure gauges. With my turbo LS swap, I have all of the factory gauges working from the MS3ProU.
The 3 wire GM sensor from some early Gen III applications before they were controlling the temperature gauge by CAN. I forget if it was from early C5s or early trucks. There is one ground leg and two sender/sensor legs, one with the correct resistance curve for the computer, and one with the correct resistance curve for a GM instrument cluster.
I've used them in swaps before.
I've used them in swaps before.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,796
Likes: 3,210
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
The 3 wire GM sensor from some early Gen III applications before they were controlling the temperature gauge by CAN. I forget if it was from early C5s or early trucks. There is one ground leg and two sender/sensor legs, one with the correct resistance curve for the computer, and one with the correct resistance curve for a GM instrument cluster.
I've used them in swaps before.
I've used them in swaps before.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








