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Megasquirt Upgrading from MS2e1.0.2 to MS2e2.0.1

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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 07:03 AM
  #1  
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Upgrading from MS2e1.0.2 to MS2e2.0.1

OK. I have my car pretty sorted with MS2e1.0.2 so naturally I want to try MS2e2.0.1

I made a copy of my 102 map and just set 201 to use 12x12 tables at first. I made a jumper to switch between the 2nd trigger going into JP4 and JS10.

My JS10 2nd trigger input also has a NPN transistor between the LM1815N and the CPU.

My problem was I don't think I understand 201's trigger settings properly. I had setup the 2 msqs just about identical but with 201 the timing was 60degrees advanced.

My settings in 102
Tooth #1 Angle: 0 Degrees
Trigger Offset: 60 Degrees
Skip Pulse: 3
1st Ign Input: Rising Edge (I'm not using VROUTINV anymore)
2nd ign input: Rising Edge
Toothed Wheel: 24 Teeth, and cam wheel

My settings in 201
Tooth #1 Angle: 0 Degrees
Trigger Offset: 60 Degrees
Skip Pulse: 3
1st Ign Input: Rising Edge (I'm not using VROUTINV anymore)
2nd ign input: Falling edge
Toothed Wheel: 24 Teeth, and cam wheel
Reset 2nd trigger: Per Crank rpm


Whats the difference, I can't see any. But the timing changes between the 2 codes. I flipped the 2nd ign input because the NPN setup on the LM1815N inverts the waveform.



When Using MS2e1.0.2 I use this circuit except for the RC timing and VR input R/C values


When Using MS2e2.0.1 I use this circuit except for the RC timing and VR input R/C values




My car is pretty sorted when using MS2e1.0.2, and even runs with the equivalent tune in 201 but the timing is way out and I don't understand why.

Last edited by Jobro; Aug 26, 2008 at 07:10 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #2  
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You shouldn't be using a trigger offset... you should be setting the tooth #1 angle instead. Tooth #1 angle should be set to 5 degrees, and trigger offset should be 0. This is how both codes should be set up. This is assuming a stock CAS stab.

In 1.0.2 the trigger offset didn't do anything, but it does in 2.0.1, which would cause the timing to be off.

Ken
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 09:15 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by muythaibxr
You shouldn't be using a trigger offset... you should be setting the tooth #1 angle instead. Tooth #1 angle should be set to 5 degrees, and trigger offset should be 0. This is how both codes should be set up. This is assuming a stock CAS stab.

In 1.0.2 the trigger offset didn't do anything, but it does in 2.0.1, which would cause the timing to be off.

Ken
Gotcha Ken! I will try that.

I've got another one for you :P I tested my leading trailing split yesterday and on the light they are locked together!
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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The only time they should be locked together is on crank or if you have the split set to 0 on purpose.


Ken
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 03:21 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by muythaibxr
The only time they should be locked together is on crank or if you have the split set to 0 on purpose.


Ken
Cool! I will have a look, and a trawl through the MSQ in MT.

Btw Ken I know I was blaming all my problems on noise :P I found the root cause :P It was dirty injectors that were apparently cleaned and also sucking air from behind the injectors.

I know you know misfires cause noise, and I think it was a case of the rich rotor lean rotor symptom, AND the rich/lean fluctuations causing misfires and ecu problems.

I will try to get this sorted then week and get the car in a good state of running. Even with all my non-mega related issues I think I am really starting to appreciate the efforts of the whole mega team. Its pretty beaut overall!
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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Good to know our work is helping!

Ken
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:32 AM
  #7  
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Hey Ken,

:P Not what you wanna read, I had a proper (ie trip to the machinist etc) go at fixing my vac leak behind my injectors. I still have a slight leak.

I also still have a missfire/noise problem. I rerouted my cas cable as far away from noise sources, and its still there. You can feel it in the car, you can see it on the tacho and in MT, and you can even feel the misfire pulse out the exhaust pipe (it blows really hard for a sec). On the timing light its like an ign event that just doesn't happen.

I know how to fix my injector air leak.

But I don't really know what more I can do regarding my tacho signal. I have all the noise filters on. I've tried adjusting Pots before, I've used both missing tooth and 2nd trigger. I'm rerouted my cable. I've drastically improved my ecu grounding. I have an RC filter across the 2 tooth wheel.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:38 AM
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Something else!

The noise problem is much worse when the e-fans kick in. Its like the miss still happens but it's no longer rythmic and the ign event that doesn't happen doesn't happen all the time, rather than on and off, if that makes sense.

Whats crazy is the sound of the engine is better when the e-fan is on, even tho on the timing light its nearly like every 2nd or 3rd spark doesn't go off.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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First, the timing light isn't a great indicator of misses.

Second, misses can cause noise to a point.

Third, how do you have the engine and MS grounded?

Ken
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