this is what happened sooo i was zeroing on the timing and i marked the pully at where 15 degrees advanced would be using simple math and tried to start it. soo it wouldnt start and i tried turning the Cas by hand
didnt work....so then i tried turning the E shaft with a socket...while the computer was on..all of a sudden big clouds of smoke start pouring out of the relay...i checked the fuse...looks good. went to start the car and nothing not even red lights showing or bleeping. please help

I really hope i didnt blow the ecu up. =) Cause the fuel pump still turns on which i believe is controlled by the ecu correct? Let me know any ideas you think of. THanks

 

what relay? Its possible that the starter stuck and was still engaged and just burning itself up the whole time. Just try out the MS on the stim and confirm that its working. The fuel pump can be controlled by MS, it depends on whether you've removed the AFM and connected it. If you havent, then the fuel pump is not.

 

Afm Is gone...btw the fuses that I use as safety precaution is still in one piece....not cut so I'm gonna test for power...

 

sigh
I already told you earlier. If you are referring to your basic relay that I had you put in that powers the "fusebox" for your injectors and ecu, then replace it with another one. It has NOTHING to do with the ecu.

 

I fixed it thanks guys...just had to figure out why it wasnt getting any power. Should be done monday. Btw anybody know how to calibrate the MS with my Wideband. The readings on the wideband and the MS are different...

 

For MS1, thru msconfig, you need to select the correct wideband output. For MS2, they have it built into megatune so you select it (or input it) in the wideband calibration window.

 

did you ground the wideband to the same spot as the ms like I mentioned yesterday?

 

No i didnt why would grounding it in the same spot make any difference

 

VERY IMPORTANT! Don't wanna roast $200USD worth of equipment. Listen to me!

Put the signal ground of the wideband to the MS back connector on a ground pin. Now you must connect the power ground of the wideband to the same piece of metal that the MS is grounded to. You MUST use a different bolt, but it needs to be on the same piece of metal be it chassi battery or engine.

If you do not follow this procedure I will guarantee you that LC-1 will die within a few months of daily driving. They are totally intolerant of poor grounding techniques! According to the manufacturer they put the accuracy of the sensor as the number #1 priority, so you need to take more care than normal!


Now I will explain my ECU/LC-1 grounding system that works in my car.

For ECU grounds I use 7x 10A wires soldered to the Megasquirt back connector on the ground points. These are about ~20cm (~1ft) long. These seven wires then collect into one heavy gauge wire (rated to at least 50A). The heavy wire runs all the way back to the battery -ve termal. It is bolted to the battery lug/terminal.

The signal ground for the LC-1 is soldered to a pin/cup on the Megasquirt back connector on a ground pin/cup. It is here because you want as little ground bias as possible.

The power ground for the LC-1 needs to be as close to the same ground as possible, but not too close. The problem is that the wideband controller uses a noisy switch mode power supply for the wide band heater/pump circuit. Putting the power ground in the Megasquirt back connector will cause ECU resets and other problems like this because of the noise produced by the wideband controller. The solution is to put the ground on a different bolt that is connected to the same ground plane.

My solution to this problem is to use a 10A rated wire from the LC-1 power ground, and run it all the way to the battery -ve terminal again, but bolt it to the battery using a different lug.

 

Having everything grounded properly (most of the time that means grounding all the electronics to the same spot) makes a HUGE difference.

Otherwise you can get ground loops and voltage differences from one spot to the other. This can cause problems like the one you're seeing, or it can cause some of the electronics to fry in the worst case.

Ken

 

Good call.


Bad call. This can work, but I've had issues doing it this way. The absolute best way to do it would've been to take those 7x10A wires, and run them all up to the same ground bolt on the manifold or block. I talked to Bruce (Bowling, the hardware designer for the DIY MS hardware) about it, and basically the thicker wire can actually act as a resistor to smaller currents, which can show up as a small ripple on the ground.

Looking at my stock 2007 rx8, they run several small ground wires from the ECU to the ground point, keeping them separate all the way there.

I actually prefer not to run the MS or any other grounds directly to the battery. I've seen certain situations where doing it this way can cause noise during cranking due to the cyclic voltage drop put on the system by the starter. In my experience, it is better to wire the battery to the chassis (And the starter on an rx7, that's how it's done from the factory), then wire all the grounds for the MS to the engine, and ground the engine to the chassis. Using this method showed the least noise on the scope. Incidentally, the method I just described is almost exactly how the 2nd gen rx7 comes from the factory, and is similar to just about every OEM setup I've ever looked at with a few exceptions.

Ken

 

yeah Lucky2tha7 told me to do that...im gonna take care of that tonight...grounding the engine to the chassis and the chasis to the baterry ground located on the Driver side shocktower area....