toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Oh, good one, i forgot to mention the cable grounding.

If you're following the instructions in that page, then you've jumpered TSEL to VROUTINV, meaning that you need to have the "Ignition input capture" variable set to "Falling Edge"

As you've mentioned, pin 14 is grounded... if you laid out the components in the same way as described in that pdf, did you make sure pin 4 isnt touching anything thru the board?

OUT2 is connected to JS10?

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Did not follow the layout on the board when I built the VR circuit. Unfortunately I did not find the link until after I had built the circuit. I will double check but don't think I went to VROUT[B]INV[B] but to VROUT. Will double check to make sure. I am almost thinking I should unsolder everything and use that layout though as it is much neater than what I hacked together.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

May have found at least part of the problem. I had apparently misread the TSEL to VROUT jumper pads on the board that are in the middle of the board. That TSEL still went to OPT. That along with not using all shielded leads from the CAS are most likely the cause. Once I get the second VR rebuilt and layout cleaned up to match the example I found and the shielded cabling in for the CAS leads I will try again. That will most likely be this weekend.

Thanks again for getting me on the right track. Will update again over the weekend.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Okay, now have all shielded wires from CAS to relay board. NE+ goes through to pin 24 on the DB37 and the gores to the VRIN of the MS. NE- goes to Pin 7 on the relay board which is grounded. Pin 7 on the MS also goes to ground on the MS board,

GE+ goes to pin 31 on the relay board which in turn goes to the VRin on the second VR circuit. GE- goes to pin 36 of the realy board which in turn goes to pin 36 on the MS and then to ground on the MS board.

Still no RPM indication when cranking. Hooked my connector to a spare CAS I have and spun it with a drill and still no RPM indication. Will upload my current MSQ file shortly. Have it on my other computer.

muythaibxr

Are you using a V3 board (sorry if you mentioned it already, I help too many people)? If so do you have both the potentiometers turned fully counter clockwise?

Ken

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Yes, V3 and no, must have missed that somewhere in my research. Is there a way to tell if they are, I seem to remember that those types of pots hard hard to tell when you have reached either end. Been lot of years since I actually adjusted one of them.

By the way is there a write up anywhere on how to set up the JimStim for testing this? That sure would be easier than climbing in and out of the race car with the roll cage and all.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

I now have RPM signal. Now to see what else I have wrong. Thanks for the great help in this.

muythaibxr

Good news!

Ken

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Now chasing down spark issue. Taking baby steps but making progress. I suspect again maybe something in the basic ignition config or wiring. So will go back over those areas next. Again, thanks so much for all your help.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Almost there, have spark, almost started then stalled and not restarting but trying. So will review the page I saw on initial steps to get it started, make the needed tweaks and should be on my way. One of the splices we made when rewiring the coils that put the 12 volts out there was bad and didn't make connection.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

make sure you didnt flood the engine. When trying to get it to start for the first time, its pretty likely that you will.

muythaibxr

If you did flood it, flood-clear mode should take care of it most times.

Ken

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

meaning that you need to press the gas to the floor while cranking, and the MS knows to cut fueling. Is this still an option, or is it always active now?

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Okay, with the latest software, where do I go to really really cut down the amount of fuel we are getting. Even flood clear mode doesn't stop enough fuel flow to clear the flooding. Actually pulled the fuel pump fuse and the car started and ran for a good 10 seconds.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

you adjust the amount of fuel injected when starting in the cranking pulse screen. These numbers are percentages of your req_fuel value, and its not uncommon for them to be quite a bit over 100. They do taper as temp goes up tho.

muythaibxr

You can set it to be on only above certain throttle positions. It's only active above the throttle position you set.

Ken

muythaibxr

You must not have your TPS calibrated right or something. Flood clear mode doesn't inject any fuel at all. If you're still getting fuel you might have your injectors stuck open, or leaking.

Ken

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Yea, i just re-found that setting in MS2... i remembered it in MS1, just not in 2, even tho i've had it set the whole time.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

The injectors were working fine when I started the switch to MS. Could I have something wrong in the injector setup screen? I am using the stock NA low impedance injectors without a resistor pack. They have maybe 1000 miles on them after a complete servicing and checkout at a local injector shop.

Oh, by the way, engine ran almost 3 minutes after pulling the fuel pump fuse so it is very obvious I am getting way too much fuel.

muythaibxr

There's no way that an engine will run for 3 minutes without the fuel pump from flooding. There is still fuel getting out of the injectors and into the engine with your fuel pump off if it runs for that amount of time.

When I pull that fuse on my engine, if it starts, it runs for a few seconds and cuts out.

The settings for the injectors should not really have any effect on cranking, only while running.

Ken

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

I am going to go back over the injectors again to make sure I don't have any leaks or missing gaskets after having the intake off for the rewiring job. I was shocked when the car kept running after pulling the fuse. Like you I expected only a few seconds after the fuse was pulled. I double checked to make sure that I had pulled the right fuse and that there was no 12V getting to the FP. My son was with me and timed the run. The engine actually smoothed out immediately after pulling the fuse, it did not have any acceleration, but did idle smoothly.

Honest I am not totally dillusional.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Still flooding, have attached my current msq. Do I have required fuel too high? I tried adjusting cranking pulse clear down to 100 all the way down and still no start. It tries, but no start. Pulled all plugs, cleaned and dried then replaced them and it does a bit better for a short while.

muythaibxr

IT really sounds to me like you should check for short circuits on your injector wiring. It sounds like they're squirting whether you want them to or not.

Ken

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

Ken, Will do that but all of the engine wiring is completely brand new, I made up new harnesses and connectors myself. By the way I did check for leaking injectors on the secondaries at least and they did not leak.

One other thing I did was to pull the injector bank fuses one at a time to see if it was primaries or secondaries that seemed to be the cause but couldn't come up with anything definitive.

I have not checked for any kind of shorts going back to the CPU though, so will try to do that later today. Maybe something got shorted across to the injector leads in the cable between the relay board and the cpu when I pushed it through the big grommet in the firewall.

bschnard

iTrader: (4)

It runs, it idles, is accelerates. Have a new problem not MS related. Found some leaking seals on the primary injectors, but the main issue was the fuel requirements were set extremely rich. I tried using the fuel requirement calculator in MS and specifying the injector flow based upon the maximums listed in the FSM for a NA but that was was still way too rich. Then I did some additional research and decided to try 550 CC/Min and that got the car to where it would start and still had to lean the fuel map out quite a bit more to get a good smooth idle and acceleration. Again my car is an 87 NA, cold air intake, pollution controls gone and a big open exhaust. No other mods to the engine and supposedly stock injectors.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me through my many sometimes stupid and repetitive questions.