Hey Ken, I`m starting the second MS1 V3 build. Are the mods listed in the FAQ up to date still? Also I know there are a few steps (in the manual) that can be skipped in the build, but I can`t for the life of me find my notes from my first build. I want to be able to avoid having to unsolder (to replace) any components just to make the mods and there is no point in installing components that are outright not needed.

I`ve completed the power supply and communication assembly steps so far and passesdthe tests that are recommended. I plan on taking pictures of everything starting today and I`ll post them if anyone thinks they would be helpful.

 

Sure, go ahead and post pics.

The notes on building should still be correct.

Ken

 

Hey all, is there another number for the Q4 transistor that I can get a Radioshack.
I need the ZTX689 so I can run the BAC. I tried my local electronics shop but they are unable to cross referance that number to the line that they are a dealer for
(NTE electronics). I hate to go to Digikey for this one thing, they kinda stick it to you with their minimum order policy.

 

I have some extra from digikey ... PM me if you can't find a replacement.

 

Thanks, I think I may have it figured out.

Heres the first couple of pics. Number 1 is the power supply and comm circuits.
Number 2 is the clock circuit added to the mix.
At this point all tests have passed and the firmware is now loaded.
More to come

 

you can use a tip120 from radioshack, just mount it somewhere in the case with some mica backing, and run wires to the transistor holes for Q4.

 

Thanks Ken, I actually found that recommendation in the archives, something said by you to me back in spring of this year. I was a little slow doing that search so sorry for the "repost". I went ahead and placed a Digi-key order for several of the 689 trans. as well as heat shrink tube etc. I don`t really want to use the TIP120 due to its size, I prefer to keep the assembly as neat as I can.

 

Here is the 1st half of the input section build. I`m to tired to put in the first two transistors (Q22 and Q23) tonight, getting a little unsteady.


Question for Ken,
Now on my first MS unit I built both step 50 AND 51 completely.
I would like to skip unneeded steps this time around if I can.
I will be using a modded CAS (FYI)
Can I skip step 50 completely and just build step 51 or do I have to do anything special in place of step 50 for everything to work right?

 

Okay, I wanted to get a little more done on this so I went ahead without getting an answer to my question in the last post. I skipped everything in step 50 and completed everything in steps 51 (for VR sensor) through 55. So far I have passed all test. I AM almost sure that I will have to go back and install a jumper or two that I missed in step 50 once someone answers that question for me.

Anyway, here is a front and back pic of everything so far.

 

Hey Ken, any input on the step 50 51 question I posted?

 

This post has been viewed 119 times and no one has an answer for my question (that was posted four days ago) about skipping step 50? Or is it so stupid that its not worth even a comment?

 

According to the instructions:

"In most cases, you should install both circuits, and make the selection between them with jumpers. However, if you do not want to install the Hall/optical/points circuit, skip ahead to step #51."

So, it seems clear you can skip the entire step 50. For the time it takes, though, I'd just populate the entire board with all parts. That way if you ever want to use the MS box on another application, you can do so with a less hassle.

 

Thanks renns, thats what I understood in reading that section as well but there are so many little oddities in building for our rotary engines I just wanted to be certain. Sometimes when I post I feel like my questions might be on the "dumb" side but my objective is to "measure twice, cut once" if you get my drift.

Thanks for the input.

 

Well here it is with everything installed except the pull up resistors.
I`ll get those done and then start on the adapter harness so I`ll be able to connect to the factory harness.

Just so everyone knows, the black case looks nice but it sure does scratch easy.

 

So is the black a paint or an anodized color? I would think if it were anodized it would be a little tougher than that.

 

Its anodized but still seems to show scratches pretty easy. I`m rather **** about details though so take it with a grain of salt.