I realize, but we still don't have a "trigger angle" like you were thinking about it. We have a "tooth #1 angle" which can be anything that makes sense for an engine (0-720) and we calculate what we need internally from there. That is onl used for generic wheels though. On a 36-2-2-2 (rx8) wheel, we assume it is being used on the stock engine and only allow minimal adjustment. If the relative positions of everything do not match the rx8, timing will not be correct.

Ken

 

Cool thats what i was thinking at First. Hey full function it's there a way you can make an aluminum plate with a angle slot cut into it that will allow a ford vr

 

Cool thats what i was thinking at First. Hey full function it's there a way you can make an aluminum plate with a angle slot cut into it with the same roundnes of the rx8 trigger wheel. I'll post a pic of what I'm talking about in a min

 

However it's called or done, the wheel needs to be indexed properly and that's what we were trying to convey.

We have an entire bolt on trigger kit available for rx8 or 36-1 trigger patterns...

 

Sure... what did you expect to happen as a result? The code is what it is... if you want it to work, you have to make it work just like an rx8 wheel.

For MS, if you make an rx8 wheel kit, then the sensor needs to mount the same as it does on the rx8 as far as the relative angles go.

For the 36-1 kit, it doesn't really matter since you set the tooth #1 angle in the code.

So if you're retrofitting a wheel with more teeth to the e-shaft of an older rotary, and the angles and such don't line up with your kit the way they do on the rx8, it would probably be easier in terms of mounting and such to use the 36-1. The 36-2-2-2 code was written specifically to work with the rx8 and the few Subarus that use that pattern. We do give you + or - 20 degrees for minor adjustments, but you can't do more than that.

Additionally, the rx8 wheel isn't any better than at least the FD wheel... the areas of the wheel where you're most likely to be setting your timing are the areas with the missing teeth, which means you lose the extra resolution that having the extra teeth gives you (at least with the 04 rx8 arrangement). The FD wheel has 30 degrees between teeth, the rx8 wheel in the area where you're going to care about timing accuracy is also 30 degrees between teeth (2 missing with 10 degrees between base teeth gives you 30 degrees where you have the missing teeth).

Ken

 

So I'm basically fcuked since I bought a MS3 Pro for my swapped rx8-in which I need to use the 36-2-2-2 pattern, and I bought the kit FFE kit which the predetermined angle is about 90degrees? Now I really wished I bought a haltech instead.

 

the full fuction kit should work fine with the ms3 pro

 

Actually no, the current code won't work properly as far as we can tell. There is a thread on msextra about it. It looks like the amount of adjustability we have for that wheel is probably just short of what's needed to work with their kit. The angles they use are not quite what the OEMs used from the factory.

The benefit however of using MS, is that the developers listen, and we're going to change the code to allow the adjustments necessary to work with the full function kit.

Ken

 

Thumbs up, like, happy face and so on.....

 

all you have to do its mount the sensor like rx8

 

Bump from the depths.

Ken -Did these code changes happen, or is this still a limitation? I bought a FFE kit with the 36-2-2-2 style wheel. From what I can tell, this combo was likely purchased originally for a haltech, but I need to figure out how to run it on a megasquirt, hopefully without purchasing another wheel

 

oh NO!
i'm using a hall effect sensor with MS3-pro... with an rx8 trigger wheel and the pick up welded to the CAS neck on the front cover.a good 80 degrees from the rx8 stock,
i haven't setup the ecu and am a month from firing it... am i looking at issues i should correct now?

i thought i could click my wheel as a 36-2-2-2 and then spec the angle when i get a timing light on it. using the factory pulley so TDC mark is still there.

 

with no resolution, for now, i have removed a tooth from the factory 86 CAS turning into a 24-1. going to get a 60-2 wheel made for the fc at the rx8 wheel diameter. any forsight to That being a problem?