Here are the settings on the car. My data log was too large so I am working on trying to send a smaller one. My problem seams to be on the ignition side of things. Even not driving the car it seams to cut out at 4000 to 4100RPM and at 6000 rpm every time. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and coil for the leading ignition. I check the CAS shield only one end is to ground plus the neg and positive on it are correct. I had friend check timing and it is giving me off the timing light 23 Deg. From 3500 RPM to 7500 RPM. But as I pass 4000 to 4100 RPM and 6000 RPM it seams like ignition cuts out at that RPM. And the timing light reflexes this. This I believe is why I have that momentary rich spot in the RPM range. No spark fuels up and goes rich then ignition comes back and AFR goes clean. Standing still or driving in first and second gear are all the same spots it cuts out at. Always at 4000 to 4100 RPM and 6000 RPM. It is so predictable and not random so it can not be a loose wire or bar connection. Also to mention is that between those two spots it revs to 8500 RPM with out a miss. My rev limiter is set at 8600 RPM I have no clue at this point to what it could be. Has anyone out there have a consistent cut off at certain RPMs. I’m trying to get the car to the track this weekend. Help.
Thanks,
Kim

 

Here is the last run that I did. You can see that I make a shift hold it to the floor and at 4000 to 4100 it misses go rich then at exactly 6000 cuts out again. If I keep my foot in it in first gear I can get it to jump the 6000 RPM point then it will rev to 8500 RPM. Any answers out there I can not blame the car at this point. Change everything and checked all the Mega Squirt wiring twice. Have a race this weekend at Portland, this little glitch is the only thing holding me back.
Thanks Guy,
Kim

 

I took a brief look at your wheel decoder settings, and noticed they are wrong.

You should have it set up for -1 not -2 in the missing tooth settings. That could very well be causing problems (not sure how it was working at all at this point).

Ken

 

Hi Ken,
It starts with a small pop and as you can see by the log it runs. But in order to make it run I stab the CAS at tooth #5 before the missing tooth and set the decoder to what made it run. Also I set the timing in the program to 18 Deg at higher RPM. This so called combination got it to run to where the timing light would give me a total of 23 Degs on the crank at full RPM. I knew I was safe in not blowing it up. I will change the setting to 1 tooth missing and go from there. My guess is that I will have to start at restabing the CAS. It should not be a problem I have done it now a million times to get this far. I will test tonight and give you some feed back on the situation. Thanks for the quick help I hope this works. Sounds like it.
Best Regards,
Kim