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Megasquirt prob with cas singnal in vr2 system??

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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #26  
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Yes it should.

Ken
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:23 PM
  #27  
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ok yes after the cap on pin 14 its going to ground
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #28  
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Alright, if it's still getting nasty noise on crank, but works when you spin the CAS by hand, and you're sure your grounds and power are right, you can try changing the starter.

I had issues on my rx7 no matter what I did to the circuits and finally my starter just stopped working... I replaced the starter and the engine fired up perfectly the first try after that.

Ken
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #29  
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Ok we had so a an idea to ground the shielding then if we get no resalts we would ground the G- and still to no avail!

I'm so sonsused how can I get rid of starter noise? With out a cap on my vr2 input (as caping this stops it from firering) ican scope the out put and clearly there's loads of noise the
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #30  
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Ya I could do that its 200$ idont jave tho and it was kiust rebuild in .may. Thanks for tje ad vice
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #31  
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Wow I need to make shure I'm typing correctly witjh my crack berry lol
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:54 PM
  #32  
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ok, new update. DJ55b came over tonight and we cut from GE - from the db37 and grounded it. along with Ne - and grounded the shielding. now the car will see rpm while cranking with starter! WOOT WOOT one big step for man kind..... ok next prob, the coils will only fire once i let off the key. (while the engine is still under momentum). we do see rpm while cranking but no spark
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #33  
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According to H4inf's manuel, He says to put GE- on pin 36 of DB37. now pin 36 on the megasquirt does not appear to be a ground. What I did is cut it off from there and hooked up NE- and Ge- on the same ground and ontop of that I added a wire from the battery to those grounds and an additional ground from the battery to the CAS shielded wire. RPM seem to show kinda low though (250ish rpm but the engine definatly sounds like its turning quicker than that, and even while jumpered to another car still show's about the same rpm).
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #34  
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250 rpm cranking sounds about right. That's about how much I was seeing when all was working well with my setup. Now I find myself tracing my steps to find out why I have no rpm after a couple mods to the megasquirt. Keep up the good work this helps more than you know guys. Thanks.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #35  
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yeppers 250 Rpm is what we are getting, il get some 4Ga from the battery to the start bolts just to cover the ground prob. as i think i have it grounded to a central point on the strut tower. if that dont fix any thing um....
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #36  
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Pin 36 is IGN out:



It is only ground if you have jumpered IGN to ground on the board.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 09:56 PM
  #37  
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time for a nightly update, I added the ground from the battery to the bell housing/start bolt.
the spark seams supper strong now but i sill have the 220 rpm engine on my tack and no spark, now the center LED is always flashing when cranking and now the LED furthest from the db9 is starting to pulsate but not quite. i scoped the VR2 output and the noise went down about half of what it used to be. so theres progress there. she's so close its not even funny
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:43 PM
  #38  
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well time for my second nightly update what will the Ms section talk about when im done posting here

ok... R U guys ready for this. first off thanks for all your help and im sry for not checking this frist off.

my FB used to have AC so we figure its a big wire Y not use that for the power wright?.... well when u can the car over the ignition shuts down all power to all accessories to alow more power to crank the car.... thus making my coils and injectors not fire... to i pulled the fuse out and jumped the wire to the battery just to test and low and behold crap loads of spark while cranking the car with the starter WOOT WOOT!

so in the morning or after work il have to find a better way to hook up my 12V for the coil/injectors and i should be rolling. i tried to start the car last night but it was 12:30am and my neighbors house is wright beside my garage lol so il work on getting it started tomorrow. im so happy wright now i don't think il be able to sleep
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #39  
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well morning update. I went out side this morning before heading off to work. i figured i would charge my battery with my wife's car as im getting ready for work. but i could not resits trying to start her once more..... i turned the key and 15-30 seconds of cranking later we have ignition with a perfect idle! thanks for all your help
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #40  
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just a quick ? regarding the second VR2 system. the pdf in the thread Official MS2/extra with MS thread shows a cap to ground on pin 14, and at the bottem of that thread it showed it just going to ground. now thats there just to get rid of noise?
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 02:13 PM
  #41  
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The cap and resistor on pin 14 were for using it in RC timer mode. That mode doesn't really work well with the 2.0+ firmware, but if you ground pin 14 it works fine (puts it into zero-crossing mode).

Ken
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #42  
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I'll see how things go if it gives me any prob I'll yank it and put it to ground thanks.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #43  
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nightly update:
all is well, only prob i think i might have now is non ms related the car is charring at 15V but nothing i cant figure out i think.
no big problems car sounds like it has a big *** cam runs way to rich 10's at idle but much tuning is needed, when i start it with a fixed timing it fire wright up but with regular it takes some cranking eather way i figure it just need tuning, the big picture and in case some one searches no spark ms2 while cranking DONT USE YOUR AC POWER AS MAIN FEED FOR COILS
i wish i could jump in her now and start tuning...... but i have no clue wtf im doing and i promissed DJ55b i would not tune it my self

BTW thanks for all your help and for not getting mad at my dumb *** questions during this painful frustrating process
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #44  
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I'm happy to hear you stuck it out and got it done Immanuel7. It's encouraging for the rest of us. Get that car tuned and keep us updated. Almost right after reading this thread I fixed my rpm problems now it's on to the leading coils. It does not fire when cranking.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #45  
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but the trailing will fire?
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #46  
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Well I did about 45 minutes of tuning yesterday and everything under the boost area works pretty good right now. Car idles good at AFR 12.7-13.0. There's still quite a bit of tuning to be done but before we went into boost, Martin had to reocnnect his turbo oil properly so it didn't smoke like crazy all the time.
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 12:16 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by immanuel__7
but the trailing will fire?

Yes the trailing is working. With just the trailing coils working the will start but then die after a couple seconds. I'm almost positive the ignitor for the leading coils are burned out as this has happend to me before.
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