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Your VE table has some weirdness going on, look at it in 3D view and you can see what I mean. You have 2 columns both set at 800rpm and it causes it to get confused at the far left of the 3D table. You also have a dip in boost around 5-6000 rpm that would not be good. Like Aaron says turn off your closed loop idle until you have the map very well dialed in it will cause more problems than it is worth.
Your VE table has some weirdness going on, look at it in 3D view and you can see what I mean. You have 2 columns both set at 800rpm and it causes it to get confused at the far left of the 3D table. You also have a dip in boost around 5-6000 rpm that would not be good. Like Aaron says turn off your closed loop idle until you have the map very well dialed in it will cause more problems than it is worth.
Thanks! I will take a look at it later, I didn't change any values in the tables I just loaded the .vex files from Aaron's site.
I fixed the column, is the highlighted area what you are referring to? Another question, l was reading the site again, do I need to reduce these values by 30%+ because I'm running 850's instead of 550's?
For the VE table, you can import the table from my website which should give you a good starting point.
Should start on that table and run very rich. You can then highlight the light load/idle area and slowly bring all those bins down as the car struggles until it starts to smooth out. Should give you a good starting point.
Under Fuel Pump and Pressure, set the sensors to "off". Just housekeeping.
I'd highly suggest disabling idle PWM (set to "none" under Idle Control) for the first startup. The BAC will not be helpful while you are still tuning idle AFRs.
For your stock ports, bring the timing from 800 - 1200 RPM in the idle area (40 - 55 KPA) down to 5 degrees. I intend to change this on my website because the 18 degrees is actually more suited to a bridgeport running lean idle ratios.
Also turn the boost control off for the first startup and the initial tuning. No sense adding more confusion.
I agree with Aaron on most of that. I would use the BAC but set to warmup only to begin with just in case you don't have enough air going in without it.
For the VE table, you can import the table from my website which should give you a good starting point.
Should start on that table and run very rich. You can then highlight the light load/idle area and slowly bring all those bins down as the car struggles until it starts to smooth out. Should give you a good starting point.
Under Fuel Pump and Pressure, set the sensors to "off". Just housekeeping.
I'd highly suggest disabling idle PWM (set to "none" under Idle Control) for the first startup. The BAC will not be helpful while you are still tuning idle AFRs.
For your stock ports, bring the timing from 800 - 1200 RPM in the idle area (40 - 55 KPA) down to 5 degrees. I intend to change this on my website because the 18 degrees is actually more suited to a bridgeport running lean idle ratios.
Also turn the boost control off for the first startup and the initial tuning. No sense adding more confusion.
An Update! It runs! However it is obviously very, very rich. Autotune has leaned it out a little bit around the idle area, but when you apply throttle and it leaves the idle area (1500-2000rpm) it starts surging like crazy. Would this be related to the timing or fuel tables?
Eventually when you have the car tuned and the idle around 800 RPM, set the 700 RPM timing bins to 8 degrees as well as the 1200 RPM bins. That will help stabilise the idle.
As for the surging, don't try to use auto tune on the idle. It just won't work very well because it will tune those bins in isolation. Manually adjust the bins around idle and the transition period to get a smooth off-idle response then set up the auto tune parameters to cover your cruise area for the start.
Eventually when you have the car tuned and the idle around 800 RPM, set the 700 RPM timing bins to 8 degrees as well as the 1200 RPM bins. That will help stabilize the idle.
As for the surging, don't try to use auto tune on the idle. It just won't work very well because it will tune those bins in isolation. Manually adjust the bins around idle and the transition period to get a smooth off-idle response then set up the auto tune parameters to cover your cruise area for the start.
Eventually when you have the car tuned and the idle around 800 RPM, set the 700 RPM timing bins to 8 degrees as well as the 1200 RPM bins. That will help stabilize the idle.
As for the surging, don't try to use auto tune on the idle. It just won't work very well because it will tune those bins in isolation. Manually adjust the bins around idle and the transition period to get a smooth off-idle response then set up the auto tune parameters to cover your cruise area for the start.
I was able to start the car again today and actually take it for a short drive. It still idles very high (~15-1600rpm) and seems to surge in the 2-3k rpm range.
I attached the tune and log file of pulling it in the garage (you can see the surging towards the end)
Don't even need to look at the data log to know the surging is because its lean, but verified with the data log. The log so perfectly shows surging near the end, with the RPMs bouncing and the AFRs ranging from 13s to off the charts lean.
Correct the idle by fixing any vacuum leaks than manually turning the idle down via the hard throttle body stop and the screw on the BAC (if applicable). Go very slowly and adjust the AFRs as you go to keep them around 12.5. Get the idle down to about 1000 RPM.
I don't normally do this but figured what he hell since I had the tune and log already open. I've made some changes to your tune and attached a new file as "Correct Current Tune". Give that a try. You'll see that all it does is richen up considerably the areas where the car was surging and change the idle timing. Just an example of what needs to be done.
Don't even need to look at the data log to know the surging is because its lean, but verified with the data log. The log so perfectly shows surging near the end, with the RPMs bouncing and the AFRs ranging from 13s to off the charts lean.
Correct the idle by fixing any vacuum leaks than manually turning the idle down via the hard throttle body stop and the screw on the BAC (if applicable). Go very slowly and adjust the AFRs as you go to keep them around 12.5. Get the idle down to about 1000 RPM.
I don't normally do this but figured what he hell since I had the tune and log already open. I've made some changes to your tune and attached a new file as "Correct Current Tune". Give that a try. You'll see that all it does is richen up considerably the areas where the car was surging and change the idle timing. Just an example of what needs to be done.
Thanks so much! I'll give it a go. There aren't any vacuum leaks as far as I can detect. I have the BAC installed, but it is still not enabled up as you mentioned to tune the idle before bothering with having the BAC turned on. I have a larger log I can't attach from the test drive, but when WUE is on it idles around 1000-1100, but as soon as it hits operating temp I can't get it any lower than 1500, sometimes as high as 1800. When I get some time again I'll try to work through the throttle body to see if I can bring the idle down.
The reason you are seeing the variable idle is that the rich ratio is pulling the idle down, then when it gets a bit better the engine frees up and idles higher. In general, the leaner the AFR, the higher the idle until it reaches a point it can't sustain.
