So I have been reading through Aaron cakes manual and the DIY manual for wiring up a ms2 v3.0 with the zeal board into my t2 fc streetport build with a fd intake mani and bws360 with all supporting mods. I had a couple of lingering questions I did not fully grasp yet...

1-Aaron cake says to wire up both vr conditioners yet the DIY auto tune write up says nothing of the sort? Are both still needed for the stim as per Aaron cakes write up?

2- the DIY auto tune write up states to build the ecu up to trigger from vr input, so do I wire in the ign inputs and continue as normal after that?

3) is step 65 for the high current ign driver necessary?

4) is step 69 necessary even though I am running the zeal board?

Finally I have a soldering gun and need to pick up a soldering iron. Would one from RadioShack be sufficient? If not does anyone have a recommendation?

Thank you in advance for the assistance

 

5) is it necessary to do the blue box step for pwm when using zeal?

 

One last question, I am using a fd intake manifold and wanted to know is the diode necessary for the fd bac valve also?

 

Ordered a soldering gun from my snap on guy. Hopefully it will do the trick

 

You should just follow one FAQ or the other. I actually prefer Aaron Cake's method.

 

So no zeal board? Or try to incorporate it in to aaron cakes method?

 

Please follow only one writeup.

Mixing and matching will just cause issues.

Now, if you do want to use the Zeal, by all means, use it. However to keep things simple, you can just use it for the 2nd VR circuit. Substitute the Zeal for the circuit in my writeup and connect it's VR input to the pin I specify (spare something) to keep things consistent for the rest of the writeup.

 

Aaron,
Thank you so much for the write up and your continuous help. I will just use your write up.
I am running the fd mani and wanted to know if its ok to wire it up as a full range sensor? Or really is there any benefit to doing so? Also is the diode still necessary with the fd bac? Thanks again

 

Anyone have advice about wiring the fd sensor as full range? Or the diode being needed for fd bac valve?

 

Use the full range TPS on the FD manifold. That's what I've done.

As for the diode, yes, you need it. Any sort of solenoid whether it be an idle valve or a relay needs the diode to absorb the kickback as power is cut from the coil. The magnetic field around the coil collapses which induces a reverse polarity high voltage spike. The diode absorbs that. If you don't have the diode, at the very least it will render the valve very difficult to control (ie. no response until very high duty cycles and little resolution) or at the worst, eventually fry the driver on the 'Squirt.

 

Awesome, thanks aaron

 

I went to order the items for the second vr input from digikey and it says they are not available. Can anyone give me good part numbers they used to order their second vr input? Or possibly assist me(I am very slow) in understanding how to incorporate the zeal board into Aarons write up?

I believe this is what Aaron stated i should hook the zeal board up to

If you are using MSI, connect "OUT" to pin 11 (JS8 on the board) of the CPU. If you are using MSII on the 1.x MS2Extra firmware, connect to JP4 which is on the CPU board. If you are using version 2.x of MS2Extra and MSII, connect to JS10 (pin 17 on the CPU).

Connect SPR1 (pin 3 of the DB37 connector) to "CAS" using a bit of hookup wire. Connect SPR2 (pin 4 of the DB37) to the ground point of the LM1815 circuit with a bit of hookup wire.

Then i do this?

Finally, the Megasquirt needs to be configured to accept an input on its built in VR circuit. Remove any jumper at XG1 and XG2. Remove the jumper from OPTOIN to TACHSELECT if present. If TSEL is set to OPTOOUT, remove that jumper as well. Jumper VRIN to TACHSELECT. Now jumper TSEL to VROUTINV. The last step is to turn both of the pots fully counterclockwise. Use a small screwdriver and go slowly. It takes a lot of turns to reach the end. At the end there will either be an indent or a click. When you reach that point, back off a few turns, counting the number of turns you go. Then go forward again, stopping just before the click point (count your turns and stop just before your count ends).

 

I believe after i put the zeal board together i set it up like this to the mother board and then configure it like Aaron desricbes in configuring the input on its built in vr cicuit. (I just realized the connections in the first step above are related to building the vr input and not using the zeal board)

On a V3.0 or V3.57 board, you can use the main board VR conditioner for the primary (NE) input, and the VR2 conditior for the secondary (G) input. On a V2.2 board, you'll need both conditioners. You are best bringing both wires of the sensor all the way to the board, instead of grounding the negative wire. This reduces cross talk noise issues. You can bring the signals in on unused pins on the DB37 (or DB15, in the case of a V3.57 board) and use the appropriate jumper holes on the main board to connect to the conditioner. For example, if you brought the G sensor signal in on pin 25 for the positive terminal and 27 for the negative terminal on a V3.0/V3.57 board, you would connect the lower (positive) VR2 hole to IAC1A, and the upper (negative) hole to IAC1B. Here is where to connect VR2OUT to enable the second trigger.

V2.2 V3.0 V3.57
MS1/Extra U1 pin 11 JS8 JS8
MS2/Extra JP1 pin 5 JS10 JS10

 

DIYAutoTune has Zeal instructions in their RX-7 writeup. Follow those to connect the Zeal to the 'Squirt board, then follow mine when bringing the Zeal connections out to the DB37. That will keep the pinout of the DB37 consistent with the rest of my writeup.


Yes. If you are using the stock VR conditioner on the V3 board, then you need to set these options and adjust the pots.