I must be missing something here:

S4 NA, V3 board, modded CAS, MSnSE, 029j firmware.

I've went over everything a few times, but I must be missing something.

Everything works fine when "Stim for wheel" is enabled, but i get nothing fom the car when I turn it off (stim for wheel). No RPMs show up in MegaTune, and I don't get any tach bounce while cranking. Should RPMs show up if "Stim for wheel" was enabled, and I spun the CAS by hand? I havent tried that yet, but I will tomorrow.

Where is the best spot to ground the MS and sensors? I'm using the stock location for both on top of the rear rotor housing.

I've went through the FAQ a few times and all of my settings are the same.

 

AS I understand it you should NOT get any tach movement while cranking. The tach signal comes from trailing and the trailing coils do not fire below about 800 RPMs.
This is how mine works, Muythaibxr would be able to confirm this is correct.

 

david is correct on the tach bouncing. In a later version of the firmware I plan on making trailing fire with zero split on crank.

If you get rpms with stim for wheel enabled while spinning the CAS, then the conditioner is working fine. Most likely it's a software config problem. Please post your msq.

 

Your ground location should be fine. Have you tried adjusting R56 ? If you've got too much noise you won't see the CAS signal, make sure your CAS wires are sheilded and grounded at 1 end.

 

from my undewrstanding, in megatune your supposed to see rpms while cranking and on your dash your not?

 

While cranking, I don't get any tach signal to the MS or any dash tach bounce. The 2 pots on the board are spun counterclockwise. They do not quit spinning though, and I don't hear a "click" or feel any resistance while turning.

I'll spin the CAS by hand with Stim for wheel enabled tonight when I get home.

 

you will hear a click if you've spun the potentiometers far enough counterclockwise... you need to keep turning them until you feel them stopping or hear the click. It's best to use a very small screwdriver or something similar that doesn't put a lot of torque on the screw. It makes it easier to tell where the stopper is.

 

and make certain your shield is grounded on 1 end. If its not the R56 adjustment then you may have your cas connected incorrectly.

 

when you do spin the CAS with stim for wheel enabled make sure that you unplug the ignitors and fuel pump if you're doing it in the car.

 

Allrite, I haven't had much time to play with the car until today.

RPMs do not show up in Megatune, if I spin the CAS by hand with Stim for Wheel enabled. They do not show up with it disabled either.

The pots on the MS board are fully turned counterclockwise. I heard the clicks.

I regrounded the harness to a spot on the driver's side fenderwell, and ran another wire from there straight to the negative terminal on the battery.

The stock CAS wiring and the harness that it's mated with is intact. I only touched the CAS wires and the IGN wires and wired them up correctly with he MS. I am using diyautotune's harness for the rest of the wiring. The CAS wires' shielding is grounded.

I haven't heard of a CAS going bad, so I doubt that is my problem, but I may swap in another anyway.

I'll post up my .msq in a bit.


Edit: I just got done looking at the V3 build with pics thread, and visually compared his board with mine. I'm very sure that I followed the directions and installed everything I needed, but his board has items that were not installed. Just to make sure that I have everything I need, here is what I don't have:

U3, R13, R12, D2, D1, C12, C30, C11, R57, and R43

 

thats what happened to mine. make SURE that you gap the sensors correctly too. if you have ever taken them out of the cas and screwed them back in, make sure you use a piece of paper ( to re gap it ) . also, make sure that its got very good magnetism. this is what happened in my situation and i used another cas and it worked.

 

Yeah I was going to swap wheels with anther sensor tonight, but I can't get the shaft out? The rollpin is out and the bottom gear is off. Jeez, I'm starting to feel dumb.

When I removed the teeth on the CAS that is currently in the car, I just left the CAS intact since I was able to get the Dremel in there pretty easily. I blew it out with compressed air afterwards to get rid of all the metal shavings. Maybe I messed something up in the process?

 

i would guess you did.i would suggest getting a newer cas. its easy to disect really. just inscrew everythingfrom the top. and he one single pin at the bottom and there you go. but to change the sensors, all you need to do is simply unscrew them.

 

Well, the CAS is not the problem. I swaped in a known good one, and still the same stuff. I assume it's in the wiring or something in my .msq is messed up. I guess I'll extract the CAS and IGN wires from the driver's side harness so it will be easier to deal with.

Oh, should I be seeing pulsewidths while cranking even if I don't have any tach signal? I'm not seeing any.

 

man, your not using the stock harness?my bad i thaught you was. lol. yeah besure your cas works. lol.

 

Well heres my .msq. I'm goin to bed.

 

I don't have 029i installed, but I opened the msq in 029l, and it looks like you have the '2nd trigger' option turned ON in the trigger wheel page. This needs to be OFF. Otherwise, it's waiting for that second input (which doesn't exist in your install) to reset the tooth counter.

 

Ok, 2nd trigger was on. I switched it off and I still have the same problem.

 

Pop the harness connector (DB37) off your MS. Stick a voltmeter between the tach input pin (24), and whatever ground pin you chose on your connector. Set the meter to measure AC volts, 2V range. You should see about 0.25V spinning the CAS with your fingers, up to around 0.5V at cranking speeds. If you measure voltages in that range, then you know your harness is OK up to the MS.

 

also, did you reset the MS after turning off second trigger?

 

Yes, I did reset the MS



Ok, the pin/stick things on my multimeter wouldn't fit into the DB37, so I tried it where I joined the stock Ne+ and Ne- CAS wires with the harness I bought from diyautotune. I get 0.53V while cranking.. But I still wanted to see if I get the same thing from the DB37. I used a couple pieces of solder wire and wrapped them around the multimeter pin/stick things and stuck the other ends into pin 24 and pin 7. I don't get any reading. I tried to get a reading off of pin 19 instead of 7 to see if maybe I mixed up the harness's ground wires, but I still didn't get anything.

I guess I'll just disassemble this pretty harness and see what is up between where I joined it with my stock wires and the DB37.

 

I HAVE TACH SIGNAL!!!!1

When I cut the wires for the CAS and coils from the diyautotune harness, I wired the stock wires the to the pieces of wire heading away from the MS. That left the wires coming from the MS just terminating. :smackhead:

Anyway, thank all of you for your help and input.

 

Glad it worked out! For probing connectors like that, I use the leg trimmed off a capacitor or resistor, and clamp that to the multi-meter probe (pin stick/thing). Check to be sure all your other inputs are working as well prior to attempting startup. Once all inputs are functioning properly, then crank.