I read and reread alot of the topics covered here on the forum for the Megasquirt, especially the ones about what to get. I know I'm gonna get busted on for asking but what I'm looking for is a straight answer, that's all. I'm going to be installing the Megasquirt I (not II) unassembled kit with the 3.0 board for my 1991 RX7 N/A with the actuators wired open. I will need both fuel and ignition capabilities. What I need to know is:

Do I need the relay board? Is it just extra and just makes installation easier?

Does the kit come with a wire harness or am I supposed to buy all of the wiring, or just order a wire harness?

Do I need to buy a daughterboard, or is it just extra?

Is it easier to just buy the GM Intake air sensor and coolant temp sensor?

Do I need to buy ERROR*s daughterboard? Or is this just extra?

I've read some of the info on the Megasquirt forum here and there over the last few months but I can't seem to retain all the info in my head and what's necessary to build one for a rotary. I remember Muythaibar mentioning in the past about installing extra circuits, capacitors, and resistors and what not to make the trailing ignition work because I will definitely need the trailing plugs to work. What do these extra parts consist of?
I will be ordering all the parts from the GLEN'S GARAGE website and I need to know all of what I should buy for my application from their website as well as in general for the whole install. I will also be buying the stimulator board. I am also aware however about the lm1815 circuit that I will need, but what else?
I know I'm a newbie to Megasquirt but I was hoping that someone can help to shed some light on my situation. So far I'm only experienced in Microtech installs, so this is definitely a step up for me.
Thanks guys.

Brian

 

No you don't need it, in my installs I've stuck with the factory fuse block.

It doesn't come with a harness, you can either get the wires from a place like rs-autosport, or splice into the factory harness... splicing into the factory harness is relatively easy, but it usually ends up looking kinda nasty.

No, it's not easier, because then you have to tap the place where the coolant and air temperature sensors normally go. It's easier to do what I said in the FAQ, and replace the air temp sensors bias resistor with a 1% resistor between 30 and 50Kohms, (just do this while you're building), and then use easytherm to generate new tables for your stock sensors.

You don't HAVE to buy it, but for the things you'll need to control (VDI, Aux) and read (CAS) it makes things a lot easier. You'll need 2 of the spare outputs from it, and one of the lm1815 circuits. You could try to do this in the proto area, but that's going to be a bit tight.

This is covered in the FAQ very thoroughly, but I'll reiterate here.

You need:

3 4.7Kohm pullup resistors installed the way the pic in the FAQ shows.
an extra lm1815 circuit
and the built-in vr sensor conditioner.

 

Thanks alot for all of your help Muythaibxr!!! I'm really looking forward to this project. Hopefully everything goes relatively smoothly.