hopefully you guys can give me some ideas been trying to figure this out for months, let me list some info
im running an ms1 3.0 board
using arroncakes instrustions
the car has been running for 2 1/2 years with no issues what so ever
one day i was warming up my car i gave it a quick rev as it revved up the engined turned off, i tried restarting it but no dice i connected my laptop to see whats going on and it turns out no rpm signal, so the first thing i did was check for continuity in the shielded CAS wires and everything checked out to be good, so next up was to check the ms1, checked my 2nd vr circuit i checked for cold solders or anything disconnected but everything checked out, so i reflowed the solder on the whole boards perhaps there was a cold joint somewhere, i then cleaned the board for residue with 9X% alcohol i for get exactly the content amount but it was the highest i could find, still nothing, so i readjusted the pots nothing, i then swapped out my handmade vr for zeal board. and no luck so i figured maybe its my primary vr circuit so i connected the zeal boards vr1 i followed instructions i found on diyautotune

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Assembling the Zeal Engineering Daughterboard



(ZealDB1-K)

DIYAutoTune.com is proud to bring you the Zeal Engineering Daughterboard to make adding many popular I/O circuits to the MegaSquirt much easier. Ken Culver, one of the authors of the MS2/Extra code, originally developed the Zeal Engineering Daughterboard to make it easier to install MegaSquirt on second generation RX-7s, so it is also called the RX7 Daughtercard. However, it works with many other engines that use the Nippondenso dual wheel system (such as the Toyota DLI ignition), and has many other potential applications beyond RX-7s.

You can use this daughter card with any MegaSquirt version running MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra code. The card fits into the case lid. Here's what circuits you get on the Zeal Engineering Daughterboard.

2 LM1815 VR conditioners optimized for the RX-7 and MS2/Extra
3 general purpose on/off outputs
1 12 volt tachometer driver
1 PWM IAC driver (max current 3 amps)

Here is the bill of materials for the parts we include with this kit.
Part number Description Quantity Locations
P988-ND 0.33UF capacitor 2 C1, C5
BC1019CT-ND 330pF capacitor 2 C2, C6
399-4149-ND .01uF capacitor 2 C3, C4
399-2075-ND .01uF capacitor 1 C7
1N4001DICT-ND General purpose diode 4 D2-D5
PN2222AD26ZCT-ND NPN transistor (1A) 4 Q1-Q4
ZTX688B-ND NPN transistor (3A) 1 Q5
1.0MQBK-ND 1.0M resistor 2 R1, R7
18KQBK-ND 18K resistor 2 R2, R8
82KQBK-ND 82K resistor 2 R3, R5
4.7KQBK-ND 4.7K resistor 2 R4, R6
1.0KQBK-ND 1.0K resistor 5 R9-R12, R14
470QBK-ND 470R resistor 1 R13
330QBK-ND 330R resistor 1 R15
LM1815N-ND Adaptive signal conditioner IC 2 U1. U2
Daughterboard Assembly

Install all resistors in the indicated locations and solder into place.
For RX-7s and most other applications, we have found that the second signal conditioner works better with the ground jumper installed in the two holes next to U2. Install a length of snipped resistor lead to bridge these holes, and solder into place.
Install diodes D2 through D5, with the banded end towards the lower end of the card.
Install C2, C3, C4, and C6.
Install U1 and U2.
Install C7.
Install the Q1 through Q4 transistors, with the flat side on the transistor pointing to the flat side of the silk screen.
Install Q5, again taking care to match its outline to the silk screen.
Install C1 and C5. These capacitors are polarized; the long lead goes in the + hole and the white striped side goes in the other hole.

There are a number of provisions for tuning the second VR conditioner on this board for other sensors besides the RX-7, though determining the best changes often requires an oscilloscope and some trial and error. If you are not getting good results with the default setup, options include substituting different values for C7 and R15, and not installing the jumper in step 2.
General Connections

Once you've got an assembled board, you can install it in the lid and connect it to the main board with lengths of wire. These connection points are used for all installations:
Connection V2.2 V3.0 V3.57
+12V Banded end of D9* S12 S12
+5V JP1 pin 8 S5 S5
GND Unbanded end of D2* SG SG
GND Unbanded end of D3* Proto GND Proto GND

* Normally, D2 and D3 are not installed in a V2.2 board. Use the holes on the empty slot. D9 is normally installed and would require soldering to the diode, although you will want to remove D9 if using the PWM IAC driver.
Using the VR Conditioners

On a V3.0 or V3.57 board, you can use the main board VR conditioner for the primary (NE) input, and the VR2 conditior for the secondary (G) input. On a V2.2 board, you'll need both conditioners. You are best bringing both wires of the sensor all the way to the board, instead of grounding the negative wire. This reduces cross talk noise issues. You can bring the signals in on unused pins on the DB37 (or DB15, in the case of a V3.57 board) and use the appropriate jumper holes on the main board to connect to the conditioner. For example, if you brought the G sensor signal in on pin 25 for the positive terminal and 27 for the negative terminal on a V3.0/V3.57 board, you would connect the lower (positive) VR2 hole to IAC1A, and the upper (negative) hole to IAC1B. Here is where to connect VR2OUT to enable the second trigger.
V2.2 V3.0 V3.57
MS1/Extra U1 pin 11 JS8 JS8
MS2/Extra JP1 pin 5 JS10 JS10

If you wish to use the VR1 circuit, it's a good idea to bring the negative VR wire in on an unused pin. For example, if you are wiring the VR sensor to pin 29, you would connect the negative (lower) VR1 terminal on the Zeal Engineering Daughterboard to IAC2A on a V3.0 or V3.57 board, or X13 on a V2.2 board. On a V2.2 board, remove D5, R10, D8, C12, U4, C11, and R11.(i connected a jumper wire from pin 2 on the db37 on the board)

The upper (positive) VR1 terminal connects to different points depending on the board.

V2.2 board: Unbanded end of D5
V3.0 board: TachSelect
V3.57 board: Pin 2 of JP1

Connect VROUT1 to the following pin:

V2.2 board: Bottom end of R11
V3.0 board; TSEL
V3.57 board: Pin 2 of J1

so basically im completely out of ideas and im ready to throw in the towel, hopefully u guys might have some fresh ideas for me to try, i would really appreciate any help
thanks

 

sounds like the cas went out. did you try a different sensor? it isn't super common but anything can happen.

 

oh yeah i tried that as well but no dice, i didnt stab it tho just connected it and spun it with my hand