I soldered all new and old grounds and cleaned with a wire brush, to make sure a good contact.
I'm thinking of uncovering all the wiring and check for any shorts or damage or maybe just build a new harness from scratch.
The alternator is one of A Zones best, had the same problem with the old alternator.

 

Very odd. If you want to call me I can tell you a few things you can check/adjust internally in the megasquirt. PM me and I'll send you the phone number.

I'm going to have you do a trigger log, and take a screenshot for me to verify the problem is noise. Checking for shorts would be a good thing to do.

Also, could you do the test without the alternator for me anyway if it's not too much trouble?

Anyway, PM me if you want my number, or give me yours, and I'll give you a call and try to help you.

 

I'll bypass the alternator and see what happens.

 

This is a data log with new grounds and the belt off the alt. haven't tried with new grounds and alt belt on. Spark at 1,3,7,9 and 60 deg, -10 deg.

 

alright, so that didn't help.

It will be easier for me to help you with this verbally. I have given you my cell phone number. Next time you work on the car, give me a call, and I'll walk you through getting a tooth log and a trigger log.

It really looks like you've got something creating noise for you though, since all your sensors are showing a lot of jitter and are spiking all over the place.

I'm just going to have to figure out where it's coming from.

 

What on the log told you that there was noise?
David

 

all those rpm spikes, and some spikes on other signals... that points to noise, usually due to poor grounding or a short somewhere, although it can be caused by many things.

Often, if it's that bad, the car won't even start... I'll take another look at your msq while I'm at it.

Ken

 

My MSQ

 

?

 

Yeah, I looked at it, but have been busy with work. I'll respond tonight.

Ken

 

OK, just looking at your settings, In Constants:

PWM Current Limit % should be set to 100, and PWM Time Threshold should be set to 25.5 unless you're directly running low impedance injectors without a resistor pack. If you're trying to directly run your low impedance injectors without a resistor pack, you'll probably have to run extra grounds from the MS to the engine aside from what goes through the harness. These settings could be what's causing the noise I kept talking about.

If you're using your BAC valve (if it's hooked up) you'll want your Idle Control (in More settings) set to "PWM," The values you have set there for the rest should be ok to start.

Your AFR targets seem a bit all over the place... that might be my wideband settings though.

Your outputs don't really need to be on at all, they can both safely be set to off. The settings you have are for an S5 NA for Aux and VDI.

Your spark table Is WAAY off.. I think this is probably why your car runs funny with the 11,1,5,7 settings (or did it run at all?)

Are your secondaries bigger than your primaries?

Those are the only things I can find wrong.... the PWM settings could very well be causing you the noise we talked about... or at least be part of what's causing it.

Ken

 

I changed the settings for PWM, I am running the resistor pack, not sure if the injectors are stock or not, I'll check.



No BAC valve



Set other outputs to 0, both are off.


I would like to see a good spark table to see what the ballpark settings look like. Car will not even hit on 11,1,5,7 settings.


I will check to see if the secondaries are bigger than the primaries.
Will try new settings later tonight or first thing in the morning.

 

I'll find my rx7 settings. Right now they're on my other laptop, which just happens to be in Taiwan with my girlfriend. One of the other guys in Zeal has some older ones (not as well tuned, but reasonable) on his laptop as well, so I'll get those as soon as I can get in touch with him.

Oh, and quick note, the ignition table wouldn't cause you to have problems starting... only once running, so if 11,1,5,7 wouldn't catch, there's something else going on.

Ken

 

and here it is, the only difference between this and the table that's on the other laptop is that I've cut out the bins where there is no change, and done a better job scaling on the rest of the table.

 

I changed the spark table and the other settings and it ran worse. Will not start with 11,1,5,7.

 

yeah, it's going to run worse until you retune fuel... with the settings you had before, it was probably barely opening the injectors. Now that they're fully opening, you're probably way too rich.

 

Thanks.
On the spark table I just copied what you posted, How do you get the tables to generate the proper table? I tried the Generate Table under tools, but didn't get anything close to the one you posted.

 

The generate functions only work for fuel. You have to generate your own table for spark or AFR.

 

Finally got it to crank at 11.1,5,7, after a couple of large back-fires. Barely runs.
Here is the datalog.

 

Alright,

1) You don't seem to have noise on the CLT or MAT signals, which is good news.
2) The backfires just mean you have to readjust the CAS most likely.
3) When you were cranking with 11,1,5,7 settings, was the tachometer in megatune steady?
4) do you have a restrictor in your MAP line?

Ken

 

The tach fluctuated probably from 370-450 rpm's.
No restrictor in map line.

 

OK, if you put a restrictor on your MAP line, that'll clean up your pulse-width a LOT, and probably make the engine run considerably better. The stock MAP line had a restrictor built-in because the rotary has very "bumpy" vacuum. The only problem left to solve will be the noise problem on your VR inputs.

One thing at a time here and we'll get you all fixed up.

What kind of battery or starter are you using for your cranking rpm to be that high? All the rotaries I've worked on have cranked between 250 and 300 rpms.

 

On the right strut tower there is a variable resistor, what is this for?
The reason I asked, this has always been broke, since I've owned the car.

 

A titanium from Advance and a new starter from Auto Zone
The rpm's start at around 180-190 for a second or two then jumps up.

 

I think that's a way to adjust the idle mixture on the stock computer.
You can completely remove it with the megasquirt, as it hooks up to 2F, which we don't connect anything to.