Megasquirt MS3pro timing issue with FFE trigger wheel
05-09-17, 09:30 AM
#1
MS3pro timing issue with FFE trigger wheel
Hey everyone. I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out what is wrong with the timing on my car. I followed Aaron's guide, and tested everything prior to start up. In the output testing, Spark A and B are the leading coilpack, Spark B goes to red, and Spark C goes to the white wire. I set the FFE trigger to the 60* trigger angle in the instructions. When I crank, the car will start, but my RPM gauge reads way off and the streetport now sounds bridgeported. i tried adjusting the trigger angle and setting it down to 20* and the rpm gauge was close, but still seemed very jumpy.
Only thing I can think of is switching the spark C and B? Rotate FFE trigger wheel 90*?
One thing to add, With the car at TDC (Racing beat pulley - 2nd hash from the left) the missing tooth on the trigger wheel was at about 5 o clock pointing downward.
please excuse the exhaust leaks. I am still getting to that part..
attached is the MSQ, and a 2 videos of the car running.
Only thing I can think of is switching the spark C and B? Rotate FFE trigger wheel 90*?
One thing to add, With the car at TDC (Racing beat pulley - 2nd hash from the left) the missing tooth on the trigger wheel was at about 5 o clock pointing downward.
please excuse the exhaust leaks. I am still getting to that part..
attached is the MSQ, and a 2 videos of the car running.
Last edited by driftxsequence; 05-09-17 at 09:35 AM.
05-11-17, 08:05 PM
#6
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/11469%20Pulley.pdf
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10-19-17, 03:33 PM
#9
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I have related question. Stock pulley, FFE hall. There's a Red and Yellow mark on the pulley. With timing locked at 5 degrees and set to 60* per the instructions the pin is just to the right of the Yellow mark with the timing light on L1. Going up to 67 gets the pin almost on the yellow mark, but moving the light to T1 it's still off to the right of both marks. What am I missing?
Yellow = L1 and Red = T1 correct?
Yellow = L1 and Red = T1 correct?
10-23-17, 08:57 AM
#10
Locking the timing to 5* doesn't ignore the fact that you still have a "Split" timing map. T1 and L1 will be different by whatever value you have in the Split map.
Lock timing to 5* and adjust the offset value until the timing light on the L1 matches up with the YELLOW mark.
Lock timing to 5* and adjust the offset value until the timing light on the L1 matches up with the YELLOW mark.
10-23-17, 12:28 PM
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Locking the timing to 5* doesn't ignore the fact that you still have a "Split" timing map. T1 and L1 will be different by whatever value you have in the Split map.
Lock timing to 5* and adjust the offset value until the timing light on the L1 matches up with the YELLOW mark.
Lock timing to 5* and adjust the offset value until the timing light on the L1 matches up with the YELLOW mark.
Interesting, I was doing some more reading and it appears the stock marks are -5 and -20. Locking the timing at -5* with the 60* offset puts the L1 pin right on the yellow mark. However T1 was also right on the yellow mark. I guess I need to check the split table but I have not touched that. It's loaded with the suggested values from Aaron Cake's MS guide.