Megasquirt MS3Pro E-Fan setup
#1
MS3Pro E-Fan setup
Hi guys,
I just completed my MS3Pro installation and wow that car never ran that smoothly in my last 8 years of ownership. I'm still working the map Aaron Cake put on his tutorial since its setup for 550cc's and I run 1000/2200cc's injectors so needless to say that its running damn rich !
The only issue I have right now is that my fan does start up when prompted by the ECU when water temp reach 195 but it never stop afterward even if water temps drop lower than 188. The only way to shut it down is to shut the whole car off.
When I wired the car I totally forgot about the diode for the relay so I went to check and to my surprise the relay already have one built-in. But I also realized that I wired it backward. So I interchanged the pins on the relay so the diode is on correctly but I still have the problem.
So by having the diode backward did I burned the injector H controller inside the ECU ? I unpluged the Injector Out H wire from the relay and with the key ON the wire goes to ground, it is always grounded so the fan is always running.
Any input will be greatly appreciated !
I just completed my MS3Pro installation and wow that car never ran that smoothly in my last 8 years of ownership. I'm still working the map Aaron Cake put on his tutorial since its setup for 550cc's and I run 1000/2200cc's injectors so needless to say that its running damn rich !
The only issue I have right now is that my fan does start up when prompted by the ECU when water temp reach 195 but it never stop afterward even if water temps drop lower than 188. The only way to shut it down is to shut the whole car off.
When I wired the car I totally forgot about the diode for the relay so I went to check and to my surprise the relay already have one built-in. But I also realized that I wired it backward. So I interchanged the pins on the relay so the diode is on correctly but I still have the problem.
So by having the diode backward did I burned the injector H controller inside the ECU ? I unpluged the Injector Out H wire from the relay and with the key ON the wire goes to ground, it is always grounded so the fan is always running.
Any input will be greatly appreciated !
#2
Senior Member
Providing your injectors can handle the low pulsewidths you shouldn't be running overly rich due to the larger injectors, specifying injector size in the Engine Settings should scale the VE map to the injector flow.
As to the fan issue, what is your fan off temp set to? Does it work as expected with the Output Test Mode?
As to the fan issue, what is your fan off temp set to? Does it work as expected with the Output Test Mode?
#4
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
Also,
You can use the Megasquirt-specific Injector Dynamics injector data to help get a better idle and smoother low-pulsewidth injector performance.
Megasquirt : Injector Dynamics Support
You can use the Megasquirt-specific Injector Dynamics injector data to help get a better idle and smoother low-pulsewidth injector performance.
Megasquirt : Injector Dynamics Support
#6
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
Having the wrong injector data (flow rates, dead times, low pulsewidth profile) can make an engine run like **** at idle/cruise, especially with large injectors. When that info isn't correct and its only commanding 1.5ms of fuel, it needs to be getting exactly 1.5ms. If your dead times are just slightly off, it can make for unstable AFRs at idle and very hard to hit a lean target without making the VE table look stupid. It's just one of those things people should set first before they bang their heads against the keyboard trying to fix the fueling.
#7
Thanks for the answers,
With Aaron's map, the ID1000 primaries and deadtime chart from Injector Dynamics the car ran around 10.8:1 to 11.5:1 AFR when I first started it up. When it left cold start enrichment and with minor adjustment I got it to idle at 13.5:1 AFR with ease at around 850rpm.
This weekend I'll investigate the e-fan issue and report my finding !
With Aaron's map, the ID1000 primaries and deadtime chart from Injector Dynamics the car ran around 10.8:1 to 11.5:1 AFR when I first started it up. When it left cold start enrichment and with minor adjustment I got it to idle at 13.5:1 AFR with ease at around 850rpm.
This weekend I'll investigate the e-fan issue and report my finding !
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#8
I'm in the car right now and was playing with the output test mode. The output I use is Injector Out H for fan control.
Since it is an injector control I suppose it ground when activated. But this output is always grounded, my multimeter (in ground test) keep on beeping until I press "on" in the output test mode, then it stop beeping. At least I know that my output "works" but its like reversed ?
Is there a way to reverse the function of the Output ?
Right now its:
ON: No ground
OFF: Grounded
Would require it to be:
ON: Grounded
OFF: No ground
Since it is an injector control I suppose it ground when activated. But this output is always grounded, my multimeter (in ground test) keep on beeping until I press "on" in the output test mode, then it stop beeping. At least I know that my output "works" but its like reversed ?
Is there a way to reverse the function of the Output ?
Right now its:
ON: No ground
OFF: Grounded
Would require it to be:
ON: Grounded
OFF: No ground
#9
Well I guess I burned Injector out H transistor. I tried with Injector out G and in the test mode every thing worked like it should !
Now I got to figure why it does'nt want to start again..I think I just flooded it but tomorrow I'll test injectors and sparks outputs.
Now I got to figure why it does'nt want to start again..I think I just flooded it but tomorrow I'll test injectors and sparks outputs.
#10
Any mod could change the title to ''MS3Pro hard to start and flooding'' ?
So now we are back to day one.
On Aaron's map and with all the settings from his page we were able to start the car with two crank of the starter, it was amazing to see it coming to life that easily. After all the corrections we made to the VE table I was able to make it idle pretty good.
Since it was pretty rich we pulled fuel from the VE table. As Shaniac suggested, we checked the injectors data. We entered all the data I could retrieve from ID for the ID1000 and ID2000.
Last week we tried a cold start, nothing..it was a bit colder than the last time. Also I tried to fiddle with ASE to compensate for all the fuel I pulled out of the VE table. We could'nt get it to start again.
After going througth the setup pages, we got to realize that the Engine and sequential settings tab was'nt set up properly. We had 2600cc engine size and 9.5ms in required fuel for ID1000 injectors. But it started with those settings.
We recalculated required fuel tab and it gave me 8.4ms for 2600cc engine size. Later we changed those settings to 1308cc engine size which gave us 4.2ms.
With all those changes we could'nt get it to start. It was almost catching at some point but nothing more.
Should we be in the ballpark as far as fuel requirement with 4.2ms or would it be too lean to even start ?
Also we tested all of the injectors outputs, all the ignitions outputs and everything checked good.
I attached a small log that show the cranking sequence.
Any help is welcome.
Also we will replace the plugs since they have been flooded a bit.
So now we are back to day one.
On Aaron's map and with all the settings from his page we were able to start the car with two crank of the starter, it was amazing to see it coming to life that easily. After all the corrections we made to the VE table I was able to make it idle pretty good.
Since it was pretty rich we pulled fuel from the VE table. As Shaniac suggested, we checked the injectors data. We entered all the data I could retrieve from ID for the ID1000 and ID2000.
Last week we tried a cold start, nothing..it was a bit colder than the last time. Also I tried to fiddle with ASE to compensate for all the fuel I pulled out of the VE table. We could'nt get it to start again.
After going througth the setup pages, we got to realize that the Engine and sequential settings tab was'nt set up properly. We had 2600cc engine size and 9.5ms in required fuel for ID1000 injectors. But it started with those settings.
We recalculated required fuel tab and it gave me 8.4ms for 2600cc engine size. Later we changed those settings to 1308cc engine size which gave us 4.2ms.
With all those changes we could'nt get it to start. It was almost catching at some point but nothing more.
Should we be in the ballpark as far as fuel requirement with 4.2ms or would it be too lean to even start ?
Also we tested all of the injectors outputs, all the ignitions outputs and everything checked good.
I attached a small log that show the cranking sequence.
Any help is welcome.
Also we will replace the plugs since they have been flooded a bit.
#12
Old [Sch|F]ool
I agree. The point of getting the injector settings correct is that you should be able to change the injectors, alter the injector constants to suit, and it will run correctly with no additional tuning.
One thing I found is important if you are using factory wiring instead of all new with relays to the battery, is to actually measure the voltage going to the injectors. There is a voltage compensation map in the settings. I've seen as much as a whole volt difference between internal voltage and voltage at the injectors.
One thing I found is important if you are using factory wiring instead of all new with relays to the battery, is to actually measure the voltage going to the injectors. There is a voltage compensation map in the settings. I've seen as much as a whole volt difference between internal voltage and voltage at the injectors.