Ok so my car is an s5, I'm running both fuel and spark and have followed Aarons write up to the T. I am running a stock CAS with the second VR conditioning circuit. I am using 3.1.0 firmware. All of my settings are as recommended by Aarons write up but I am attaching my MSQ just in case. I have checked all my wiring and components about three times. Still no RPM signal.

My question is this: what is the likely hood of getting a bad pot? With the one that is closer to the heat sink, when i turn it CCW it never clicks like the other one does. I know that they are the same part so this doesn't make any sense to me.

My other question is: at first I had forgotten to switch the jumpers back from the hall/optical circuit after testing with the jimstim. the first couple times I tried to start the car it was jumpered for this circuit instead of VR, is it possible i burnt something up?

Other than this I have no idea. I do not have access to an oscilloscope but I guess i will probably get frustrated enough at somepoint to buy one.

I have checked and tested everything that I could think of (with the help of hours and hours of searching) Please help.

Thanks, Dan

 

looks like my MSQ didnt attach, I will try to post it again after work.

 

after much frustration I gave up on the second VR circuit and modified the CAS running 12-1 and have had a strong rpm signal ever since... Since then I have been unnable to consistently get spark or fuel. I have had both at one point or another but never both at the same time. They essentially come and go as they please. What would cause the unit to be so irrattic?

At first I had no spark or fuel and then the spark started working on its own so I focussed on trying to get the injectors to fire. I figured out that it would not fire the primaries but would fire the secondaries just fine. I wanted to see if the car would run on the secondaries alone so that i could limp it to my buddies garage so I set the staging threshold to 1 rpm, the Primary injector size to 1cc and switched the connectors from the secondary injectors to the primaries trying to trick the car into running on the secondaries alone. After trying to start it I checked fuel and spark again and it didn't have either.

I am at a loss for what might be going on and I can't diagnose something that is consantly changing. Please someone help. I need to get this thing running as soon as possible.

 

why does it say invalid file everytime I try to attach an MSQ?

 

just reflashed the firmware and nothing changed, The LEDs on the unit flash like they should the output but the signal never leaves the megasquirt (doesn't fire injectors or coils on the car or when hooked up to the stim. they will work for a little while and then go away again.

 

Are you getting sync loss? Post a datalog?

Ken

 

the problem is not occuring during a sync loss although I do occcasionally get a sync loss if i rapidly cycle the rpm on the stim. The problem is not intermittent while the unit is going, it just seams to decide whether it wants to work or not when you fire it up, and it decides not to work more often than not. I am trying to upload a datalog and an MSQ but I can't get either to attach to a post and the datalog doesn't even seem to save. Also is there anything in particular i should do during the data log? leave it on a steady RPM? should i pull a composite or one of the other types? sorry for my ignorance but i spend every spare second searching so it will get better.

 

UPDATE... figured out what the problem was, the Second VR circuit which I had already abandoned for a modded CAS was still interferring with the CPU... don't know exactly why, or what was happening but i took the chip out of the second VR circuit and cut all the wires leading to or from the circuit and the squirt started acting just like it should.

Next problem... I am using the VE map from Aaron Cake's write up and it seems to be way to rich even for an innitial start. When i start it and brign the RPMs up it is running at about a 10.5 afr... the engine dies after 20 or 30 seconds and i'm assuming it is flooding out. It after this innitial attempt it back fires and will not start. What could i be doing wrong? Tried pulling fuel out of the map to no avail. Does anyone have another map I could try? Any advice would be greatly appriciated. I am anxious to get started tuning.

 

You have to zip the file first.

 

Ok thank you, I'll try that today so I can finally get my msq up

 

Heres what i have been trying...

 

Dont know if this will help because its not very long but maybe you can see something in it that I am missing. Please, any advice will be greatly appreciated, I have no idea where to go from here.

 

Anyone have any ideas or looked at the info? Please give me any advice you can give, if I don't get it running soon its going to get towed.

 

I've not had time to take a look (been out of town most of the last week without my laptop). I should have time in the next couple of evenings.

Ken

 

You need to read up on flood clear mode. Most of your cranking time the throttle is open wide enough to activate flood clear mode = no fuel.

You have a reset at 1023 seconds, so you must have an electrical noise issue.

You also have sync losses near the end of the log. Are you sure that your input ignition capture should be falling edge? I think rising edge is correct if you have it wired correctly.

Have you checked your ignition timing with a strobe?

 

since I'm limited to what I can share at the moment, I can say that since I looked at Aaron's settings, I noticed that they are for older firmware. From the DIYAutotune, website, you need to input their recommended settings. Yes, it was supposed to be rising edge with the 2nd VR conditioner. I will see if I can post up the links that I used, or you can take a look at my msq I posted up in a thread I started just the other day. In my case, the car runs but I may have to use the noise filtering option - which I have to study up on how to properly set up.

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...zda_fc_rx7.htm

 

Thank you to everyone who has taken a look so far, and Ken that would be awesome if you can find time.

Eagle7, I am familiar with flood clear, the reason I was in it so much was because on previous attempts the engine would flood out rather quickly and backfire when it began to start. Sometimes cycling between partial and full throttle to engage and dissengage the flood clear was the only way to get it to start up but I probably am relying on it to much... I shouldn't have to right?

I was unaware of the reset at 1023, would it be worth it for me to mess with the noise filtering settings at this point or should I wait until I get it started?

The sync losses at the end of the log are do to the battery getting low and not keeping it spinning fast enough. I get sync losses when the battery is unnable to spin it at more than about 150 rpms... I assumed this was normal and just caused by the battery getting week and the motor moving slow (I do have a good battery in the car and I always hook it up to jumpers before attempts the constant cranking and trials has just been taking its toll)

2Lucky2tha7,
I will definitely take a look at your msq and the recommendations at DIYautotune. I hadn't looked at their recommendations because I was following Aaron's writup so closely. In your car are you running the second VR or a modified CAS?

Thanks again for your time, I really need this thing to run

 

oh and eagle7, I have not checked the timing yet becuase I have not been able to keep it running for more than about 30 seconds, I have been thinking about pulling the plugs so that it will spin the motor over a little faster and checking it on a crank but I wasn't sure if this would give me an accurate reading and i didn't want to throw myself further off. Should i go ahead and give it a try or is it likely to throw me further off?

 

I don't think a reset can be caused by your VR wheel, so the noise filtering you can configure there will probably not help. Reset is more of a general power/ground quality issue or massive EMI noise.

If you don't know whether your plugs are firing at the correct time, yes, I think checking that before a start attempt is prudent. I don't know why it would lead you astray.

 

ok I will check that next... just follow the recommendations given in Aarons write up for adjusting the base timing. Set it to a fixed angle of -5?

 

I am running the 2nd VR with a stock CAS. Also, make sure your grounds are all proper. As an example, I have pins 7-12 grounded at the engine block now. Absolutely NOTHING else is touching these wires or the terminal where it is bolted down onto the rotor housing. I have pins 18 & 19 specifically wired for the sensor grounds, and ONLY the sensor grounds.

 

UPDATE. Got the car to a place where its not going to get towed and found some time to get under the hood.

Attempting to check timing with the engine cranking didn't provide me much information so i restabbed the CAS according to instructions I found on the forums. I am stabbed three teeth past the missing tooth with a tooth #1 angle of 60 degrees.

I was able to get it to run for about 30 seconds and got a good datalog.

Not sure why it is dying at the end. Even with steady throttle trying to keep the RPMs up it loses RPM and dies. Can anyone give me a better idea of why it is giving up?

Here is the datalog and the Msq used for the attempt.

Thank you.

 

heres the msq

Thanks again.

 

I'm just browsing through, but I am noticing a few things and I will state my suggestions here:
-I noticed that you have different lag factors
-Your ignition map is too agressive around idle. try -5 from 40-60 kpa in the 500-1000 rpm bins (this will need adjusting)
-you may need to add a little more fuel in the idle areas
-bring your idle afr's down to 13.0 for now
-Ignition input capture and spark output I cannot comment on at the moment as I do not know what the modded cas requires.
-Your afterstart enrichments are all screwy and must be fixed or your car will keep dying
-warmup enrichment curve needs to be fixed. You have the last bin at 110%. It needs to be 100%. Alter your points so that you can use more of the bins that get used. (ex: 165, 160, 130, 100, 80, 60, 40, 20, 0, -20)
-cannot comment on idle control - never used it before
-accel enrichment wizard will need to be adjusted
-overrun fuel cut settings are different from what I normally see
-staged injection settings are missing 2 parameters

***As for your datalog, you're not registering any vacuum while it's running, your tps has not been calibrated, etc.
You have a bad vacuum source. Do not T it off anywhere and make sure it is a proper spot. Calibrate your sensors too in TunerStudio.

 

2Lucky2tha7,
Thank you for your input, I feel like an idiot for not thinking more about it not pulling vacuum while running, I even acknowledged it and then brushed it off. My TPS has been calibrated but is always quite irratic. Each time it is in a slightly different spot... I have never been able to get a true 0-100 sweep out of it, any suggestions?