smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

^

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

okie dokie... i got this bolt hole tapped and the fixed up. the vacuum leak is taken care of and oh my god does this thing run smoother. havent had a chance to study the noise filter option. i just did though, so tomorrow, i will try out this noise filter. 75 was my setting throughout. i datalogged and revved up today to about 3000, my staging point, and got lean at this point. so i have to richen up a little too. where my idle kpa was like 60-70 before, now i see as low as 29kpa. so yay!!!

muythaibxr

Finally! Nice to hear!

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

so here is an update. i got my fan all hooked up so cooling is not really an issue anymore. i also did they noise filter set at 75 for a while and then i bumped it up to 80 because i was still missing randomly. that helped but she was still missing but less often and a little softer.

so i started going through the fuel table and playing with the afrs. then i decide to do the afr table and autotune. i think i messed up. im posting a screen shot of the period where i autotuned. in that area i had the table set up for 12.5-12.0. but when i set the authority and autotuned, the afrs where up in the 14-16.0 range. you can see that in the screen shot. i was scared! i probably messed up my settings. i will research it on here and try to find out some details.

my turbo almost melted my omp lines. bummer.

using autotune seemed like the easiest way to tune this up. i mean to go through all the bins is hard. getting the higher loads, the rpms rev too fast to stop if the afr rises.

ill read up on the afr and ego and whatnot, but advise would be cool to. should i try taking up my noise filter a little higher... say, 90usec?

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

im a retard

muythaibxr

the remaining misses that are soft may just mean you need to adjust timing/fuel.

I recommend NOT using autotune on boosted engines... you should manually tune as it's much safer...

Rev up and boost to where you want to go, then get off the gas if the AFR's too high, and manually richen that area and try again.

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i figured i needed to do some spark tuning. im not using any boost yet. its not even plumbed up. i was just going to try and tune it with out boost and go through inspection with out boost.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i been doing some research, and looking at bdc's spark maps. considering i have an n/a block with no aux sleeves, high compression rotors, turbo'd, should i be looking at timing around a partial bridgeport t2 throughout?

if there are no sleeves the aux ports are always open, thus creating the super extended port design, that i guess would be like a huge port or bridgeport, right?

i figured by looking at bdcs maps he posted, i would classify more in the half bridge than the extended i guess. there is a huge difference between the two, so i would like to be sure. what i have now looks more like the extended port advance map he had up. and my car is missing a little, so i think this could have something to do with it. im thinking i need quite a bit more advance under lower loads. but i dont know enough about port shapes and sizes to know how to compare to my setup. im using about 10* at idle, and i know any less makes it hard to start. this could be why the motor kicks back sometimes when im trying to startup.

gross polluter

Sort of the opposite. Bridgeports open way early, no aux sleeves close way late.

BDC's extended port map is a good starting point, in my opinion.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

mmm. yeah. thats true. i guess my map is really conservative then. i think im going to try to add some timing and see if my miss clears up.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

well no luck with that. i tuned afrs down to about 13.0 at idle and the rpm slowed down a little. thats good. its still trying to idle at like 1700 when warm. im still smoking a lot. but its not blue smoke or white smoke. its like grey. i guess thats just cuz there is still a lot of fuel in the exhaust which could be from poor timing, right? i tried playing with the idle advance bins and really didnt see any diff. i wish i had an egt. i want to wait for dyno time to get one.

i really need some advice. my instinct really wants to attribute my miss to ignition advance but im not sure. because of this miss, my afrs are a little jumpy. it idles within .2+/- but when it misses, it will move as much as .5.

maybe i should repost this in the singles section.

muythaibxr

Have you verified your timing with a timing light?

It could be timing related if the timing is not adjusted properly (meaning the values in the table are not the actual timing due to the CAS being misadjusted).

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

yeah i did that. and even bought a new timing light too, just to be sure. my old one was a old old craftsman. so i went out and got a new one that looks like its from star trek. im gonna replace my plugs and wires in a few. i just did that like 5 gallons of fuel ago and it made all the difference in the world when i was trying to keep her running. i may have fouled these too while i was playing with the afr. and while im at it i will just have to verify my trailing is working too. is there a way to check and see if i have the trailing selector backwards? from what ive read, we can get a miss or weak power from no trailing.

muythaibxr

Nah, trailing should not cause a loss of power. Wired wrong it can cause knock and other odd problems though.

I've run engines with leading only no problem with no missing and no noticable loss of power. (A while back Mike Robert did some dyno testing and found that trailing makes almost no difference to power as well).

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok. just finished up my fan circuit too. gonna go try that. auto store had to order me some plug wires, so all i got was new plugs. gonna go try it right now.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

well i guess i set up the fan control wrong. no biggie.

i still got the miss too, even after new plugs. i adjusted the spark +5 and -5 at idle bin and no change. and whats weird is that my afrs were a little richer today too. i think because it seemed to be missing more. and talk about smoking. smoke out the ***. stinky too, like burnt rubber or something. i dont know what else to do about this miss. but it wont do, the afrs are too jumpy missing like it is.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

after some more reading, i think i def need to lean out, a lot. im starting with 11.5 afr and trying to tune to 13.0. but in new light, i need to go closer to stoich if not past. im smoking fuel and its missing and the motor is bucking when she misses. im gonna set my timing back to about 10-15 at idle. and lean this damn fuel out. might be why she wants to idle between 1500-2000. she was smoking so bad today i was choking on it. and couldnt see my hood anymore.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

also got a question about the fan output setup.. what port do i choose and is the hysteris thing how many unit it takes to turn off? what up with the trigger and power value choice too? i tried a couple things today and got no fan. i ran from js0 to resistor to transistor(grounded) run to spr1(CANH). that should be pin3 on the db37. so i ran that to my relay with the diode going from 12v to stripe and then to the signal ground.

muythaibxr

So you had it set up so the transistor was grounding the relay then...

Which output port did you choose in the MS settings?

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok ok. i grounded the transistor on the emitter, ran the resistor from js0 to the base, and the collector to spr1. i ran pin3 to coilground of the relay. put the diode on the coilground and the stripe end went on the 12v that supplied the coil and switch of the relay. the switch portion of the relay supplied voltage to the fan and i grounded it on the chassis.

i think the output port i chose was port 6? sorry i dont have my laptop here. there were several, and none said fan, like the iac, and knock i think. nothing obvious anyway.

i couldnt find any fan settings in this window on the megamanual or msextra site.

muythaibxr

There aren't any fan settings, you just set up a spare output of your choice to trigger a relay that turns on the fan...

Basically have it turn on at something like 190 degrees, and turn off at 176.

I do need to know for sure which output you chose to wire to on the MS, and which you selected in software in order to help you though, other than that I think your wiring sounds right (if I understood what you said correctly)

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i used pt6/iac1 on settings. i used pin3 on db37 for the spr1 pin hole. i thought they connected.

here is the settings screenshot

muythaibxr

One problem... if you wired to one of the IAC1 pins on the MS, then you actually have to use IAC2 in the software. This is a MegaTune bug so there's nothing we can do about it really.

Ken

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i assume you mean iac1a or iac1b, i saw that thread where the were inverted or something. are the spr pins on the board in that same boat. like i said i used spr1. should i try the iac2 setting in the software for this too?

muythaibxr

No, I mean IAC1 vs IAC2... if you wire to IAC1a or 1b for example, you should use the IAC2 settings.

Ken