so I'm starting the install today. does anyone have some diagrams to wire in my ignition module? do I need the vr conditioners?

I'll be using the ms1 v2.2 board for starters, if I can get it to work fine I'll buy the better version. just trying this cause I have one laying around and my stock ecu took a dump.

 

ok here is the update. Im using the Peter farell connector so I don't have to hack up my stock harness, I'm using the msnextra doughter card( old version) for the vr conditioners. right now I'm modifying the ms to set it up for rotary engines.

two questions.
1 do I need to change the bias resistor to use stock air temp or coolant temp
2 is the ignitor the same concept as the second gen or will I need to run 2nd gen coils

I have pictures but I don't know how to post from iPhone I'll upload them later with my Mac book

 

The ignitor should be directly supported. You will need the VR conditioners. I would *strongly* recommend the MS3 for use with that car. MS1 will run it but MS3 (or even ms2) on a v3 board are much more robust.

Ken

 

ok I'm almost ready to install in my car. does anyone have a good fuel and ignition timing map to start this baby. I have stock 550 and 850 setup. also muthaiboxr will I run the ignitor with the 2nd gen settings ? I know the ms3 is better but right now this is all I have if it works even decent I will purchase the ms3. and how about the bias resistor?

 

here are some pics of the materials im using

 

all done

 

ok is in the car and everything is working right I just can't figure out the trigger position settings due to my fixed crank sensors and I don't have someone to crank while I check with timing light.
I'm only running the leading coil for now until I figure this out. other than that I'm getting rpm and injection. anyone know what is a good pulsewith for cranking?

 

For cranking PW, just keep increasing it until it catches. Make sure to flood clear between each attempt.

As far as trigger settings, I believe 11,1,5,7 with a 65 degree trigger angle should work, but i have not used ms1 in a really long time.

You should use FD mode for trailing.

Ken

 

got it to start. but it won't stay running. I noticed the timing moves around to much even when I set it to zero.

 

Usually if it won't stay running, that means you need more fuel. Try increasing req fuel.

Ken

 

i dont know, im not to happy with the timing issue, i cant see the timing mark anywhere near the pointer even if i set my fixed timing to 0 or 5. im not sure im getting the right spark output, but it starts up every time, i get a loud backfire every now and then when i crank the motor. i did a log and this is what i got

 

Are you using trigger return or time-based for cranking timing?

also, I have seen what you describe when you put the timing light on the rear rotor's spark plug wire (even though it is wasted spark). Also, I am not sure if this is the case with the FD, but the FC's timing mark is at -5, not 0 or 5.

Finally, MS3 or at least MS2 would be much better timing wise. They use an entirely different codebase that does not include any code from MS1 and an ignition timing algorithm that uses every tooth on your trigger wheel to calculate timing instead of using special "trigger" teeth.

Ken

 

trigger return. this morning it dint start just backfires loud. I starting to believe something wrong with my cas input. any way to log the input from cas?

 

Not in MS1. MS2 and MS3 have the composite logger which gives you an oscilliscope-like view of the signal.

If you are having trouble I would suggest as a first step grounding pin 14 on both lm1815 chips.

Ken

 

MS1 does have the tooth logger but it has been so long since I used MS1 that I can't remember for sure.

Ken

 

your were right ken, i had the wrong lead to my timing light, any way i used anther peter farrell harness to run stock ecu but control the fuel only just to make sure that the timing was the problem. it worked fine with the ms as fuel controller started right up and revs clean.

the reason i was trying to run the ms as fuel and spark is because my stock ecu wont rev clean, it boggs down when i snap the throttle and dies, i can only touch the throttle to rev the engine and it will rev fine. and its not my tps or map, tested the voltages and made sure the wires were not broken, my ms reads all the sensors right since im using the stock harness.

i will continue to test my ignition setup, i will bench test with a s4 cas sensor.

by the way, i cant belive the peter farrell ecu intercepts the leading coil signal and modifies it but not the trailling signals, wont that make the trailling fire real offset to the leading?

 

finally got back to working on my ms setup, I ran new individual crank sensor wires with shielded loom and ground straps. hopefully I won't get any noise, also rewired the ms and cleaned it out a bit. will post some results here later tonight

 

well no luck yet. but I figured out that the crank sensors are noisy. when they are plugged in I get noise and any voltage drop in the battery it picks it up( like pressing on the brake) so I unplugged the crank sensor and installed a second gen cas and it works fine. so what I did was installed a 4.7 k resistor across the fd crank sensor and it worked??? any idea why the fd crank sensor produce noise when plugged in

 

How exactly is the MS grounded? How are the VR- wires connected to your VR circuits?

Ken

 

i have the grounds on the vr sensors straight to the msextra board, the megasquirt is grounded straight to the battery and also to the engine. finally got it to run right, i added a 4.7k resistor between both vr- and vr+ right at the msextra board and it cleaned the signal. car is now working fine, checked the timing with the fixed angle at 5 and this is what i ended up setting the trigger angle at.

trigger A 11
trigger return 1
trigger B 5
trigger return 7

trigger angle 65
trigger angle addition 22.5

how about the dwell settings for the fd ignitor? is that the same as the 2nd gen?

 

Can't help you on the dwell settings. I'd need one locally that I could put a scope on and check.

You shouldn't ground the MS directly to the battery. It should be grounded to the engine, and the engine should be grounded to the chassis, and the chassis should be grounded to the battery.

Grounding the MS to the battery AND the chassis or the engine can cause ground loops, which can cause odd issues.

Ken

 

well I'll try to figure out how to determine those, I'll ground the ms to the motor only. also I disassembled the stock ecu and found a 58k resistor across ve- and ve+ also a 333 cap, I figure that's how the stock ecu supress the noise??? anyways I will check on my scope and increase the resistor value at the input of the vr from the 1k I installed.

 

interesting