Megasquirt Mods to the V3.0 board...
Mods to the V3.0 board...
I have read the FAQ section and it left me very confused. do i need to use the dual lm1815 setup? What is the deal with the pull up resistors on the led's?
Can some one explane all the mods i need to do step by step?
Can some one explane all the mods i need to do step by step?
The FAQ explains the mods you need to do step by step.
If you have a v3 board, you can either cut 2 teeth from the CAS, or build a second VR conditioner for the "G" signal from the CAS, then you don't have to cut teeth from the CAS.
the pullup resistors are there because you must use those to signal your ignitors. You run wires from the negative leads of the LEDs with pullups to spare pins on the MS, and then run wires from there to your ignitors.
If you have a v3 board, you can either cut 2 teeth from the CAS, or build a second VR conditioner for the "G" signal from the CAS, then you don't have to cut teeth from the CAS.
the pullup resistors are there because you must use those to signal your ignitors. You run wires from the negative leads of the LEDs with pullups to spare pins on the MS, and then run wires from there to your ignitors.
Originally Posted by muythaibxr
The FAQ explains the mods you need to do step by step.
If you have a v3 board, you can either cut 2 teeth from the CAS, or build a second VR conditioner for the "G" signal from the CAS, then you don't have to cut teeth from the CAS.
the pullup resistors are there because you must use those to signal your ignitors. You run wires from the negative leads of the LEDs with pullups to spare pins on the MS, and then run wires from there to your ignitors.
If you have a v3 board, you can either cut 2 teeth from the CAS, or build a second VR conditioner for the "G" signal from the CAS, then you don't have to cut teeth from the CAS.
the pullup resistors are there because you must use those to signal your ignitors. You run wires from the negative leads of the LEDs with pullups to spare pins on the MS, and then run wires from there to your ignitors.
I would talk to the guy that runs this place. He has setup MS 3.0 for rotaries. He quoted around 360-370 with the RS Auto harness.
http://www.kingefi.com/catalog/
http://www.kingefi.com/catalog/
Ok, i was reading other threads. You said you would like to redo the FAQ section. My major hump is that i dont understand the second VR circuit. I dont want to cut any teeth off of my cas mainly because i read it may cause missfires. And I dont have a clue what two teeth to cut off. The only thing I changed on my board is the R4 resistor for the manifold air temp. I need a better understanding of what i need to do to make this unit work with the stock cas. I was studying the dual VR circuit and i understand it may be made in the proto area but have no idea what to hook it up to, same with the resistors on the led's, i have no idea why i need to do it or what to use to do it.
It would be cool if you wrote something just like the megamanual the steps to make these mods. keep in mind, i'm a mechanic, not an electronics tech. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It would be cool if you wrote something just like the megamanual the steps to make these mods. keep in mind, i'm a mechanic, not an electronics tech. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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quasar,
Have you read this thread?
https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/v3-0-ms-build-pics-534544/
Have you read this thread?
https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/v3-0-ms-build-pics-534544/
what exactly are pullup resistors? is that an actual resistor type or is it just called that because of its purpose?
also is this something you have to do to control ignition or is it only when controling rx7 ignition, if the later what is different about the rx7 ignition that requires these?
also is this something you have to do to control ignition or is it only when controling rx7 ignition, if the later what is different about the rx7 ignition that requires these?
Yes, I have read that thread. This is what it comes down to... I dont want to cut anything on my stock CAS. I'm using the V3.0 board with the on board VR sensor conditioner. Do i need to build the second VR sensor conditioner in the proto area to achive my goal? Do i need to install the pull up resistor setup?
I'm looking at this error board you mentioned in the faq. glens garage has two of them, do i need this EGT amplifier? What is the EGT to begin with? Exhaust Gass Temprature?
Will this help me out? glens garage
Will this help me out? glens garage
I just read another post refering to the electric fan. You recomended to build the linked circuit in the proto area, that's alot going on in that small section. I'm leaning more and more to the error board. I think i understand what your trying to say in the faq section but a few questions pop up, I want the boost controle and electric fan functions. I was going to use one of the solonoids from that metal pipe mess i took off as the boost controler interface with the turbo. Do i need to do anything specail or can the error card handel that?
As you can tell i work the night shift and spend moste of my time working on my stuff after work. I see you are productive on the forum around 2:30 pm so i'll try to get on to see what you have to say. I need to get tires for my FB today so i need to stay up, almoste blew a tire on the way home tonight.
As you can tell i work the night shift and spend moste of my time working on my stuff after work. I see you are productive on the forum around 2:30 pm so i'll try to get on to see what you have to say. I need to get tires for my FB today so i need to stay up, almoste blew a tire on the way home tonight.
If you really want to keep the stock CAS, then add the second LM1815 circuit in the proto area. Forget about all the other goodies (boost control, efan, etc) for now. You can run wires in your harness for these features, but focus on the basics first. Once it's installed, tuned, and working properly, then start thinking about adding other features.
BTW, I found the assembly of the error* daughterboard more difficult than MS due to the extremely compact layout - lots of opportunities for solder bridges.
BTW, I found the assembly of the error* daughterboard more difficult than MS due to the extremely compact layout - lots of opportunities for solder bridges.
Ok renns, my only question for now would be the LM1815 chip. Glens Garage has one but it is labled as LM1815N. Is this the same chip? Will it work for what i need to do?
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/l...fier-p-45.html
http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/l...fier-p-45.html
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demetlaw
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