So I'm megasquirting my 10AE. In this thread I'll be asking questions when I get confused/lost/whatever... Basically I'm a total MS noob and am probably going to have tons of questions.. actually I've got a few questions right now allready but first here's the car/setup for future refrence:

1988 FC Turbo
Megasquirt V3 board/msns/3 bar MAP built by Roger Enns (thanks roger!)
Half-Bridgeported S5 13BT - big exhaust ports too, agressively street ported primaries and bridged secondaries.
Greddy VSPL FMIC
Greddy TD07-25A
Panspeed Tubular manifold
3" exhaust
Aeromotive FPR, stock fuel rails run in parallel instead of in series
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
720cc primary injectors/1680cc secondary injectors
Relocated battery (see thread in 2nd gen forum) with 1/0AWG cables
stock coils/spark system, modded Cas 2 teeth removed
AEM Wideband, SRT4 boost gauge
car has ABS, A/C and P/S, cruise and etc - fully loaded - I haven't removed any of it yet and don't intend to at this time!
lots of other stuff too but nothing that should affect the EMS.

I'll be getting the ems in on sunday and hope to have the car running sometime next week.

here's a pic of the engine bay right now.. still tons of work left!

 

nice setup. I don't know of anyone running a setup with as much potential hp as you are so should be fun. We should be able to help you along the way. The only peice of advice I'll offer at this stage is give yourself twice as much time to get this done that you currently think you need and you'll be alot less stressed

what are you rwhp goals for this build ? I'm gussing you've either used the studd kit or you've had it dowelled ?

 

I'm using S5 stuff and while I haven't done any reinforcing to the block I'll probably not be making the power levels that require pinning or better studs.. I guess we'll see though.

Yeah everything seems to take twice as long as I want it to!

I'm even having one hell of a time just pulling the stock engine harness.

 

I'd be guessing your gonna hit 350 easy with your setup your gonna gonna have to be very careful while your tuning.

 

Ive swapped from the MS to stock harness in 45 min. when I had to get it running againg for school the next day

 

I was making nearly that much last year on a t04b and stock ports, so I hope to be making a bit more

but we'll see.
I've got the wideband and once I get it mostly tuned I'll hit a dyno to do the fine tuning.

yeah I found a few harness connectors that I'd missed, I guess once I pick up my MS/harness tomorrow I'm going to have a ton of questions as to what connects where to drive the coils/tach inputs/etc/etc!

 

Good luck on you project. You've got alot of knowledgeable people on here that are very helpful.

 

k, I got the megasquirt back from renns today, roger, wow, you're a pro. The harness is awesome.. now that I see it built I'm sure I could've but it wouldn't look as good \

I think I need to reroute a wire or two in it though. Since my battery is in the back anyways, I want to have the fuel pump relay back there so I'm going to have to route the wire back there.

I think I'm going to remove the a/c and p/s tonight, I never use them anyways and they're both really in the way. I suppose it would've been easier if I had done it BEFORE putting the motor in but hey, what can ya do? lol

Tomorrow I'm going to start wiring up all the various connections to the MS - which is probably when I'm going to have a thousand questions! Everything is labelled on my harness (thanks roger!) but I'm still unsure of what to connect in some cases. I've got an FSM so hopefully I can find the wires in the car to connect to (under the dash) for the coils, power, etc.

 

Terrh,

Glad you are happy with the setup. I ran your box with the CAS and FC coil packs, and everything works. Take your time, do a top-notch job of the wiring, and you should be all set from an install standpoint. Tuning is another matter, as your setup is more agressive than any other MS rotary I'm aware of. I've got a base map in there that should start, and maybe even result in a drivable car, off-boost at least.

For the record, I still think everyone should build their own MS, at least the first one. You are lucky you caught me at a weak moment!

 

ok!

So I'm FINALLY able to wire it. I've got my p/s and a/c out last night (too in the way for the FMIC piping)..

A few questions!

All the wiring seems pretty straightforeward except for the ignition. Do I hook it straight to the coil, or what connector under the dash do I hook it to? the two trailing and 1 leading wire. Obviously the CAS wires will go straight to the CAS (but now that I think about it, what wire is NE+ and what is NE-? I want to do this right the first time


I've got a DSM resistor pack, it has 5 wires.. 1 ground and 4 inputs, I guess. I'm running all low-imp injectors.
Wiring goes as follows, right: ECU - injector - resistor pack (to ground from there).

if anyone has megasquirted an FC and knows what wires I hook to what to make the stock windshield wiper and cruise control still work (since they're a part of the engine harness) - if not I'll just take that part of the harness apart and trace the leads to the connectors


OK, thanks! Going to pick up some solder and heatshrink tubing now

 

Don't wire straight to the coil, wire to the ignitor.

For leading, you'll want to wire to the red or faded red wire (the tan or faded yellow wire is +12v).

For trailing I'd have to go back and look in my notes.

Ken

 

Check the FSM, and read the FAQ posted by Ken right here in this forum. It answers these questions directly.
NO! The resistor pack is used to provide power to each of the injectors. The wire you call a 'ground' is actually connected to switched 12vdc. This wire is then split inside the pack to run through four parallel resistors, each of which is used to power one injector.

 

good catch renns, I stopped reading his post after the ignition question.

Ken

 

so how do I wire the resistor pack then?

 

As Roger stated: "The resistor pack is used to provide power to each of the injectors. The wire you call a 'ground' is actually connected to switched 12vdc. This wire is then split inside the pack to run through four parallel resistors, each of which is used to power one injector." The single wire on the pack gets 12v + from a switched source. I use the fuel pump relay, any 12v switched that can handle another 5 amps or so will owrk fine. Each injector receives one of the set of 4 wires remaining. The MS does not provide power to the injector, it provides ground paths to the injectors for the appropriate injection time allowing current to flow through them and thus fuel.

-Mike

 

OH ok then.

So the wiring goes MS - injectors - resistor box - +12V instead of -12V.
thanks mike

When I posted that yesterday I was still under the assumption that the MS was providing power and couldn't figure out how the hell that resistor box could be wired in with it if it only had 5 wires! But now I see.

I found the CAS writeup too, my wiring /should/ be done today if everything co-operates.. may even have it fired up tonight!

 

haha, I am not going to have it running for at least another 4-5 days.. waiting on fuel fittings. A few AN fittings for my Aeromotive FPR and a Y-Block to feed the fuel rails. This project is getting expensive, I can't believe how much fittings cost!


I got the megasquirt fired up tonight and communicating with my laptop! Looked at all the settings and etc. Wiring IT up should be done in the next day or two. Since I have no fuel system at this point anyways there's not much point in me rushing things. The harness is routed and the stock harness is pulled apart. I got my wipers working and the cruise control probably works too - you can seperate their harness from the main engine harness pretty easily.

I even figured out how to work relays, nifty. I've got my fuel pump relay mounted and it should be wired in the next day or so.

Roger, in the MS the O2 sensor was set to narrowband, I want to change this to wideband right? And I want to use the 0-5V output on my WB, not the 0-1V, right?

What's the Best place to get +12V during IGN and crank from? Where the stock ECU gets it from (dash harness?)?

 

If you have a WB, set it to that, and check your MegaTune configuration to be sure it's set up properly as well.

In the re-wire of my 1st gen, I used the wire powering the coil +ve lead to drive a relay which powers all injectors, MS, and coils. Be sure to include appropriate fuses as well.

 

... just to let everyone know, I'm waiting on ONE fuel fitting to make my car run.

it's really really frustrating.

 

Great to hear. While you are waiting check to see that all sensors read properly. All except O2 should be easy to check. Crank the engine, and verify that you see rpm. You could also check cranking timing with a timing light to very proper CAS positioning.

 

I think your turbo is too small...

What fitting are you waiting for? If it's a Russel 90 degree -6, they are sold out in all of North America. Russel didn't make enough so they are scrambling to get another run done. I had to substitute my last few fittings with Aeroquip since that's all I could find in town on a Friday afternoon before a holiday weekend...I'm not as impressed with the Aeroquip fittings, but that's another story...

 

I think my turbo is too small too, but I am worried that the engine will have trouble holding together if I put on a bigger one.

roger, good idea... I'm going to do that tomorrow or the next day hopefully! I need some time off work first

 

Sorry, I guess my sarcasm didn't come through.

 

I was pretty sure you were being sarcastic.. but I wasn't :P

I'm just waiting on a fuel-rail fitting, and if it doesn't come in today I'm just retapping the damn rail for NPT and using an NPT fitting.

All the fittings I've been using have either been Aeromotive or Russell.. the aeromotive stuff is awesome and the russell stuff seems to be pretty good as well.

 

Yeah I agree....turbo is too small