Well, just a few things I've noticed:

1) 15 degrees is way more cranking advance than I've ever used on a rotary. I usually use 0 degrees.
2) I don't remember if you said you're using stock coils, but the amount of dwell you're using will have the stock coils well into their current limiting, and could cause noise issues. I've usually used < 3ms.
3) If the CAS is stabbed at stock, it'll be 5 degrees for the tooth #1 angle.

Your wheel decoder settings look exactly as they should. Dual wheel 24 teeth at cam speed with a second trigger every rotation of the crank. Another configuration that should work is dual wheel 12 teeth at crank speed with 2nd trig every rotation of the crank.

None of those would explain RPM being 2x real RPM or spark happening 2x more often than it should.

What kind of changes have been made to the engine? Stock ports? street port?

I ask because I don't normally see as much advance as you're using on stock or mildly ported engines. The advance at the low RPM low load up to 100 kPa (and maybe above that) seems too high to me. I'll have to confirm that with my friend's stock S5 turbo table though. I run a LOT less timing at the low RPMs on the rotaries I've tuned (nothing but stock ports).

Also, Just to make sure there isn't some kind of bug affecting you, you could try shutting off trailing ignition (reboot after doing this) and just starting on leading only.

Ken

 

Try flashing to 3.1 and loading my msq, then you'll just have to make minor changes to the wheel decoder and such. Also, make sure to change the ignition map if you do it, I'm using BDC's HBP timing, and it's way too aggressive down low for a stock or streetported engine.

 

Re: timing, I've been sweeping from way retarded to way advanced, hence what you see on this map. That doesn't matter.


But I am going to hit it tonight and try all the other suggestions - THANKS!



meanwhile, do I have him on what you consider the correct firmware version?

 

I did wind up re-working that a bit. I had it too aggressive at the lower RPM's below 2000rpm if I recall correctly. I think I wound up yanking about 7-10* out of the leading while still keeping negative split on trail and it zipped the motor up a hair bit more. I suppose I could re-do it at some point but it's not detrimental to the engine.

B

 

Followup: PROBLEM SOLVED!

We had everything right, except we wired the primary injectors on the secondary injector output. Talk about making tuning near impossible! switched them around and this engine runs perfect!

Thanks all for the advice.