rrluthi

I tried the auto generated one, but it was horrible... I had to double my REQ_FUEL to get the car to run with the generated VE table.

I have a 13b 6 port streetported with S4 intake and 4x460 injectors.

If you need any more info on my setup, let me know.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Post your email and I'll send you the .msq I was sent by 2713ddddavid for a non ported 6 port engine
edit: it is also for if you have a modded CAS, If you have the stock CAS you will need to change it.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

FYI
I`m also running an LC-1 wideband O2.
I`m glad I`m able to help some of ya : - ) it lets me give back some of the EXTENSIVE help I received from Muythaibxr and a host of others during my assembly and install.

I`m still working on getting a higher idle, while also getting a leaner idle, thats my current stumbling block. As of now my idle AFR is in the range of like 10.5 to 11.5 which I feel is WAAYYYY rich.

Feedback and Advise are VERY welcome now.!!!

muythaibxr

Tofuball and I on his S5 NA were idling at about 800-900, and idling so smooth you couldn't see the engine move AT ALL.

We were running about 12.2-12.8:1, and 5 ATDC ignition timing.

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I have idle at ~1500 and its not butter smooth. My idle AFRs are in the 11-12 range as well. For some reason I think my mounts are a little worn out, possibly due to the fire.

A couple side notes though,
1. We should have a base map thread where the four stock categories (s4, s5, na, turbo) can get a good base map and some advice on what to change for their particular setup.
2. I was told to put a 1k resistor between the WB's analog out and the O2 in on the MS, is this true?

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Inovate site stated that mod to protect their controller from damage by the MS....or maybe it was visa-versa.

Any idea why I have a hard time getting my idle worked out (leaner) as well as up around 900 to 1000 rpms. And no I have not set up the BACvalve circuit yet. I am still tring to figure out just what to do for that BACV.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Well I went back and looked at all my notes and diagrams made while building my MS. TO my supprise it looks like I made a couple of recommended mods to my V3 board to get BACV operational

I changed out Q4 with a ZTX 689 Transistor
and also changed out R19 with 510 ohm 1/2 watt metal film resistor.

What I need to now now are a couple of things. Is there anything else I should do component wise?
I assume the pin 30 on the DB 37 connector, which is the Fidle pin, gets connected to
pin 2Q on my plug n play harness which is the output to the my BACV.
But what else gets connected to it?
TIA
Scott

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

I`ll be happy to post that .msq but first I need to get a complete list about the application I`m using it in. Also be assured It is not just my msq but one that was "borrowed" from a couple of sources before finally getting my 7 to run well enough to drive.

muythaibxr

basically you have to turn the new idle circuit into the one on the 2.2 board... that means a 1n4001 diode to +12v off the leg of Q4 that goes to pin 30 on the db37... the pin opposite that pin goes straight to ground.

If you do those things or have already done them, you should be set.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Ken,

Do you mean that I connect one leg of a 1n4001 diode to pin 30 of the DB37 and the other leg of it to ground?
Somehow I don`t think that is right is it.
Sorry but I just barely understand some of this as it is so bare with me here.
I need the simple instructions on how to build this and wire it up. Sorry for all the trouble:-(.

I did build my MS with the Q4 trans. and R19 Resistor that you recommended in the FAQ. Is there now more needed than that to get control of the BAC valve?

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

I found this on the MS site in the V3 assembly instructions.

For PWM Idle Valve Users Only

Note - if you are using a PWM idle valve (Ford or Bosch 2 wire valve - see this link for more information), these valves can not be operated with a relay. As a result, they need a higher capacity transistor installed.

DO NOT install Q4 for use with PWM idle valves - it cannot handle the current directly for PWM idle valves. ('On/Off' type idle valves used with a relay are fine with the default Q4.)

Instead, for a PWM idle valve, use a TIP120/121/122 transistor (such as Digi-Key 497-2539-5-ND, 74¢ ea.) mounted on either the heat sink (if you have a spare spot) or the case. You should use a mica insulator (4724K-ND, 93¢) with heat sink grease as well. Run wires to the Q4 connections as shown below:

Do not install Q20 or D8, and jumper R39 as well. You will also have to put a 1N4001 diode across the PWM Idle valve itself - the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt (this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve).

Is not installing Q20 or D8 and jumpering R39 something that needs doing as well?

muythaibxr

those instructions are not necessary... they posted those because you can easily find a TIP120 at radio shack.

What I'm saying is that the banded end of the 1n4001 should go to +12v, the non-banded end should be soldered directly to the ZTX689... specifically the pin that's further from the heatsink. You can leave the 510 ohm resistor where it is.

You do need to remove Q20, D8, and R39, and replace R39 with a jumper.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha !
Thanks Ken thats crystal clear to me now. Sorry for needing to be led by hand and spoonfed the answer.
Do you have a prefered place to get +12vdc on the board? I thought I would put the 1n4001 in the proto area and use wire to bring it +12vdc as well as to connect it back to the needed pin on Q4.

rrluthi

wait, so to wire up the PWM valve you don't power the valve from the battery? The MS provides power? or does the MS provide ground?

you said to wire the diode to +12...

muythaibxr

the ms provides ground, the diode is there for flyback protection.

You still have to provide +12v to the valve.

There should be a sanctioned 12 volt source (S12) on the board closer to the DB37

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Ken,
Is the 12vdc source you are refering to between the heatsink and CPU with the label s12c? Its labled on the back of the pcb and its just an open solder point.
If thats not it I don`t know where to find it cause I`ve looked over the rest of the board.

I have already removed Q20, and D8. I`ve also removed R39 and put a jumper in its place.

Now my plan is to put the 1n4001 in the proto area, connect 12vdc to the banded end with jumper wire and the opposite side to the Q4 pin farthest from the heatsink.

If this is correct then the only thing left to do after the above is completed is to connect pin 30 of the DB37 to Q2 of my adapter harness.

Do I also need to provide a switched 12vdc source directly to the BAC valve???

rrluthi

Yeah, I'm going to be setting my car up to run the BAC valve tomorrow, if someone could post a step by step of the mods to the board that would be awesome. I think I have the BAC wiring down... pin 30 to BAC, other BAC wire to switched battery power with a 2 amp fuse.

However the board mods aren't that clear atm.

muythaibxr

I posted the mods on a couple of posts ago on this thread., are you saying those aren't clear?

david: s12c is what I was talking about.

also, yes... you have to provide a switched +12v power source to one of the pins on the BAC valve.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

I was going over the FAQ looking at the settings for BAC. You show it being used for warmup only. Here is part of the statement made but it`s not entirely clear.

I'm using the BAC valve for warmup only (we took out the thermowax). They can be used to control idle all the time, but that feature was fixed after the firmware revision I'm using.

Am I to understand that the BAC Does not have the ability ti control the idle all the time? I would like idle control full time myself as with AC etc I`m having trouble, (like I can`t use A/C or the engine stalls all the time)

If it will work all the time what should the settings be?

muythaibxr

It'll work all the time now, but I still haven't had time to get some good settings for closed-loop idle with the BAC valve. One of these days I'll get around to updating the FAQ with the new menus and such now that there's a new "stable" msns-extra.

Ken

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Ken for all you help so far.

I had time today to make the mod to my MS as described earlier. Everything is back in the car and running. I used my DVM and found that of the two wires to the BAC the black with white stripe has 12vdc whenever the key is on, engine running etc. as far as I can tell the other wire is supposed to go to the ECU plug Q2 pin. However the wire at the BAC is Green with a red dot. the wire at the ECU pin is blue with a green stripe.
I tried the setup without changing anything from my current .msq but no BAC operation.... cold OR warm. I also tried with a second BAC I have but same as before.
Of course it would not be so easy. Is the BAC either open or closed OR does it modulate?

muythaibxr

The BAC modulates... hence the PWM settings when you use it with the MS.

If the wire at the BAC is different from the wire in the harness, it's likely you have the wrong wire.

2Q appears to be correct though.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

I`ve double and triple checked the wire color and I was WRONG. The wire IS blue with a green stripe at the BAC plug and the ECU plug. I checked the resistance of my BAC and it is within spec per Haynes manual. I checked continuity of the wire in question and it also is good. With the key on I have 12vdc at the BAC black wire with white stripe. The valve never moves and idle is never affected during a run, from dead cold to fully warmed up. What kind of voltage should I be seeing at the valve during normal operation? Or should I be able to see anything at all across the BAC terminals ever since it modulates?
I`m willing to bet its a matter of settings in the msq. Any ideas?

renns

I used a BAC valve as a simple on/off fast idle control on an older setup by adding a restrictor to the air inlet to give the desired fast idle speed. A resistor was also added in series with the electrical circuit to keep the current draw down, as there was some concern that the BAC valve coil may overheat if run at continuous 12v setting. You could try powering the BAC valve manaully, just to verify it actually pulls open properly.

I've never used it in full-time idle control mode, as it's un-necessary in my car. You'll have to do some experimentation to find the best settings. Spend some time searching over at msefi.com (keywords IAC PWM Idle), and you should get some further info.

2713ddddavid

iTrader: (1)

Thanks renns every little bit helps