im going to keep the dizzy for spark. yes yes, i know its not nearly as good. but im running to MSD6s'a on it now. with blaster coils. so the spark isnt bad. i know theres much less tunability with only fuel control. but im looking to make it easy and cheap.

so....

what megasquirt to use if im keeping the stock 12a distributor set-up?

im getting rid of the carb cause with big ports theres low vacuum. wich creates problems with carbs (wich run off vacuum) so theres always to many comprimises. im tired of hard starting and either losing low end or high end... EFI it is!

 

question why not use the megasquirt for the ignition as well?? its not any more expensive really all u need is a cheap cas. and then u can have a even better tune which results in better hp and fuel economy.

and as far as making tuning easy its going to be almost as hard to set up a map for fuel only . and its going to be more difficult if u want to try a base map already made so u have somewhere to start from.

if u are going to invest in a fully functional standalone why not take advantage of it???

oh and u will also need some 2nd gen coils. but again they can be ahd for a pretty decent price especially if u sell your msd box

 

My RX-3 is currently fuel only. Moving to Fuel and spark this summer. It's using a v2.2 board running ms&s-e code for the higher resolution, staged injection and other goodies. Really anything will work fuel only, IIRC the only thing you have to change is the resistor for the water temp sensor (maybe air temp I can't remember). I beleive that is documented in the FAQ. Run a wire to one of the negative terminal of one of the coils for a tach signal and that's it.

I started with one of the basemaps on here and simply changed the spark and LEDoutputs back to the default settings.

 

MS1 with a 2.2 board would be cheap and sufficient for fuel only. Ignition could be added on later on if you desire for a little extra cost (VR conditioner, CAS, coils, etc.)

 

thanks for the tips...

im still going to keep it fuel only. i think finding a MS1 with the v2.2 board would be a good route to go.

i dont think they make the MS1 anymore? so i would have to find it used? i would much rather get one pre-assembled...

 

still available, go to diyautotune.com or glennsgarage.com they should have prebuilt versions of all board revisions.

 

thanks again

 

so this would be perfect for what im trying to do?

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...unit-p-34.html


im not the greatest when it comes to wiring? what will wiring this in entail. there are no wires left in the car that it came with. i complete removed all harness'. theres only the wires to and from the dizzy, to and from the alt to battery. and to the push button start.

so im thinking i would just have to wire this to the four injectors, TPS, AIT sensor, and thats it? oh plus a 12v source...

 

well, how hard/technical is the soldering to put this together? i think i could do it. it all seems to be pretty well labeled.

i think i'll go with this one instead...

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...bled-p-28.html

this is all i will need right? does this one have ignition tuning capabilities incase i want to upgrade later on?

 

That kit will do the job. You can upgrade this board to ignition control later on, although if you have a good performing distributor system, benefits will be marginal.

I'd definitely suggest building the unit yourself. The V2.2 board has components well spaced for the newbie to handle. You should consider picking up a stimulator also, so you can properly bench test the unit prior to installation. Alternatively, if you post at msefi.com, you may also find a helpful 'squirter in your neighbourhood that can loan you one.

For wiring, you could build your own harness, or buy the pre-made harness also from DIY. All the info you need for building and wiring, sensor requirements, etc. is at www.megamanual.com.

 

thanks again...

 

Because adding the 2nd VR circuit for the ignition pickup requires some circuit building which many people are not equipped (mentally, skill wise and equipment wise) to do. In addition, extreme attention must be paid to cabling to avoid things like interference which will cause major tuning problems (and do an engine if ran under load). Fuel only is the easiest Megasquirt installation which will work "out of the box" and get a person into tuning with a much flatter learning curve.

Use the V3 board. It has the more robust flyback circuit, a better design and a built in VR circuit which you will need when you decide to control ignition as well. the increase in cost is only marginal. You can run the MSI or the MSII CPU.

Assembling it yourself will get you familiar with the circuit and board, but will be a mistake if this is your first electronics project. Pre-assembled is a big time saver and may be a good choice if you've never built a large electronics kit.

 

few questions about your post...

whats a flyback circuit and a VR curcuit?

so the v3 with the MSI is ignition capable?

also, whats the difference between MSI and MSII???

i have soldered a few wires together. never anything to a circuit board. what solder and iron do you reccomend???

thanks...

 

What Solder, I bought a 500gm roll of 60% Tin, 40% Lead, resin cored, which is 1mm in diameter. I bought this roll in 2004 and it is still going strong.

What iron, my uncle bought me a 40W Adjustable temperature soldering station which has a spot for a little sponge.

More advice
Since doing work experience with some electronics assembly I will tell you while you are out at the shops

Buy a Flux pen, and a soldering iron tip cleaner. Also buy another soldering iron tip that is smaller (the one that comes with the iron will probably be huge). I'm talking smaller but not too small the a head approximately 1mm and comes to a point, not those stupid slanty ones.

Keep your old toothbrush instead of throwing it out, and try and find some isopropyl alchohol. You use this to scrub the gunk off the board after assembly is complete. The board seems to weep this brown oil, and you will want to scrub the flux off because it attacks the pcb over some years.

There you go now you know all the tools of the trade you will be able to learn how to solder and make your board look professional.

When current is flowing through an inductor and then the current is switched off, the field electromagnetic field that the inductor built up outside itself collapses, and this causes a voltage spike at the ends of the inductor. The field collapses because the inductor tries to keep the current flowing in the same direction, the voltage is also a negative spike and can be dangerous to certain chips and devices. This is the same reason you put a diode across a relay.

The fuel injectors are the inductors in this case, and they will try to kill the circuit driving them without a flyback circuit.

The VR circuit is the circuit that conditions the sinusoidal voltage waveform



into a digital waveform



That the processor inside the megasquirt can handle.

All megasquirts out now are ignition capable.

The difference between MS1 and MS2 is that the MS1 cpu is a chip made by freescale semiconductor. And MS2 is a board which makes a different and more powerful processor have the same pinout as MS1.

 

wow...

thats some damn good info. i appreciate that!

 

I say go fuel only to start with. Walk before you try running the 110 meter hurdles. It's much easier when there's only ONE major control system that you're getting wrong