I finally found this great one stop document for modifying the MS2 V3 to work with the stock CAS here: http://stuff.pw.cx/Megasquirt%20MS2%...azda%20CAS.pdf

Take a look and if you think this is worthy maybe we can try to track down the author and ask to post it here int the FAQ for MS2.

 

That's actually been around for a while, and it's a great read. I'll add it to the FAQ.

But I must say, the Megasquirt writeup I am almost complete writing dwarfs it. And every other Megasquirt writeup ever, I think.

 

Yes, but almost only counts in hand grenades and horse shoes. LOL

 

Thanks, I am eagerly awaiting your write up also so I learn even more about the MS and tuning.

 

One thing to add to that write-up would be instead of having the RC circuit on pin 14 of the LM1815n, just connect it straight to ground to activate zero-crossing mode. Other than that its a good write-up and i've referred other people to it before

 

Ha, ha, ha.

It is actually more involved then I thought writing this thing because there is a lot to cover. Two major versions of the Megasquirt and a lot of different ways to set it all up in the car. Plus the requirements of modifying the stock harnesses, building the 'Squirt, modding it, etc. I've tried to hold the balance between explaining every little thing and not providing enough info.

 

Yes, technical documentation like that is really tough to get right for sure. I have done some of that in previous jobs and it may have been the most painful job I ever had. I am doing a start from scratch on my race car wiring so once I get that figured out the rest of the way, just found where I missed a switched 12V to the coils, I will post exactly how I wired it up.

I am still not getting any rpm indications when cranking and watching with megatune running. I have toned out all the leads from the CAS on through the relay board, to the ECU end of the connecting cable based upon the diagram in the referenced step by step doc. Prior to that I also toned all my mods within the MS case again per the document. Now here is how I have the wires connected to the CAS. I see the NE+ as a red wire and the G+ was green. NE- was white and of course G- was the remaining wire. Does that sound right?

 

are you going into depth on what each of the settings do/how they work, or just what the proper settings are?

I'd be more than willing to proof-read/compare notes etc if you want to

 

I'm covering the step-by-step software setup of both the MS1 and MS2. I'm not really explaining every little setting, only the ones that matter and directly effect how the car will be tuned. For example, there is no reason to explain how triggers work to the user any why the settings are the way they are. Just give the settings and move on. I'm at this point just finishing the software settings screen shots for MS1 and hopefully some of it will translate to MS2. After that it is just a matter of finishing up the article with some basic tuning advice, other Megasquirt resources and then putting it all together. The big update on my website is waiting on this article so I would suspect that by the end of July it will all be online.

 

I too would be willing to review everything especially for the MS2 setup. Still fighting the tach signal. Man trying to find an Oscope these days is not easy. Guess I will buy one of the PC Scope setups. I am going back over everything in the second VR circuit to make sure I did not bridge anything and that I got everything wired correctly one more time. If I still can't get the tach signal working and get everything going who would I contact to send the MS to to have it checked out? I bought is preassembled from DIY so do they do repairs and bench checks if I need it?