OK, I got the MS2 all set up. I am running the 2.0.1 code. it has the v3 board, I installed the second vr sensor as shown on (http://stuff.pw.cx/Megasquirt%20MS2%...azda%20CAS.pdf). I have everything hooked up. to simplify things a bit, this is in a sand rail, so there is very little to deal with. this is an N/A 6 port out of a 1986ish RX7. here is my problem. I grounded the case of the cas with a ground wire, I spin the shaft, and I get a very erratic spark. it will spark for a second, and then stop for 4 or 5 seconds, then it will spark for a second. the wierd thing is that when I spin the CAS, the injectors fire at a nice steady pace, so it seems like the CAS is working fine. I went into test mode in megatune, and tested the coil, and it fires perfectly. fast and steady spark. any ideas? I used the settings from the link above to set up my spark. I played with R52, and R56, but it didnt really seam to change anything. those are set back to just were they click now. any ideas?

 

Have you checked the signal voltage out of the cas with a multimeter?
And you need to update to the 2.1.0 code

 

I have checked the CAS as shown in the FSM. it checks out, and I also have a second CAS one in the motor, and one that I spin by hand. the weird thing is that the injectors fire like they should. the injector pulse is perfect, nice and steady. the injectors fire with the middle LED. every time the middle LED flashes, the injectors fire. the LED closest to the DB9 connector is the Light for the leading coil. it only flashes when the leading coil is firing (Erratic). the trailing is firing, but it the same way, it will fire for a second, and then stop , it is hit and miss. the LED furthest from the DB9 does not look like it is flashing, but it could be hard to see. should the pull up resistors be 4.7 K, the pull up resistors that I got from DIYautotune were 470 ohm, and 1 K ohm. they were supposed to be the pull ups for the coils, but the site I listed above said 4.7K. just a thought.

so to summarize, the injectors work perfect, they fire nice and steady, but the ignition comes and goes????????

I guess there are schematics that show R48 to be a 10K, and some show 100K, my instructions said 10K so thats what I installed. i dont know if that would make a difference or not!

 

4.7k ohm is what ken says to use. Look in the faq for ms2 at the top of this forum to double check your setup. r48 has been debateable but im using a 100 k if I remember correctly. Also What cap are you using for c31? try a .001uf my kit came with a .1uf and it fixed a tach signal issue I had. I kept losing the signal.

 

C31 is a .001uf. I changed the CAS out just to be sure. when I crank the motor, sometimes it does nothing, and then part of the time, it will spark. when it sparks, it gives 3 sparks, 3 sparks, 1 spark. it takes almost 2 seconds to go through that pattern. 3 sparks, 3 sparks, 1 spark right as I start cranking, then nothing for the rest of the time I crank. I am almost starting to wonder if it is in the programming, I don't know.

 

You really need to update the ms2 code to 2.1.0. Are you getting resets? or any codes? Sure your settings are all good?Have a msq?

 

I was getting something similar when I was using 2.0.1... 2.1 really cleared all of that up, and its working great now. Upgrade the code!

 

Assuming you are using the 2nd trigger circuit make sure there is a .01 uF cap across G+ and G-, and ground pin 14 on the lm1815 circuit.

Also, there was at least a trailing spark bug on 2.0.1 at low revs that is fixed in 2.1.0, so definitely upgrade. 2.0.1 should be considered broken for rotary engines.

Ken

 

I will upgrade the code tonight and see what happens. I dont think I'm running the cap between G+, and G-. I will check on that. I will see if I can post what little I have for an msq.

 

here is the msq.

 

OK, new problem. I loaded the 2.1.0 version on the megasquirt, but I cant get the copyini.bat to run. it says access denied when I try to run it. I have tried running it as administrator, and it did not change anything. any ideas? I am running vista.

 

You may just need to find megatune's "car1" directory and manually copy the ini file.

You could also try using Tunerstudio. I've switched to that almost exclusively. It'll actually figure out what firmware you're running and use the right ini automatically if you're using a released version of the firmware.

Ken

 

Ok, I'm getting somewere now. I'm not sure if it was the capacitor, or the 2.1.0 code, but I did both, opened it up in tunerstudio,loaded what I had for an msq, and I now have spark. Is there a generic msq out there that I can run just to get it running? I tried to get it running a while ago, but my battery was dead, so I have it charging, and I will see what I can get it to do tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

 

No problem. I'll see if I can dig up a reasonable msq for you from my NA 6-port. Just as a warning, my 5th and 6th ports are stuck closed and I've not had time to fix them, so anywhere your ports open, my fuel table will probably make your engine run lean.

Ken

 

That would be great if I could get the msq for it. My 5th and 6th port are closed for now. I have the motor in a sand rail so the exhaust goes up and towards the front of the motor, and gets in the way of the vac solenoids for those ports. I am thinking I will just open them later on, and build a bracket to keep them open. But when that time comes, I guess it is just a matter of richening up the entire table.

 

Alright, I'll send later tonight.

Ken

 

Thanks, that will make it a lot easier. I am trying to get this going by labor day. I'm heading out to the dunes with some guys from work. they keep giving me crap because they run 2.3 turbo ford motors, and I have to hear about how it was a bad idea to try to run a rotary, and it will never run. its just time to shut them up!

 

Ahh, I just realized my latest (and best-running) maps are for ms3.

I'll have to send you some vex files so you can at least get a reasonable ignition table.

However, I would strongly recommend taking it to a load-holding dyno, and tuning everything on one of those. In my opinion you can get a car drivable and even running pretty well with a street tune, but you can get it perfect on a load-holding dyno.

Ken

 

OK, anything helps. It sounds like it is so close to starting. it will catch a spark every few seconds and you can tell it wants to go. but it just wont do it. the other thing I was wondering, is how fast should the motor spin to fire up. mine spins at about 320RPMs. I know some people have used the 6 volt VW starter at 12 volts to make it spin fast enough (this is mated to a VW tranny) thanks

 

320 should be more than fast enough, I've gotten mine to start as low as 180 rpm on a low battery.

Ken

 

OK, thats one less thing that I have to deal with. now I just need to get my tables lined out and I think Ill be OK. another quick question, on a N/A 1986 13B which fuel line is supply and which is return. I think mine is set up where the fuel supply goes in on the primaries, and the return comes off of the secondaries. thanks again

 

any luck finding those files? once I get it running, I want to take it to a dyno and get it dialed in. but if I can get it running decent I really want to take it out on labor day weekend.

 

How about if you send me your msq, and I'll look over it and make sure it should work, and send it back with my VE and ignition tables inserted.

I could not find my old msq's but I should be able to help you anyway if you send me yours and I mod it.

Ken

 

the return should be coming off of the rail that has the fuel pressure regulator on it. the regulator looks like a little silver mushroom sprouting off of the end of one of the rails with a vacuum line running to it (NOT the clearish/yellowish mushroom with no vacuum nipple; this is the pulsation dampener which you may or may not want to remove... plenty of discussion on that in the 2nd gen forums).

 

thanks for the info on the fuel lines. I have checked the FSM, and several websites, and I couldn't find an answer.