Megasquirt dyno numbers today
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dyno numbers today
hit the dyno today made good number but with bad results. 391.8hp with 295ft/pds @ 15 psi on 91 pump gas. I had inigtion break up @ 7500 and made the rear iron break. Tunning was spot on low 11 afr need to stop reving so high till I figure out was it happening.
#2
MegaSquirt Mod
I was just going to ask if you knew what caused the ignition breakup.
I wouldn't think just ignition breakup would cause an iron to break... I'd think you'd have to spark with REALLY bad timing for that to happen.
Breakup would just be misses, which might cause some extra unburnt fuel...
Did you have a revlimiter set up?
Ken
I wouldn't think just ignition breakup would cause an iron to break... I'd think you'd have to spark with REALLY bad timing for that to happen.
Breakup would just be misses, which might cause some extra unburnt fuel...
Did you have a revlimiter set up?
Ken
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the same thing happen to BDC on the other forum the miss causes extreme rich and that can also cause pre ignition. Under that stress so little can cause it. I had not tune to that level yet. timing was around 16 deg but you could see it on the dyno sheet were the it started to break up. I think the plug were firing but they were not able to light the combustion chamber. I might need to upgrade some stuff. I was running complete stock ignition. Very old plug wires and trailing plug in all holes. Fix it and try again!!! This time I will not rev so high the first pull I will stop a 7000rpm
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not sure I don't know if the miss cause the break or the break caused the miss. It is hard to tell. I have video and dyno sheet.
http://www.markfreeze.com/video/geoff/rx7.wmv
http://www.markfreeze.com/video/geoff/rx7.wmv
#10
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I have found using stock plugs suffering from pre-ignition @ 1.1-13bar in the higher gears after a good power run. Sounded like strong popping noise and big lose in power. I tried many things like adding more fuel and pulling timing back but there was no overcoming the problem.
Once i changed the plugs to NGK competition with prong tip the problem was gone. I was then able to push the boost up to 1.6bar with no issue of pre ignition, Some times i now can get spark miss with the new plugs but this was a lot different to pre-ignition that was happening before with the stock plugs.
With spark miss/blow out, the engine just dies for a split second like someone has turned of ignition
I do all tuning on the road and i am very quick to back of the throttle if it doesn’t feel rite. Running the stock plugs at 1.3bar just didn’t feel rite.
I suspect stock plugs get to hot and can not relieve the heat fast enough which causes the pre-ignition, The NGK competition seem to not suffer from this and allows you to run even more boost.
Sorry im not sure what part number they are, im away from the garage at the moment so i can’t check. I was advised to use these plugs from a local tuner that has had lots of experience with tuning high boost street 13b’s. but I do know they are very cheap. They only cost me $11nz each which is aprox $7us.
Once i changed the plugs to NGK competition with prong tip the problem was gone. I was then able to push the boost up to 1.6bar with no issue of pre ignition, Some times i now can get spark miss with the new plugs but this was a lot different to pre-ignition that was happening before with the stock plugs.
With spark miss/blow out, the engine just dies for a split second like someone has turned of ignition
I do all tuning on the road and i am very quick to back of the throttle if it doesn’t feel rite. Running the stock plugs at 1.3bar just didn’t feel rite.
I suspect stock plugs get to hot and can not relieve the heat fast enough which causes the pre-ignition, The NGK competition seem to not suffer from this and allows you to run even more boost.
Sorry im not sure what part number they are, im away from the garage at the moment so i can’t check. I was advised to use these plugs from a local tuner that has had lots of experience with tuning high boost street 13b’s. but I do know they are very cheap. They only cost me $11nz each which is aprox $7us.
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#16
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I’ve just checked the plugs, the ones i use are B10EGV, Twister7 is rite you can close the gap up also. I taped the gap smaller while tuning to help eliminate any miss spark, but i was told that closing the gap can lead to premature erosion of the electrodes so its a bid of a trade of.
The one thing that i want to stress is that an ignition miss is totally different to the dangerous pre-ignition that stock plugs seemed to suffer from at much lower boost levels to what im now running with the B10EGV plugs.
The one thing that i want to stress is that an ignition miss is totally different to the dangerous pre-ignition that stock plugs seemed to suffer from at much lower boost levels to what im now running with the B10EGV plugs.
#17
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Also the B10EGV needs a thin wall or narrow sparkplug socket or modified socket to work with the 13b rotor housings. This is because it sits flush with the surface of the rotor housing. I had to bevel the tip of my sparkplug socket to make it work.
#18
SAE Junkie
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B9EGV are a very popular plug in Australia for all Rotaries.
I think the big HP turbo guys use B10EGV, there is also an ever colder plug available. Its like B105EGV or something.
I'm pretty sure these plugs are a racing 2 stroke motorbike plug, but they work well in our application
I think the big HP turbo guys use B10EGV, there is also an ever colder plug available. Its like B105EGV or something.
I'm pretty sure these plugs are a racing 2 stroke motorbike plug, but they work well in our application
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