This is what I came up with based on the FAQ section. If you spot something wrong please tell me. pix are a bit blury... sorry. Circuit built in the proto area is based on the right side of the diagram in the FAQ unmodified.

Top side of the board proto area and 3 led's



Whole bottom side


Bottom side of the proto area, keep in mind everything is backwards


Other than that feel free to use these pix as you please.

 

So you now get to use the CAS from a second gen without modifying it? I was reading about it and didn't like the part with electrical cross talk and you have to adjust it with pots so it doesn't miss fire. If you know of a better way around that, let me know.

 

There aren't any electrical crosstalk problems that come from using the second trigger on the CAS. The electrical crosstalk problems come from bad wiring in the harness, and can sometimes be minimized using the potentiometers.

Ken

 

I have a good report, The engine started today. Well it was late at night when i got home from work. I was having troubble getting it started earlier in the week and finally got a change tonight to look over my wiring. I took an extra CAS that was in my parts bin and hooked it up to the plug on my engine wire harness. Slowely spinning it about 100 rpm on megatune i noticed a clicking noise comming from my trailing coil pack and nothing comming from my leading coil pack. So I took a closer look, i have the trailing pack set up not to activate till 1500 rpm in megatune so i spun the CAs faster, sure enough the leading coil pack made a clicking noise. But i thought to myself for a second it should have started with only the trailing pack firing, so i took out one of the trailing plugs, grounded it to the shock tower, and spun the CAS by hand again. WOW! the plug was so fouled out all it did was smoke a little, no spark. It's only 2:15 in the morning and i cant get new plugs so i cleaned all 4 with some steel wool and tested them till i had a strong spark and put them back in place.

But what about the wiring problem you ask? insted of taking my harness i made back appart i changed some wiring inside my megasquirt box. Refer to my second picture, the one of the bottom of the board. The two wires that go from the top of the board from the L.E.D's to the connections on the bottom of the board near the large plug for the harness had to be changed. The black wire and the white wire switch places. This was the quickest fix i could think of, AND IT WORKED!

I didnt have a chance to warm up the engine because I have a small bit of ATF in my engine from when the stock ECU was still in the car so it started to smoke right away and had to shut it off but i will run it more tommorow to clear it out.

So far this whole megasquirt thing has been an adventure, but if someone like me with help from people here on the forum can get one of these things put together you can do it also.

My only suggestions would be get the pre-made wire harness and the error* daughter board, i suggest that for a few reasons. The first reason is it comes with everything you need to build the second VR Sensor on the megasquirt board in the proto area just to get the car started, after you get it started and want to add other things to the megasquirt everything comes in the error* kit to make it work. Takes the confusion and fustration out of everything.

 

Here is my first datalog
Datalog file

 

Did u shielded wire going to the cas?Or are those rpm spikes cause the plugs?Iam not expert on ms's but it looks like ur sognal are sorta allover the place (not smooth),,iam just woundering why!

 

Well to answer your question to the best of my knolledge I put a large ammount of ATF in my engine when i first bought it with the factory ECU in it trying to get it started. I had no luck getting it to run with the factory setup. That is why i decided to try megasquirt in the first place. The reason i'm telling you all of that is i think from sitting for 2 months with all that atf in the engine it disolved my oil seals causing massive ammounts of oil to enter the buisy parts of the engine. It is so bad it was leaking out of my exhaust. The car was having a real hard time trying to idle and fould the plugs after about 15 minutes of running. It was smoking real bad also.

As for the shielded wire question, no, i didnt shield the cas wires. I may in the future but i was just so happy to hear it run and DRIVE it out of my garrage so i could clean up in there none of that came across my mind. After I figure out EXACTILLY what my iol leak problem is and get new parts like TPS, injectors and O2 sensor i'll fine tune eveything.

 

yeah, definitely shield that CAS wire... you'll get all kinds of nasty issues if you don't.

 

[QUOTE=quasar]
I may in the future but i was just so happy to hear it run and DRIVE it out of my garrage so i could clean up in there none of that came across my mind. QUOTE]

lol i know the felling

fyi the oem factory wires to the cas are shielded!!just to let u know

 

[QUOTE=twister7]
Yeah i saw that but my wires were all cut up, I was thinking of going to the junkyard just to get one.

 

I worked about 30 hours overtime last week and i'm expecting a nice check this week. I'm going to order new injectors, wideband O2, TPS, and the wire shield from sparkandfuel.com and give it another shot in a week or two depending on how long it takes me to get it all in.

I had bought the Error* board but cant find any information about it other than the page it came with. Does anyone know where I can find more information about the board? There is more functions than i want to use available on the board and i want to just build the circuits i'm going to use. I just need diagrams for each circuit.

 

http://www.glensgarage.com/extra/Kit...S_Extra_v2.pdf

 

I just bought this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2950&rd=1&rd=1

 

that looks pretty good to me!