suspecting the earthing via the stock fuel pump wiring is insufficient for the pump fitted to it ,, maybe needs bulkhead connector capable of taking more than 10 amps // or a supplementary earth wire from pump to the lid,, and from lid cover bolts to body

 

Well, doesn't the stock fp ground wire run from the screw behind the pump on the bracket to the uncovered screw on top of the lid? The new Stealth pump came with it's own wiring of, I'm guessing, 10-12 gauge wire and I redid all the way to the plug on the drivers rear shock tower in 12 gauge. The only section I would be concerned about would be from there to the lid and I think the stock wiring for such a short distance would be sufficient. I currently get about 0.2v drop compared to battery voltage with the engine running when I back probe the positive and negative terminals on the shock tower connector. I haven't tested after the car has heat soaked/when it acts up.

When it did start acting up during my test drive I happened to make it home and let it idle in the driveway and she started stumbling but would catch, eventually it gradually go worse and worse, stumbling almost to a complete stop but would catch until it finally just dipped too low and died. I tried starting her again and she would either blip up and die, or fire up, stumble a little, then die. I have a video of my tach and AFR as I tried starting it and it did that, if that would help?

Could a bad leading coil also cause this issue? I'm currently running a Jacobs Rotary Pro Pak on a stock coil. If so, how would/should I go about testing that?

 

Well, I've eliminated heat as an issue. I had it idling fine for over an hour and a half yesterday while going around under the hood and smacking everything I could reach with my hands and she didn't stutter once. I took it out for a drive and didn't make it 20 feet before it acted up. So I let it sit overnight to cool and took it out before it could warm up and again I didn't make it even 20 feet. I did notice this morning that I could not connect to the MS through USB, it's happened before but I usually just blame my old laptop, and it took a couple of tries to start. It would just blip and die, but about the third time she caught and stayed running. I'm going to try and swap the stock ecu back in and see if it's the MS acting up, just gotta ground the fuel pump relay and hope the rats nest removal won't affect anything.

 

Swapped the stock ecu back in and boy, apparently I've gotten used to not having a 3k warm-up. So, I put it in gear to kill that and popped it back to neutral and she was pulsing between 1000 and 1500 rpm but eventually settled down around 800 or so. I gave her a bit of gas up to 3k and she would just cut out and drop back down, pulse a bit, and then settle again. I tried taking her for a test drive, so I backed down the driveway and down the hill assuming that if I made it up and died I could just coast back down the hill into the driveway. Well, as I tried pulling up the hill in front of the house she would just cut out as I let out the clutch and I had to grab the Town Car and pull it back into the driveway.

I'm going to try checking the injector filters, blow out the lines, check the fp strainer, and hope I can find a container large enough for 3/4 of a tank of gas so I can check the tank, I really don't want to just idle her out of gas especially when I filled up back when it was almost $4/gallon, it's down to about $3.40 right now though. I really hope it's not an actual issue with the injectors themselves since I just had them sent of to Advanced Injector over the winter while she was down.

Here's a vid of me giving it a little gas and it cutting out.

 

Well, took the intake off today and separated rails from banjos and everything and just went to town blowing all the lines and rails out. I even blew a bit backwards through the injectors, I know it wasn't probably the smartest thing to do. Anyways, I got a little bit of crap on a rag from blowing through the feed line to the filter and that was about it. I didn't have a rag on the tops of the injectors when I did them but I'm assuming something was in them as well.

She runs like a top now though. I did have to cut about 50% out of my VE table across the board, but I'm assuming that's from the Aeromotive pump's capacity. I'm thinking the stock regulator is getting overwhelmed by the flow, might also be the reason why it's a bit finicky to dial it in like it was since it's down to .1 increments and that's even too much in places, so next up is probably an FPR.

 

It looks like you used teflon tape on your fittings? I had done this once, and the guys at Rotary Performance warned me not to do that as pieces of it will break off into the fuel system. Something about after you tighten it, and depending how much you use the pieces closest to the tip of the male side will come apart first.


anyway, something to think about with a weird problem like that.

 

The Teflon from the gauge was already there, it was having the problems before I put the gauge on. When I do use Teflon I tend to keep it at least a couple threads back. But, thanks for the heads up though.