Someone please post a pic of the finished item so i can see what's been done.. I understand the concept I'd just like to see how the timing issue was sorted out and what teeth a working system used ..

TIA..

 

The only person I know of that's done it that way is pmrobert.

It doesn't actually matter which 2 you cut out as long as they are 180 degrees apart (exact opposite sides of the 24 tooth wheel in the CAS)

It's all about how you align it once you get it in the car, and how you configure the software.

 

So how do you align it? :-)

 

It's been a couple of months but I think I set the first tooth after the gap at 60 degrees BTDC. I had detailed notes and pics but hurricane Wilma trashed my workshop destroying the laptop I had them on. I'm sure muy will chime in here to confirm. Attached is a pic of my 12-1 modded CAS, yellw arrows point to the ground off ex-teeth.

-Mike

 

Thanks Mike, that's a good pic. I've got my CAS modified and it reads RPM perfectly. I guess I just don't understand how to stab it.
-John

 

well I read over Muy's Wheel Decoder How-to for the 50th time and I think I'm starting to see the light! Too bad my battery is dead and can't keep the MS powered up while cranking.
-John

 

Charge it up! Good to see you're making progress!

-Mike

 

yeah, if you use triggers/returns of 1,3 and 7,9, and line the CAS up on tooth # 3 (to the right of the missing tooth) and stab the CAS (make sure your engine is on the yellow timing mark first), you should be able to start the car if your fuel is correct. You'll have to adjust the CAS a little after getting it started, but that's not a big deal. This is assuming a trigger angle of 60 deg.