i can push start the car and it will run fine but when i try to turn it overwith the starter it wont start. its not the starter because i just bought a new one. any help would be wonderful.

 

Well, obviously it's not the starter if it's cranking (at a sufficient speed.) Poor grounds are a common issue, causing voltage drops in addition to the drop created by the starter. Seems highly likely this would be the case if the car could be push started.

When cranking, what RPM does megatune report? What voltage does megatune read? Is the rpm constant or does it come in and out?

 

cranking speed or compression?

 

its a fresh rebuild im not sure of compression but the cranking speed is around 185 or so

 

185 is pretty low. Should be more like 220-250. Try a different battery and/or clean up your major grounds.

 

i installed this system in his car, we added a fresh ground wire from the battery to the chasis and got the cranking speed up to 265, the car will now start no problem when it's cold but like my car it wont start when it's hot. I got it to where it will start when it's hot but you have to have your foot on the throttle 20%. I'm thinking of adding the fidle valve with hope that it will help

 

If your having to open the throttle to get it to start hot then it sounds like the cranking pulsewidths in the hot temp's are too long. Shorten them a bit and give it a try.

 

When you look at the Megatune, does it show you any rpm read outs? It should fluctuate as its cranking. If not, you're getting noise. Are you using the 2 tooth cut out CAS or just built the second circuit? What I have to do on mine and works perfectly is:

Ground CAS at the MS
Take a 103k Capacitor (ceramic type) and place one lead at the CAS 2nd trigger + and the other at MS ground
In Megatune Turn on Noise Filter and set from 500 to10 in a linear way
CAS cable is a quad connector dual shielded cable, grounded at MS
Ground MS at engine
Aditional ground cable from CAS at MS to engine where the rest are
And lastly the one that makes it all work like a charm, ground the CAS at ms straight to the battery.

This setup has given me an incredibly clean signal everytime to the MS. And if you start seeing the numbers fluctuate on the MS RPM guage, then you've won 1/2 the battle and the rest is just figuring out if you need more or less fuel to start it up and longer spark time.

 

I have had luck with increasing the pw while cranking, i have it set to one standard setting instead of using the table but is seems since it started to get hot out we have been having problems. At this point i'm willing to try anything. I have been toying with the idea of using the table but i dont know where to start, also his and my engine are both bridgeported, i think this is one reason we are both having the same problem.

 

When an engine is cold it needs a fair bit more fuel to run than when it is warm. This is why there are tables for craning and warmup based on coolent temp. Right now you seem to have your pw's set for a good cold start, but without the table this will make it very rich on a hot start.

Look at the coolent temp guage on megatune when you start it cold (or whenever it usually starts up nice and quick) and find the closest temp on the chart and enter your pw value in. Use that as your base. Use a lower number for hotter temps and a larger number for colder temps. You'll have to play with it a bit to get it right, and the exact numbers depends on your injectors and other variables.

Using that table should fix your hot start issue.

 

I'll give it a shot, i was going to meet with boosted1 tonight but went out to eat with friends. Maybe tomorrow i'll be able to catch up with him and iron this out.

 

We figured out what i did wrong, i had all 3 of the ignition coils wired wrong. and i'm now using the first start pw table and the car runs and starts flawless.