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Whats up? Names Eric, I live in New York and have always been a fan of Rx7's. This weekend Im actually purchasing my first FD and was hoping for a few inputs on the car Im interested in.

Im pretty sure the cars been posted on here before. Shes a 93 FD with the following mods: 1. Street ported: intake and exhaust,
2. Lightened flywheel with street/strip clutch disk,
3. Simplified Sequential vacuum setup,
4. fuel pump speed mod,
5. 2nd gen coil w/ magnacore wires and irriduim plugs
6. underdrive alt and Wp pulleys
7. full 4" exhaust: Dp, Midp w res, Catback
8. stainless steel, braided brake lines.
9. Front mount intercooler

She runs and drives, but needs a tune and paint. The car has 68,xxx on it and Im getting her for $6700 (sacrafice sale). All inputs are appreciated. Thanks again guys!

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Welcome.

Check out the 3rd gen FAQ thread and read the Buyer's Guides that are in there.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

You might want to have a compression test done. I assume its not a salvage title?

A 4" exhaust is overkill - especially on stock twins. I don't see a mention of changes/upgrades to the fuel system. How much boost is it running? What is being used for boost control? It must boost spike and creep with a 4" exhaust and no cat. Stock ECU?

What are you going to do about emissions testing?

The price is reasonable but do expect to put a few thousand back into it in maintenance and such.

IRP (Rotary Experiment Seven) is located in Clifton, NJ and T&R is in Queens, NY if you need a rotary shop to do a compression test.

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It is a clean title, not a salvage. All the seals and such were replaced about 10 miles ago, so its still in the break in period. It does have the stock ECU. And the only thing done to the fuel system im pretty sure is just the fuel pump. Not too sure if that makes a big difference. Im pretty new to this stuff. I have tons of pictures and videos of her running. Do you think its worth $6700? How much could a base tune cost just to get her running good enough to drive for now?

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

I think it's worth 6700, but you're gonna need a PFC or something similar to tune it, you can pick one up used on here for 700ish dollars, or buy new for 1000. A good tune from most places is shop time+dyno time(usally the same price as shop time, here at least). I think I paid about 300 dollars for my last tune, but I went back and had to fine tune it a little myself. The stock ecu's aren't "reflashable" like hondas.

Can you give us a better description of the "fuel pump speed mod"?

A few other things to look into getting are an AST and an aluminum rad. Look into auxilary injection (water and/or meth) too.

I think if you dropped about 2500 right now you'll have a very capable and potent car that will be an absolute blast.

PFC - 1000
aluminum rad - 400
ast - 150
tune - say 400
AI - 300

Welcome to rotaries, it's a whole other ball game.

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By PFC Im guessing Power FC? Is that a necessity for the tuning process? As of right now I just want the cheapest, minimum tune just to get the car running right. I dont need it tuned to reach peak HP as of right now. And as for the fuel pump mod, Im clueless haha. Im just going by what the guy told me about the car. Any helps very much appreciated!

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

ask him what he means by it.
Yes power FC, PFC is a fairly common abreviation. the PFC is not necessary, but it's more versatile than the cheaper option which it the pettite ecu which is 700 new, which is honestly the only way I would buy it so they can get it set up for your car with your mods. But I've seen em go for cheaper. But hey, that's just my opinion. Just check classifieds, PFCs get posted up fairly frequently, you can buy the computer itself for 400 and go to IRP or another place and have it tuned. You don't need the commander or datalogit by any means, but they're nice to have.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like a pretty damn good deal overall. Be very careful test driving it b/c w/o boost control, you can easily blow the engine if you go over 10 PSI of boost. Unless you have huge power as one of your goa$, I'd probably get rid of the exhaust altogether and get a streetable exhaust like the Racing Beat and a high flow cat. that should keep boost manageable to safe settings (10 PSI).

who built the motor? Does he have a receipt?

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I asked him about the fuel pump mod, still waiting for a response. And Im still a little confused on the PFC. Is the Power FC needed to get this car up and running for the time being? I'm just trying to get this car drivable for the weekends on a low budget for now. Until work picks up of course.

One more thing. When you say keep the boost under 10psi is that for the break in period only? Thanks again guys

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

Is the PFC needed? no
is it highly recommended for safe driving and being able to beat on the car and turn the boost up? YES
keep it under 10psi until you get the PFC, the stock ECU can NOT handle more than 11psi. I'm honestly not completely sure if you need it with the street port, but I would think so due to the large increase in air flow. I'm honestly surprised the previous owner didn't put one in.

talk to these guys, they'll treat ya right and they're fairly close
http://irperformance.com/

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Hey guys, I just got a reply on the fuel pump mod. "The speed mod isn't actually anything that has to do with speed. The pump gets it's power from the ignition system. A max of 11.5 volts. This mod gets the pump a full 12 volts plus some." And there is no boost controller but still at the stock 10psi.

Any inputs are appreciated

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

sounds like he rewired the fuel pump, search for it on here and make sure he did it right, it's a good idea.