New 7 on the block
06-11-10, 12:17 AM
#1
New 7 on the block
Hey everybody. Thought I would introduce myself and my new baby. My name is Kyle. I've been into Z cars for awhile now but I've also liked the RX7s. Today I picked up a super nice 83 RX7 from my uncles friend for $300. I already know some things about them but I would love to learn more. I hope to make this 7 into a nice car to go with my 280ZX. I'll get pictures up soon. Its too dark now for me to get any.
06-11-10, 12:57 AM
#2
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Oh, man, what a score! 
You have got to post some pics by this Saturday! You've come to the right place to get all your answers and some crazy ideas to get that beast running strong! I used to have a 280ZX back in the day myself. Now, it's down to the 4 cars in my sig. 
Welcome aboard, Kyle! The more 1stgen folk who join, the better!!
Mario III
You have got to post some pics by this Saturday! You've come to the right place to get all your answers and some crazy ideas to get that beast running strong! I used to have a 280ZX back in the day myself. Now, it's down to the 4 cars in my sig. Welcome aboard, Kyle! The more 1stgen folk who join, the better!!
Mario III
06-11-10, 01:19 AM
#3
lol. I'll have picks soon I hope. I was looking at your sig and my dad has 2 68 Firebirds. One is fully restored and numbers matching except paint, and the other is undergoing a full restoration.
The 7 needs some work but I got a really good deal. It has a dent in the left fender but it should be easy enough to bang out. The paint is great except on the stainless trim. Its been sitting for about 6 years but it turns by hand. I'm going to do whatever I can to make sure I dont damage the engine when I start it.
Anything I should do be before starting it? What are some things I should take care of or keep an eye out for?
The 7 needs some work but I got a really good deal. It has a dent in the left fender but it should be easy enough to bang out. The paint is great except on the stainless trim. Its been sitting for about 6 years but it turns by hand. I'm going to do whatever I can to make sure I dont damage the engine when I start it.
Anything I should do be before starting it? What are some things I should take care of or keep an eye out for?
06-11-10, 04:24 PM
#4
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Stuck springs or apex seals inside the engine and cross your fingers that the rubber gaskets in the engine haven't dried out. Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb, avoid the "doglegs" extending into the barrels of the carb as you do that, and then turn it by hand as many rotations as you can stand. Repeat this for a couple of days.
Once that's done, pull the plugs and place rags across from the spark plug holes to protect the inner fender paint. Battery should be totally charged before you spin the engine to blow all the excess MMO out of it. Install fresh plugs, fresh distributor rotor and cap. Toss a small capful of ATF into each of the smaller carb throats, chase that with a splash of gas and then give it a go. Just crank it. Use the choke to set a high idle after it starts, to around 1600 rpm.
Don't be surprised or alarmed at the monstrous mosquito-killer of a smoke cloud that will come pouring out of the exhaust for the next 20 minutes. Ssure your neighbors the garage and/or house is not on fire.
That will get it started safely, keep the revs to about 1800, but only the condition of the carburetor itself will help or hinder your efforts to keep it running as it warms up....don't let it stall until the choke lets out.
On the '83 GS, I was able to start the car in 2003 after it had been sitting in a garage since 1994. I towed it home for the festivities. The only downer to the whole experience was that the O-ring at the top of the engine had dry-rotted a bit, so the engine has the infamous "Dowel Pin O-ring Leak."
To this day, that's the only problem besides a tiny bit of white smoke (not condensation...) at start-up. It's perfect once it's warmed up.
Once that's done, pull the plugs and place rags across from the spark plug holes to protect the inner fender paint. Battery should be totally charged before you spin the engine to blow all the excess MMO out of it. Install fresh plugs, fresh distributor rotor and cap. Toss a small capful of ATF into each of the smaller carb throats, chase that with a splash of gas and then give it a go. Just crank it. Use the choke to set a high idle after it starts, to around 1600 rpm.
Don't be surprised or alarmed at the monstrous mosquito-killer of a smoke cloud that will come pouring out of the exhaust for the next 20 minutes. Ssure your neighbors the garage and/or house is not on fire.
That will get it started safely, keep the revs to about 1800, but only the condition of the carburetor itself will help or hinder your efforts to keep it running as it warms up....don't let it stall until the choke lets out.
On the '83 GS, I was able to start the car in 2003 after it had been sitting in a garage since 1994. I towed it home for the festivities. The only downer to the whole experience was that the O-ring at the top of the engine had dry-rotted a bit, so the engine has the infamous "Dowel Pin O-ring Leak."
To this day, that's the only problem besides a tiny bit of white smoke (not condensation...) at start-up. It's perfect once it's warmed up.
06-12-10, 02:54 AM
#6
Sorry guys. No pics today. I was busy all day getting the car in my name and getting it tuned up. I did the ATF thing and it really smoothed things out from what I could hear and feel. I got new plugs, air filter, rotor, belts, and fuel filter. I got the wrong cap and nobody had the plug wires so I just cleaned up what I had and replaced a broken vacuum servo. I put some gas in the tank and it fired right up. The only problem I have is that it likes to die when I let off the gas when I'm driving around. It doesnt always do it but its no fun going around a corner and the cars dies mid turn. Anybody else had this problem? It doesnt matter if its warm or cold.
Other than that the rest is just minor stuff I can work out later. The tach doesnt like to go past 3k, some of the lights are dead or not coming on, temp, gas, volt meter, and oil pressure gauges dont work.
I'm gonna try to get pics up soon.
Other than that the rest is just minor stuff I can work out later. The tach doesnt like to go past 3k, some of the lights are dead or not coming on, temp, gas, volt meter, and oil pressure gauges dont work.
I'm gonna try to get pics up soon.
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08-11-10, 01:53 AM
#8
Ok. So here are the pics. Sorry it took so long. My camera broke so I had to get a new one. That and I wasn't sure weather or not I would be keeping the car since it decided to not run anymore. My plans are still uncertain but I figure while I have it I might as well fix what I can and hope that I can figure it out.
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