Just starting out
Just starting out with my first FC and slowly learning how to drift
im havin a lil bit of problems but everyone with a rotary understands lol
im really excited and if anybody has advice on starting on a stock and
building it up...like what are the first things i should be doing
for drifting it would be great
thanks
im havin a lil bit of problems but everyone with a rotary understands lol
im really excited and if anybody has advice on starting on a stock and
building it up...like what are the first things i should be doing
for drifting it would be great
thanks
welcome.
Radiator and coilovers would be on the top of the list for drifting. Oh, and tires haha
Maybe a reverse vented hood and upgraded intercooler if its a turbo...
I'd make sure the car is completely sound first tho. Basic maintainance and fixing mechanical issues should be at the top of the list. This will ensure that anything else you do to the car is not in vain.
Drifting is hard on a car, so it's gotta be close to bullet proof before you start out.
I'd make the most out of a stock car. Learn it as well as you can. Get lots of seat time and push the car to the limit. Then, when you start breaking things, you can replace them with upgrades.
Good luck, maybe I'll see you around the valley.
Radiator and coilovers would be on the top of the list for drifting. Oh, and tires haha

Maybe a reverse vented hood and upgraded intercooler if its a turbo...
I'd make sure the car is completely sound first tho. Basic maintainance and fixing mechanical issues should be at the top of the list. This will ensure that anything else you do to the car is not in vain.
Drifting is hard on a car, so it's gotta be close to bullet proof before you start out.
I'd make the most out of a stock car. Learn it as well as you can. Get lots of seat time and push the car to the limit. Then, when you start breaking things, you can replace them with upgrades.
Good luck, maybe I'll see you around the valley.
*When building a drifter this is what I believe that needs to be done in order* (strictly in my OPINION)
1st...-owners manual any kind of "printed" text and pics like a Haynes manual for your specific make and model, lots of research and funding
LSD (limited slip differential) rear end is necessary...
2nd...-Chassis stiffness- (rigid)= lower control arm brace (front), rear end brace, strut bars (front and rear), suspension upgrade, brakes in working order (can be pricey but necessary), decent clutch (hope you have a 5speed...I'm guessing you do),
*(when doing this make sure that when you use a jack always have jack stands and use a 2x4 block of stock wood between the sub-frame and and the 2ton jack, this allows the weight to be dispersed somewhat evenly on the sub-frame rather than one little section of the frame...-why-having a distorted or bent underbelly frame will cause the floor pans to be bent upwards and may cause alignment issues)*,
also routine maintenance and tune up (oil, vacuum lines, hoses, coolant, omp properly working, etc), tires (used, local store low grade used tires), then move up to a roll cage,
3rd...-upgrades- engine (S4 or S5 TII engine, 13B-RE, REW-when getting engines from other vendors make sure to ask for "has it been rebuilt recently" if no, then you should rebuild it), TII drivetrain upgrade (stronger material), when looking for better performance = upgrade turbo (need lots of research and funding), have a port job done (while the rebuild is being done), ceramic coatings on rotor surfaces, ss braided lines with teflon hoses, high grade bolts, not necessarily bigger exhaust-but a more free flowing exhaust,
There is a lot more that can be done to just the engine and EMS (engine management system) or injectors, FMIC, AI (alcohol injection), electric boost controller, turbo timer, etc...but take it slow and easy and do it right the first time.
Big question should be asked...is this a DD (daily driver) or Track Car?
How much money are you willing to spend on it (bare minimum or anything necessary to make it perform for what you want it to do)?
-Any more questions then just PM me, you can do a SEARCH and find all the information but much of it is experience, opinion, and facts- you need to look at all and judge what you find to be helpful to you.
-Matt
1st...-owners manual any kind of "printed" text and pics like a Haynes manual for your specific make and model, lots of research and funding
LSD (limited slip differential) rear end is necessary...
2nd...-Chassis stiffness- (rigid)= lower control arm brace (front), rear end brace, strut bars (front and rear), suspension upgrade, brakes in working order (can be pricey but necessary), decent clutch (hope you have a 5speed...I'm guessing you do),
*(when doing this make sure that when you use a jack always have jack stands and use a 2x4 block of stock wood between the sub-frame and and the 2ton jack, this allows the weight to be dispersed somewhat evenly on the sub-frame rather than one little section of the frame...-why-having a distorted or bent underbelly frame will cause the floor pans to be bent upwards and may cause alignment issues)*,
also routine maintenance and tune up (oil, vacuum lines, hoses, coolant, omp properly working, etc), tires (used, local store low grade used tires), then move up to a roll cage,
3rd...-upgrades- engine (S4 or S5 TII engine, 13B-RE, REW-when getting engines from other vendors make sure to ask for "has it been rebuilt recently" if no, then you should rebuild it), TII drivetrain upgrade (stronger material), when looking for better performance = upgrade turbo (need lots of research and funding), have a port job done (while the rebuild is being done), ceramic coatings on rotor surfaces, ss braided lines with teflon hoses, high grade bolts, not necessarily bigger exhaust-but a more free flowing exhaust,
There is a lot more that can be done to just the engine and EMS (engine management system) or injectors, FMIC, AI (alcohol injection), electric boost controller, turbo timer, etc...but take it slow and easy and do it right the first time.
Big question should be asked...is this a DD (daily driver) or Track Car?
How much money are you willing to spend on it (bare minimum or anything necessary to make it perform for what you want it to do)?
-Any more questions then just PM me, you can do a SEARCH and find all the information but much of it is experience, opinion, and facts- you need to look at all and judge what you find to be helpful to you.
-Matt
Last edited by Snaple07; Jul 23, 2009 at 01:17 AM. Reason: missing a few things
*When building a drifter this is what I believe that needs to be done in order* (strictly in my OPINION)
1st...-owners manual any kind of "printed" text and pics like a Haynes manual for your specific make and model, lots of research and funding
LSD (limited slip differential) rear end is necessary...
2nd...-Chassis stiffness- (rigid)= lower control arm brace (front), rear end brace, strut bars (front and rear), suspension upgrade, brakes in working order (can be pricey but necessary), decent clutch (hope you have a 5speed...I'm guessing you do),
*(when doing this make sure that when you use a jack always have jack stands and use a 2x4 block of stock wood between the sub-frame and and the 2ton jack, this allows the weight to be dispersed somewhat evenly on the sub-frame rather than one little section of the frame...-why-having a distorted or bent underbelly frame will cause the floor pans to be bent upwards and may cause alignment issues)*,
also routine maintenance and tune up (oil, vacuum lines, hoses, coolant, omp properly working, etc), tires (used, local store low grade used tires), then move up to a roll cage,
3rd...-upgrades- engine (S4 or S5 TII engine, 13B-RE, REW-when getting engines from other vendors make sure to ask for "has it been rebuilt recently" if no, then you should rebuild it), TII drivetrain upgrade (stronger material), when looking for better performance = upgrade turbo (need lots of research and funding), have a port job done (while the rebuild is being done), ceramic coatings on rotor surfaces, ss braided lines with teflon hoses, high grade bolts, not necessarily bigger exhaust-but a more free flowing exhaust,
There is a lot more that can be done to just the engine and EMS (engine management system) or injectors, FMIC, AI (alcohol injection), electric boost controller, turbo timer, etc...but take it slow and easy and do it right the first time.
Big question should be asked...is this a DD (daily driver) or Track Car?
How much money are you willing to spend on it (bare minimum or anything necessary to make it perform for what you want it to do)?
-Any more questions then just PM me, you can do a SEARCH and find all the information but much of it is experience, opinion, and facts- you need to look at all and judge what you find to be helpful to you.
-Matt
1st...-owners manual any kind of "printed" text and pics like a Haynes manual for your specific make and model, lots of research and funding
LSD (limited slip differential) rear end is necessary...
2nd...-Chassis stiffness- (rigid)= lower control arm brace (front), rear end brace, strut bars (front and rear), suspension upgrade, brakes in working order (can be pricey but necessary), decent clutch (hope you have a 5speed...I'm guessing you do),
*(when doing this make sure that when you use a jack always have jack stands and use a 2x4 block of stock wood between the sub-frame and and the 2ton jack, this allows the weight to be dispersed somewhat evenly on the sub-frame rather than one little section of the frame...-why-having a distorted or bent underbelly frame will cause the floor pans to be bent upwards and may cause alignment issues)*,
also routine maintenance and tune up (oil, vacuum lines, hoses, coolant, omp properly working, etc), tires (used, local store low grade used tires), then move up to a roll cage,
3rd...-upgrades- engine (S4 or S5 TII engine, 13B-RE, REW-when getting engines from other vendors make sure to ask for "has it been rebuilt recently" if no, then you should rebuild it), TII drivetrain upgrade (stronger material), when looking for better performance = upgrade turbo (need lots of research and funding), have a port job done (while the rebuild is being done), ceramic coatings on rotor surfaces, ss braided lines with teflon hoses, high grade bolts, not necessarily bigger exhaust-but a more free flowing exhaust,
There is a lot more that can be done to just the engine and EMS (engine management system) or injectors, FMIC, AI (alcohol injection), electric boost controller, turbo timer, etc...but take it slow and easy and do it right the first time.
Big question should be asked...is this a DD (daily driver) or Track Car?
How much money are you willing to spend on it (bare minimum or anything necessary to make it perform for what you want it to do)?
-Any more questions then just PM me, you can do a SEARCH and find all the information but much of it is experience, opinion, and facts- you need to look at all and judge what you find to be helpful to you.
-Matt
im willing to put all my money into her lol
it all takes time i got to get coilovers right now i put on RB springs and tokico blues in your opinion should i cut the springs or no?
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