Just bought my first Rx7. STOKED!
05-30-09, 12:17 AM
#1
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Just bought my first Rx7. STOKED!
I just picked up an 87 N/A for $500 earlier today. It needs most of a new front end, and a BUNCH of other work done. Everything seems to work fine, car starts, runs, drives, pulls fairly hard, brakes fine...
Hatch glass doesnt raise itself but stays up when lifted. All of the glass except for the windshield is mint. Sunroof front clip/rail is broken but the sunroof opens and closes with a little help. Manual tranny, clutch engages and disengages with the first 2 inches of travel on the pedal. Crank windows, electric mirrors, key doesnt work on driver door, but door locks and opens fine other than that.
Engine runs really rich at idle, and kind of goes up and down in RPMs no matter where you hold it, even with no foot on throttle. OH and that ADD COOLANT light/horn goes on and off seemingly randomly.
Nearly no rust anywhere, except in rear of trunk area, on the driver side, a little surface rust. Body is almost all straight minus the front bumper and its supports. a small dent in right passenger quarter panel as well, which is able to be pulled.
Any ideas? concerns? advice? good deal? bad deal?
Ill post more photos later.
-E
Hatch glass doesnt raise itself but stays up when lifted. All of the glass except for the windshield is mint. Sunroof front clip/rail is broken but the sunroof opens and closes with a little help. Manual tranny, clutch engages and disengages with the first 2 inches of travel on the pedal. Crank windows, electric mirrors, key doesnt work on driver door, but door locks and opens fine other than that.
Engine runs really rich at idle, and kind of goes up and down in RPMs no matter where you hold it, even with no foot on throttle. OH and that ADD COOLANT light/horn goes on and off seemingly randomly.
Nearly no rust anywhere, except in rear of trunk area, on the driver side, a little surface rust. Body is almost all straight minus the front bumper and its supports. a small dent in right passenger quarter panel as well, which is able to be pulled.
Any ideas? concerns? advice? good deal? bad deal?
Ill post more photos later.
-E
05-30-09, 11:55 PM
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Im very curious. Is there any way to tell what trim level I have?
Its N/A. Dual Exhaust. No marks like GTUs or GXL. The rear "mazda" badge is gone, but there are the holes still. Its got Grey Cloth interior. Sunroof...
Its N/A. Dual Exhaust. No marks like GTUs or GXL. The rear "mazda" badge is gone, but there are the holes still. Its got Grey Cloth interior. Sunroof...
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06-01-09, 12:14 AM
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I tackled the interior today, I pulled out the seats, and tore the nasty 22yr old carpet out!!! WOOT! Tore out the back seats also, goodbye! HELLO SNEAKY HIDDEN AMP RACK AND SUB ENCLOSURE AREA!!
I pulled out all of the dash pieces minus the actual dash board, and will hand clean them tomorrow.
Adjusted my idle screw, and seem to have fixed the throttle pulsing that was happening at idle... still kind of happens between 2k and 3.5k
Put a quart of oil in it... gonna do full change maybe this weekend.
STILL NEED to shut that "ADD COOLANT" horn up! coolant is FULL!!!
I pulled out all of the dash pieces minus the actual dash board, and will hand clean them tomorrow.
Adjusted my idle screw, and seem to have fixed the throttle pulsing that was happening at idle... still kind of happens between 2k and 3.5k
Put a quart of oil in it... gonna do full change maybe this weekend.
STILL NEED to shut that "ADD COOLANT" horn up! coolant is FULL!!!
06-11-09, 01:42 AM
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so ive had a few nice drives on it so far... needs a lot of work, but what FC doesnt? i hope that the front end i plan to buy tomorrow is in good shape!!
i plan on doing a full start to finish project journal. so anxious to get things done. i have to take things slow and do it right.
i plan on doing a full start to finish project journal. so anxious to get things done. i have to take things slow and do it right.
06-11-09, 07:39 AM
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Your add coolant indicator is either because of low coolant levels or it's also possible that your coolant level indicator sensor which sits on top of your radiator. Also if your idle is jumping up and down, it could be due to lack of coolant in your rad or possibly air trapped in your cooling system.
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06-12-09, 06:35 AM
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I took the car down to mazda-tech in lynnwood, wa and jon tuned my air flow screw and throttle position sensor screw and the throttle doesnt jump around AT ALL anymore!!! SCORE!!!
the coolant light was due to a little air bubble in the coolant passages, which ran itself through, problem solved. coolant topped off.
NEXT STEP, fix the front bumper and headlight assy. GO!
the coolant light was due to a little air bubble in the coolant passages, which ran itself through, problem solved. coolant topped off.
NEXT STEP, fix the front bumper and headlight assy. GO!
06-12-09, 09:51 AM
#15
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/specifications-what-did-2nd-generation-rx-7-come-w-options-standard-features-642372/
Depending on the VIN of your car, check either the 1987 or 1987.5 brochure. Based on the photos and your description of the car, it seems likely it is either the base or "luxury" model which was the base with a few additional features. I can't quite tell from your first picture whether your car has 4-lug or 5-lug wheels; 4-lugs were only on the base/luxury (or SE in 1987.5-1988). It is possible if you have 5 lugs that this is still a base/luxury car since many people swap over the 5-lug hubs, rotors, and upgraded 4-piston brakes.
Looks like a great deal for $500. Welcome to the community!
06-16-09, 04:06 PM
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So I finally bled the bubble(s) out of my cooling system, so my "ADD COOLANT" buzzer/light doesnt go off randomly. WOOHOO!! That was annoying.
Im happy with how its running now. Feel a lot more comfortable driving it around and to work, now that Jon @ Mazda-Tech tuned my idle screw and air control valve, and the throttle doesnt bounce anymore. THANKS JON!
I havent decided what direction to go with this project. I either want to go with:
A: The S5 TurboII 13BT engine/tranny swap, and get it ported along with carbon apex seals and intake/exhaust.
B: The 13B-REW FD Twin Turbo engine/tranny swap, and FMIC and intake/exhaust.
I want between 250 and 300 horses, but I want to maintain good driveability for everyday use.
Any ideas? input? suggestions? warnings?
Thanks!!
-E
Im happy with how its running now. Feel a lot more comfortable driving it around and to work, now that Jon @ Mazda-Tech tuned my idle screw and air control valve, and the throttle doesnt bounce anymore. THANKS JON!
I havent decided what direction to go with this project. I either want to go with:
A: The S5 TurboII 13BT engine/tranny swap, and get it ported along with carbon apex seals and intake/exhaust.
B: The 13B-REW FD Twin Turbo engine/tranny swap, and FMIC and intake/exhaust.
I want between 250 and 300 horses, but I want to maintain good driveability for everyday use.
Any ideas? input? suggestions? warnings?
Thanks!!
-E
07-03-09, 03:28 AM
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So I read a thread about running Carburetor Cleaner through into my intake via vacuum tube...
I went and bought a can of carb cleaner and decided to do this thing. I emptied about 3/4 of the can into a vacuum tube and kept the engine running by holding open the throttle. That sure was a tricky task.... I let the engine die at the end while still spraying the CC. Then I detached the air hose from the UIM and sprayed most of the rest of the can directly into the throttle chamber, while manually opening and closing the throttle valves to make sure the CC made it everywhere it could..
I then unplugged the spark wires from the ignition coils, and cranked the engine a few times to get the CC through the engine without combustion. I let it sit for a few minutes, and then plugged the spark wires back in, and fired it up after much cranking and pausing between extended cranking.
It blew a ton of smoke and CC fumes out of my exhaust(and its many cracks and holes). I had to get on the throttle to keep it running, and varied the RPMs between 3k and 6k.
It eventually stopped blowing smoke and fumes and ran on its own. To my surprise, it was TWICE as smooth on rev up, rev down, and idle. 100% improvement in sound and smoothness(not rough or jumpy or shaky)!!!!!
I IMMEDIATELY did an oil and oil filter change after the engine had a chance to cool off, and took the car for a spin. SUPER NICE!!!! Pulls a bit harder, doesnt smoke on decelleration until much higher RPMs(6700).
Im impressed.
I went and bought a can of carb cleaner and decided to do this thing. I emptied about 3/4 of the can into a vacuum tube and kept the engine running by holding open the throttle. That sure was a tricky task.... I let the engine die at the end while still spraying the CC. Then I detached the air hose from the UIM and sprayed most of the rest of the can directly into the throttle chamber, while manually opening and closing the throttle valves to make sure the CC made it everywhere it could..
I then unplugged the spark wires from the ignition coils, and cranked the engine a few times to get the CC through the engine without combustion. I let it sit for a few minutes, and then plugged the spark wires back in, and fired it up after much cranking and pausing between extended cranking.
It blew a ton of smoke and CC fumes out of my exhaust(and its many cracks and holes). I had to get on the throttle to keep it running, and varied the RPMs between 3k and 6k.
It eventually stopped blowing smoke and fumes and ran on its own. To my surprise, it was TWICE as smooth on rev up, rev down, and idle. 100% improvement in sound and smoothness(not rough or jumpy or shaky)!!!!!
I IMMEDIATELY did an oil and oil filter change after the engine had a chance to cool off, and took the car for a spin. SUPER NICE!!!! Pulls a bit harder, doesnt smoke on decelleration until much higher RPMs(6700).
Im impressed.