Johnny

Clay magic was not good enough..

any other recommendations ?

mazdaspeed00

iTrader: (6)

gasp the clay bar didnt get it out? damn. i dont know what will then. try rubbin the clay bar harder if not try buffing

mightyslash

I'm getting those too...Annoying as hell

dclin

iTrader: (4)

If you are feeling brave, try the highest grit sand paper you can find (nothing less then 2000, if available) and *lightly* WET sand it. Wet sanding is applying water (or some sort of solution) to the sanding surface in order to lubricate and wash away the residue while you are sanding. Important to apply the solution continuously. A typical squirt bottle will work fine. Should dull the paint (clear coat) and remove the spot.

Be very careful not to break thru the clear coat. If you stay with a very high grit, you should be safe (unless you sand for a few hours, hehe).

Since you are just removing water spots, starting with and ending with the highest grit available should be fine. Normally with the painting/sanding process, you would start with a lower grit, and work your way up. Each higher grit removes the scratches from the previous grit, until you get to the point where you get a smooth dull finish - the basis for the rubbing/polishing process.

Follow up with rubbing compound, polishing compound, then wax. The Meguiar's 1,2,3 system works well for me.

I highly suggest taking it to a body shop though to have it done. Or get a fender from a scrap yard to practice on. It's an extremely scary idea if you've never done it before, but (with patience and practice) the results can be amazing. (and fun!)

dclin

iTrader: (4)

I typically apply the rubbing compund, polishing compound, and wax with a polishing/buffing wheel (available at Lowe's/Home Depot) connected to a less powerfull (or adjustable speed) cordless electric drill when doing small parts. Since you are just doing spots, this should work for you too.

Using a high speed corded drill may cause you to burn thru the clear coat if you go crazy. Remember to apply LIGHT pressure.

Going back to the rubbing and polishing compounds, think of this as the 2nd and last highest grits. The rubbing compound will remove the scratches (which should be near microscopic by now, and only show as general dullness of the general area of paint) from the last wet sandpaper you used (again, nothing less then 2000, if not higher).

The polishing compound will remove any minute traces of dullness and provide the shine. The wax, of course, protects this.

Also, I keep two seperate polishing/ buffing wheels for the rubbing/polishing compound. I pair a buffing wheel (slightly rough - relatively) with the rubbing compound, and a polishing wheel (very soft) with the polishing compound.

Daniel

Huy

Guys, take note, hard water spots can be removed easily with a vinegar and water solution.

Use a 50/50 mixture and spray it onto the surface...let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off. If the water spots are still there, apply more vinegar and let sit.

Once you are satisfied, I would suggest washing the car, then protecting the cleaned surface with wax...

I have used this method, as well as recommended it to others with 100% success.

Nathan Kwok

I've found just polishing is enough to get off bad water spots so you might want to try that before using sand paper.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Just wet sand them out wit hsome 1500 grit and then buff it out. Or take it to the bodyshop and let them do it.

wishbanzai

Use "dri-wash" and SCRUB. It will protect from this happening again also.