Stopped by Sherwin-Williams Auto paint....
10-12-07, 02:54 PM
#1
Carter 2.0
Thread Starter
Stopped by Sherwin-Williams Auto paint....
I have an '84 that is silver. They looked up a code for my car in their book and come up with SW 5B-33141-B
This is the code they said would match the Factory color which is fine with me.
Couple of questions.
A. does anyone have any way of verifying that this is the right color?
B. Any other suggestions than SW for buying paint
B.1. If so what color code (if you know)
C. The paint quote was $120.30 for 1 gallon of silver $19.00 for 2 qts of hardener(?) Then $78 for 1 Gal of clear and 1qt of hardener(?)
$220 over all to which they added would be plenty enough to paint the whole car.
I know my nomenclature may be off....I know very little about painting.
My plan is this......
I've had shops paint my cars in the past only to be very disappointed until I ran into this guy named Musser. Musser runs a mobile auto detail and can buff like a madman. My RX7 got painted and it looked nasty with tons of fish eyes etc. Then the body shop tried to buff, but it came out with millions of swirls......Musser wet sanded it and then buffed it and it looked great afterwards.
His words to me, "All new paint needs to be 'rubbed out' in order to look good"
I figure if some Yayhoo is gonna shoot nasty paint all over the place which needs to be 'rubbed out' in the end.....why can't I at least be the yayhoo?? I can be a Yayhoo as good as anyone...just ask my father...
So, long story with silly questions is now over, your turn.
This is the code they said would match the Factory color which is fine with me.
Couple of questions.
A. does anyone have any way of verifying that this is the right color?
B. Any other suggestions than SW for buying paint
B.1. If so what color code (if you know)
C. The paint quote was $120.30 for 1 gallon of silver $19.00 for 2 qts of hardener(?) Then $78 for 1 Gal of clear and 1qt of hardener(?)
$220 over all to which they added would be plenty enough to paint the whole car.
I know my nomenclature may be off....I know very little about painting.
My plan is this......
I've had shops paint my cars in the past only to be very disappointed until I ran into this guy named Musser. Musser runs a mobile auto detail and can buff like a madman. My RX7 got painted and it looked nasty with tons of fish eyes etc. Then the body shop tried to buff, but it came out with millions of swirls......Musser wet sanded it and then buffed it and it looked great afterwards.
His words to me, "All new paint needs to be 'rubbed out' in order to look good"
I figure if some Yayhoo is gonna shoot nasty paint all over the place which needs to be 'rubbed out' in the end.....why can't I at least be the yayhoo?? I can be a Yayhoo as good as anyone...just ask my father...
So, long story with silly questions is now over, your turn.
10-12-07, 02:55 PM
#2
Carter 2.0
Thread Starter
From another forum
John I have not used Sherwin Williams for years but when I did I found it to have a lot of body (a lot of material mixed in with the mixing clear) and so I surely cannot knock it. I actually got in the habit of using it on some industrial applications because it put on a lot of material for the money. Maybe some others have used it more recently and can chime in. It is always wise to get all of the product sheets and read up on them as to how and what to mix, substrates and topcoating etc. Also make sure it is a paint that the product sheet specifies can be rubbed out. The price you quote seems to be very reasonable. I generally use PPG but it is very pricey compared to SW.
The main concern I would have though is that you are choosing one of the hardest colors to spray, silver. I realize it is original to your car but be prepared that it is hard to paint without stripes and/or mottling (where your metallics gathers in small areas like galaxies). I admire your determination though and if you decide to go ahead and give it a try you may be wise to have someone show you how to avoid some of the pitfalls with spraying heavy metallics or problematic metallics.
As to a majician being able to turn a pumpkin into a carriage be a little cautious. The silver base would have to be done well and the clear would have to be done with some quality as well. A good detailer can remove texture but it is much more difficult to remove mistakes. The key is to avoid the mistakes and then you don't have to deal with them. That can sometimes be easier said than done. Hard but not insurmountable.
If your determination continues you may want to practice on some panels before you tackle the surface of your collector car. There are many knowledgeable people on this forum and if you run into any problems I would be happy to help with a few suggestions or any way I can. Good luck.-Jim
The main concern I would have though is that you are choosing one of the hardest colors to spray, silver. I realize it is original to your car but be prepared that it is hard to paint without stripes and/or mottling (where your metallics gathers in small areas like galaxies). I admire your determination though and if you decide to go ahead and give it a try you may be wise to have someone show you how to avoid some of the pitfalls with spraying heavy metallics or problematic metallics.
As to a majician being able to turn a pumpkin into a carriage be a little cautious. The silver base would have to be done well and the clear would have to be done with some quality as well. A good detailer can remove texture but it is much more difficult to remove mistakes. The key is to avoid the mistakes and then you don't have to deal with them. That can sometimes be easier said than done. Hard but not insurmountable.
If your determination continues you may want to practice on some panels before you tackle the surface of your collector car. There are many knowledgeable people on this forum and if you run into any problems I would be happy to help with a few suggestions or any way I can. Good luck.-Jim
10-12-07, 02:55 PM
#3
Carter 2.0
Thread Starter
Thanks Jim.
I've seen silver painted on wheels that look good sitting.....but spinning they look like a color chart at slow speeds.
Then, I've seen silver where one coat had one size flake and another coat had another size flake in it. It looked bad once you stopped and examined it closely.
I've never seen the flakes gather....but I'm a dullard when it comes to most little details like that so don't think anything of it. I am sure that situation exists.....ignorance is bliss, right?
The Stripes you are referring to.....that has to be how far apart your spray gun "laps" are spaced right? For instance if you are moving the gun left and you lay out a line then going back right you space the "row" too far apart in an attempt to make the paint cover more area???
What makes the silver flakes gather?? How can you avoid it? Could that be due to surface energy and attraction of of the metals?
One more.......My little compressor can only go to 4.3 CFM at 60psi.
I don't want to paint the hood as it is too big. I may have a shop do that.......Here is my question. If you look at a C4, Almost all the panels on the car are cut into little sections. The largest being the one on the quarter panel just in front of the bumper cover and just below the rear hatch.
The way I see it, with a smaller gun you could paint those small sections with out needing a wide spray area.
The Guys at SW where saying I needed a minimum of 7 cfm with their smallest $245 gun to paint. My buddy claims that he has a 4.9 cfm with a 30 gallon tank and that is enough to paint.
So I am getting conflicting stories.
I've seen silver painted on wheels that look good sitting.....but spinning they look like a color chart at slow speeds.
Then, I've seen silver where one coat had one size flake and another coat had another size flake in it. It looked bad once you stopped and examined it closely.
I've never seen the flakes gather....but I'm a dullard when it comes to most little details like that so don't think anything of it. I am sure that situation exists.....ignorance is bliss, right?
The Stripes you are referring to.....that has to be how far apart your spray gun "laps" are spaced right? For instance if you are moving the gun left and you lay out a line then going back right you space the "row" too far apart in an attempt to make the paint cover more area???
What makes the silver flakes gather?? How can you avoid it? Could that be due to surface energy and attraction of of the metals?
One more.......My little compressor can only go to 4.3 CFM at 60psi.
I don't want to paint the hood as it is too big. I may have a shop do that.......Here is my question. If you look at a C4, Almost all the panels on the car are cut into little sections. The largest being the one on the quarter panel just in front of the bumper cover and just below the rear hatch.
The way I see it, with a smaller gun you could paint those small sections with out needing a wide spray area.
The Guys at SW where saying I needed a minimum of 7 cfm with their smallest $245 gun to paint. My buddy claims that he has a 4.9 cfm with a 30 gallon tank and that is enough to paint.
So I am getting conflicting stories.
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