I posted this in two "paint sections" on different boards. no one really responds so screw them.

the Lounge brethren will not let you down......

I have an '84 that is silver. They looked up a code for my car in their book and come up with SW 5B-33141-B

This is the code they said would match the Factory color which is fine with me.

Couple of questions.

A. does anyone have any way of verifying that this is the right color?

B. Any other suggestions than SW for buying paint
B.1. If so what color code (if you know)

C. The paint quote was $120.30 for 1 gallon of silver $19.00 for 2 qts of hardener(?) Then $78 for 1 Gal of clear and 1qt of hardener(?)
$220 over all to which they added would be plenty enough to paint the whole car.

I know my nomenclature may be off....I know very little about painting.

My plan is this......

I've had shops paint my cars in the past only to be very disappointed until I ran into this guy named Musser. Musser runs a mobile auto detail and can buff like a madman. My RX7 got painted and it looked nasty with tons of fish eyes etc. Then the body shop tried to buff, but it came out with millions of swirls......Musser wet sanded it and then buffed it and it looked great afterwards.

His words to me, "All new paint needs to be 'rubbed out' in order to look good"

I figure if some Yayhoo is gonna shoot nasty paint all over the place which needs to be 'rubbed out' in the end.....why can't I at least be the yayhoo?? I can be a Yayhoo as good as anyone...just ask my father...

So, long story with silly questions is now over, your turn.

 

I have painted many cars. THey do need to be colour snaded and buffed to look super smooth.
I grew up in body shops. ( daddies body shop, so I was 'that kid')

Paint should be about $50 per pint for GOOD paint.( including mixing ) Sometimes more. My Glassurit was about 400 per pint.
Any paint store can verify the paint code, or just tell them " 1992 mazda rx7 silver" or whatever the year/color . . and they will have a swatch (color block ) for you to take out of the book and walk over to your car to verify.

I use Temecula Valley Paint - 951) 676-2943. But any good automotive paint shop will do.

Just make sure you buy a bunch of tape, little mixing buckets . . .and start with a single stage paint if you have never done it before.
And when it comes to color sanding ., . . i will see if i still have my pictures on my cpu from my last adventure in to the paint booth.



Just started to sand . . . you can still see the gloosy fish eyes. sand till it is all 'dull' looking. The fish eyes are valleys . . you need to sand the peaks till they are at the same heighth as the valleys.



Here I am pointing at the one little piece that is done



Notice the reflection . . you can see a reflection everywhere but where it is actually done.

 

 

Good luck. I'm going to try painting a small portion of car flat black and I'm freaked out about that. I'm trying to save $100 or morw dollars by doing it mayself.

 

 

Wait a minute!!

What did "YA" mean?

and why did He edit it?

 

Do you wet sand single stage paint after your are done?

 

Doesn't matter I am not using Single stage.

 

You can if you want a smooth finish.

 

You are gonna attempt a 2 stage on your first try . . . . . ambitious.

 

^^Start talking.........

 

FIrst of all . . . you will need a really nice gun. Pay about $500 and you will get a decent one. Doing a 2 stage requires that you do everything PERFECT . . . TWICE.

Single stage, the original paint on the car, can be sprayed on ugly and sanded smooth.

THere is way too much to explain here, if you want to PM me . . . I can go in to further detail.

 

Will you paint my car for me?

 

don't let the two stage process scare you. I did my first paint job in my high school body shop on my 83 GSL. I changed the color from gunmetal grey to montego blue. it took a LOT of hours working on the car but in the end it came out awesome and was certainly rewarding. The most difficult part isn't spraying the car, it's the prep work. The wet sanding and final buff/polish is tricky too.

My job was a bare-metal resto. So not only was I concerned with the base coat and clear coat i had to fill the low spots, apply etching primer, two coats of primer/filler, guide coat and block sand, epoxy sealer, base coat, block sand, base coat, block sand, base coat, block sand, clear coat, block sand, clear coat, clear coat, block sand, buff, and polish.

Ray