Thats the roofing thing Amur talked about above. Works exactly like Dynamat original, cost me around $25 for one door, one layer. The difference between the sound-deadened door and the original door is night and day. Door closes wih more of a "thump" instead of a "cling." When you bang on the outside of the door with your fist you can also hear and feel a more solid, sturdier sound. I didn't put in my components yet but I'm sure it will just add to the midbass.

I don't know if I'll be doing the trunk though. Would you reccommend it Mahjik, any noticeable improvements?

 

FWIW,

I dynamat'd my trunk years ago and it cleaned up the subwoofer so well I almost fell out of the car. Reduced noise levels at cruise as well, very noticeable and well worth the effort.

twok

 

My engine is still in pieces so I have no idea.

My goal was to help reduce any droning I might get with my changed exhaust setup.

 

I've got a few questions about this actually. I've got an 87 GXL, and was wondering what you guys would recommend for a sound dampening material, how much I would need of it, and what areas would be a good idea to cover. I'm looking for maxium sound dampening here, since my car has quite a bit of road noise to it. Thanks for the help.

 

wow.. thanks for all the info

 

driFDer: whats the name of the roofing material you used on your doors? and where di you get it?

 

There's a post on the forums about someone using the spray on quiet coat, with awesome results. Sorry don't have time to search and find link.

 

drivelikejehu - The stuff goes by many names, I think the one I got was called Peel and Seal or something like that from Home Depot.

 

A really good comparison between the different solutions
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

After reading the review I posted I have question for those of you who have installed either peel and seal or brown bead. Have you noticed a asphalt smell on hot days? Have you seen any melting or negative properties during hot days? I am a little worried because my FB gets HOT due to the black interior on mild days (80*F). I am going to tint the windows which should help a lot..

Thanks
mbaha

 

I track my car (so it gets hot) and never had any smell from the B-Quiet stuff that I used.

 

Link doesn't work anymore.

 

+1 - linq no worq

 

Works for me right now...

 

How many sq/ft do you need to do the boot panels and doors? Is it worth doing the floor aswell, my cars in bits atm anyway so is it worth it?

 

Nothing like a sticky with a busted link.

 

+2

 

Guys, it's not rocket science. The instructions just depend on the material you use, and the instructions are no different than what you get with the material. You just pick were you want it, and roll it on (spray it on, or however the dampening material you pick goes on).

 

Great link. I wound up buying some Second Skin Damplifier stuff which rated the highest in that comparison.

https://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-....cgi?pg=1&p=ps

 

I was wondering, what's the recommended temperature to apply the dampening. Could I do this in 60-70 degree weather?

 

Each manufacturer has their own suggestions.

FWIW, I applied Second Skin in 60 degree weather and it stuck nicely.

I really like the Second Skin stuff compared to the Dynamat Extreme I had used previously. It adheres much better and it made a nice difference w/o any bad smells or anything like that. Thier customer service was excellent also. Not to mention the more competitive pricing of Second Skin. I'm happy

 

Is the 2nd Skin stuff thin enough that it can go right behind the FD door panels without problems? Is that the correct place to apply it? right behind the door panels

 

no u apply it to the sheet metal in the door over the first layer for the a "2nd layer" not the panel u can also put left over strips on the basket of the speaker to block standing waves

 

Just do it already!!>!

 

Wow, if you guys noticed a difference with that cheap vinyl ****, I can't wait to see what kind of results come with REAL Dynamat!

-Tony