Painting my fd
09-21-05, 01:04 AM
#26
Originally Posted by Candy3s
we did it still looked like poo. that picture was when we had givin up at about 12am and started unbolting stuff and I decided to take pictures to remind myself how far we got.
09-21-05, 01:11 AM
#27
Not exactly a quality way to do it, but you can always use a few washers in between the bolts for the front bumper onto the front frame bar. That'll elevate the front bumper a bit lol. It may bring it a bit backward too (tiny bit) in which case you'd need to sand it down a bit more. But hey, sure beats cutting and re-fiberglassing it all over again.
IF you can return the parts, ditch that crap, and buy the polyfiber parts from VIS. VERY flexible (won't crack like fiberglass, but bends like urethane), light like glass, won't sag or get wavy like urethane, and fitment is EXCELLENT.
~Ramy
IF you can return the parts, ditch that crap, and buy the polyfiber parts from VIS. VERY flexible (won't crack like fiberglass, but bends like urethane), light like glass, won't sag or get wavy like urethane, and fitment is EXCELLENT.
~Ramy
09-21-05, 11:23 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Not exactly a quality way to do it, but you can always use a few washers in between the bolts for the front bumper onto the front frame bar. That'll elevate the front bumper a bit lol. It may bring it a bit backward too (tiny bit) in which case you'd need to sand it down a bit more. But hey, sure beats cutting and re-fiberglassing it all over again.
IF you can return the parts, ditch that crap, and buy the polyfiber parts from VIS. VERY flexible (won't crack like fiberglass, but bends like urethane), light like glass, won't sag or get wavy like urethane, and fitment is EXCELLENT.
~Ramy
IF you can return the parts, ditch that crap, and buy the polyfiber parts from VIS. VERY flexible (won't crack like fiberglass, but bends like urethane), light like glass, won't sag or get wavy like urethane, and fitment is EXCELLENT.
~Ramy
09-21-05, 12:34 PM
#29
Originally Posted by medusa
what grit sand paper did you begin with? i just started prepping my fd and began w. 220 grit, then move up to 600, finish with 1200 grit
did you wet sand or just dry sand it with paper?
even using the rough 220 grit seems to hardly make any progress. not too much dust at all, and i can't get through to the primer coat under the paint. any suggestions?? or am i in the right track?
did you wet sand or just dry sand it with paper?
even using the rough 220 grit seems to hardly make any progress. not too much dust at all, and i can't get through to the primer coat under the paint. any suggestions?? or am i in the right track?
It depends on the condition of your paint and how far down you need to sand. But if everything is in fairly decent shape I would just go over the car with 180-220 grit before laying down primer. Then after the primer is down and dry spray a light guide coat of some black rattle-can primer and block the entire car with 400 grit wet. Fix any other low spots and then you are ready to spray sealer, base and clear.
Oh, and I am a fan of sanding everything by hand, don't use a DA sander unless you really need to. Most people without experience using them end up hurting things more than helping. It is really easy to create a nice rippling effect in your paint if you don't know what you are doing with the sander. I found out the hard way lol.
Last edited by afterburn27; 09-21-05 at 12:38 PM.
09-21-05, 04:19 PM
#30
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appreciate the advice, i am doing this by hand and have no experience w/ the DA machine. The 220 is making a little progress,but damn is it supposed to take this long?! After the car is done w/ the 220, I plan on black sanding it with the 400 or 600. After that it will be ready for primer, right? Also I have a CF hood w. the nice gloss finish. Do I need to sand that as well, or can the painter lay down coats over the glossy finish?
thanks again guys....
thanks again guys....
09-21-05, 04:25 PM
#31
Originally Posted by medusa
appreciate the advice, i am doing this by hand and have no experience w/ the DA machine. The 220 is making a little progress,but damn is it supposed to take this long?! After the car is done w/ the 220, I plan on black sanding it with the 400 or 600. After that it will be ready for primer, right? Also I have a CF hood w. the nice gloss finish. Do I need to sand that as well, or can the painter lay down coats over the glossy finish?
thanks again guys....
thanks again guys....
I don't have any experience painting CF parts, so no idea on the hood. I have heard they have a clear coat on them which you should be able to sand lightly, but find out from the manufacturer.
09-24-05, 03:42 AM
#33
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You think you can do a whole write up from start to finish, I'm going through a huge makeover with my FD, right now it's just sitting in my garage looking gay. It has a tad tint lighter then VR on it right now, i'm thinking of going brilliant black to match my rims and wing 
09-24-05, 08:58 PM
#36
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Titanium Grey code 25g. Here is my old car, I painted in my garage with my own hands! (I'm very proud 
) Good luck with your car and if you need help pm me.
) Good luck with your car and if you need help pm me.
Originally Posted by 1sicsol
Are you painting it too? I also painted and prepped my FD. Lots of work, but it turned out graet.
09-26-05, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sicsol
Titanium Grey code 25g. Here is my old car, I painted in my garage with my own hands! (I'm very proud ) Good luck with your car and if you need help pm me.
) Good luck with your car and if you need help pm me.
09-30-05, 10:18 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by s-thetikz
theres someone trying to sell an almost brand new R1 lip because he just got a 99 spec bumper. look around, it was like within a week ago
09-30-05, 10:20 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by smacho7
The color looks good --- it is good to see all the little errors getting erased ...
(I still remember were most of dings were)
:~) S
(I still remember were most of dings were)
:~) S
but its good to see them going away!took it out in the sun and the color friggin' rocks I couldnt be more happy with it
09-30-05, 01:07 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by smacho7
When do you think the "final coat" goes on --
I'd like to see it -- I'll be in ABQ Oct 12-14 ... Will it be done by then?
:~) S
I'd like to see it -- I'll be in ABQ Oct 12-14 ... Will it be done by then?
:~) S
we were hoping this weekend but its looking more towards next weekend for sure.
09-30-05, 03:51 PM
#46
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you should ask Scottwax on www.autopia.org about waxing. he just did his 12000 (more or less but in the 10k's) last month. looks great
11-09-05, 11:16 PM
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Hey GF! Where is the car and the paint? Quit teasing!
BTW - I blew the stationary gear and rear housing & rotor in the 10AE, so that's down. The 93 FD is getting rebuilt this week and next. We are planning a "sleeper rocket" for the 10AE. Then we are going to put the RE in the REPU and turn it into a flat bed with a stack exhaust. The '66 Bronco is getting a 600cfm Holly carb and new intake this weekend, so that will be purrrrrrrring!! Project poor! But having fun.
Miss your smiling face!.............Chucky
BTW - I blew the stationary gear and rear housing & rotor in the 10AE, so that's down. The 93 FD is getting rebuilt this week and next. We are planning a "sleeper rocket" for the 10AE. Then we are going to put the RE in the REPU and turn it into a flat bed with a stack exhaust. The '66 Bronco is getting a 600cfm Holly carb and new intake this weekend, so that will be purrrrrrrring!! Project poor! But having fun.
Miss your smiling face!.............Chucky
