ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

just ordered a ton of new stuff!
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...r_08KS650.aspx
some nice rear strut tower sound
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...r_08KS602.aspx
some thin for the doors
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._08ZX2004.aspx
and a power unit

i am also in the process of locating a nice alpine head unit for up front, and am buying
http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-PKD4-4AWG...item35a6fbbd0e
for a battery relocate/amp install.
going to be putting the battery in the passengerside bin and my amplifier in the drivers side bin (hopefully it doesn't get too hot) so i have got a very clean system with no wiring visible.

i like to listen to alot of metal, rock, and rap and i think this system will be an excellent, clear but bassy setup for my tastes. only thing im worried about is no having enough rear bass since the rear tower speakers are not exactly optimal for best sound. if i have any issues i will either get a set of 6x9's and put them in a box in back or a single 8-10" sub and hood my head unit up to my door speakers and use the amp to power the rear towers and the new ones.

i will let you guys know how it sounds.

Newsome79

iTrader: (3)

Im in the process of installing a Kicker L7 8 inch in the rear of mine now I just started the thread on my project so i could ask questions and people could ask me questions. Sounds like you are trying to be more discrete setup than I am so if you want a sub that uses less power, air space, and a smaller amp maybe one of the 6.5 or 8 inch Kicker CompVTs. Since we are both doing a similar thing at the same time Im gonna suscribe to your thread. Here is mine.

https://www.rx7club.com/interior-exterior-audio-26/fd-component-speaker-subwoofer-amp-install-889764/

Newsome79

iTrader: (3)

I just noticed your amplifier and speakers RMS power values are not matching up. Your speakers are 75RMS front and 65RMS rear and your amp is 35RMS X 4 at 4ohms (being that its kicker it will probably do 45 X 4). You may need a bigger amp to drive those without distortion at high volume.

If you want a sub you could go ahead and get the same amp im using (will not fit in rear bins) but will bolt to damonb style (search damonb if you want to see it) sub box behind cargo divider. It will power a sub and deliever 70 RMS to all 4 channels. Or, maybe another of the same amp and bridge them both. If you don't listen at really high volume and don't have a sub im sure it will still sound great you just wont be "Livin Loud" (Kicker catch phrase). If you get a sub and another amp it "may" cause your mids and highs to get drowned out.

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

i did not know that rms values needed to match exactly for good sound. i figured as long as the speakers were getting close to the rms they require the sound quality would be pretty good. my reasoning for this is that back in the day when i had an integra i had 2 sets of alpine 6.5's and they sounded amazing straight off the head unit. yes they were both 6.5's but they were also underpowered... i could easily call online car stereo and order some 6" rear tower speakers, for the same rms value. the 6" is supposed to be stock size anyways but i went 6 3/4 because i know with a little fab it will easily fit.
should i call and fix my order?

Newsome79

iTrader: (3)

you are correct they dont need to match exactly. I had a truck with some pioneer 6.5 coaxials and 4X6 coaxials running off two different alpine head units and it always sounded good to me. I even installed a JL audio stealth box with a 8inch sub and it sounded even better gotta love alpine the active crossovers in the head unit allowed me to tune the speakers well so they didn't distort. Without that alpine head unit i would have been distorting them like crazy to keep up with the sub volume.

Im not the expert of experts on SQ verses SPL. However I am about 99.9% positive those speakers will sound great compared to the stockers on that amp and they will sound better than just off the head unit. But you risk them being not loud enough if you put in a second high power amp and sub. Like the L7 I am putting in. Otherwise it should sound good and still be much lighter than my setup. Hence my extra effort into making the box sub and amp all easily removable for any racing events.

Also if you decide to run any speakers off the head unit i would make it the rears. Keep those components powered up to get the benefits of having components. For example you could bridge the amp power the components and then run the rears on head unit and get a sub+second amp.

Im just now realizing I think you have an FC so you dont have the rear quaterpanel mounts like the FD and the damonb style box is worth nothing to you. Sorry about that mix up.

installer67

iTrader: (18)

Your RMS doesn't have to match, but if you plan on cranking it up, you want them close, or the amp to have a higher rms, it can be set lower with the gain. But more speakers get ruined from under powering than from over powering.

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

65w rms x 2
75w rms x 2
by
50w rms x 4
i should be ok as far as underpowering goes right? im close enough i think.

Newsome79

iTrader: (3)

The amp is actually 35W RMS X4 into the 4 ohm speakers. Its not the underpowering that damages the speakers or amp. It is when you you turn up the gain and volume on the deck and drive the amp into clipping basically you are hitting the DC rails of the internal power supply and you will hear distortion. If you adjust your gain correctly to the preout level of your head unit you will not clip the amp and will not damage the speakers in fact the speakers should last a long time at those power levels.

A pretty good write up about adjusting gains and clipping and how it can damage a speaker
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/...howtopic=35875

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

to be honest i really dont understand alot of that. i dont know what they mean by low, medium, high they mean bass mids and highs. i usually tune all my decks the same way since it is alpine i will use alpine head unit example. +4-6 on bass, +0-2 on mids, and -2 on highs. i have always found that tuning this way gives me the kind of sound quality i enjoy listening to and i know that highs are what blow speakers so keeping that down i can usually turn up the volume pretty good. i also match the amp settings to that, but have never had an amp on components just subs...

or maybe im completely missing it, if thats the case i can have a friend tune the system for me will probably be easier.

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

can i use a mulitmeter to observe the voltages through the rca? i have a fluke 87 5 and i can do high, low, and average readings.

SinSFDream

iTrader: (9)

No, you just got confused. Forget the multimeter, in this case it isnt what you need. I'll put it in normal terms. Your amp and your head unit do need to be "tuned" to each other. As you increase volume, music will get louder of course, but only to a certain point before it starts distorting and clipping. This occurs when the amp does not have the power to increase with the volume at a certain point. Your amp is fine, just only to a certain point. An amp twice the power would be able to get much louder without distorting but obviously the speakers are rated only to a certain amount of power also.

That amp is way better than any head unit. Just know where that point is on your head unit where the output levels out with a good sound. Trying to get out more than what is available does result in damaging speakers. Just dont crank it and expect to get awesome results. It does take a little planning and playing to get all things dialed in.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Gain doesn't affect the power that comes out of the amp it just adjusts the signal that it sends to the speakers. Gain is basically another volume **** on the amp so it's best to leave it low so that you don't blow your speakers by turning that up half way and cranking the volume. If you really don't know then just match up the rms wattages and have the setup tuned by a good sound guy in your area.

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the help guys. i am sure it will sound good, i don't know too much about the technical aspect of tuning car audio but i know what sounds good and what doesn't. i can't wait to get these they are in the mail now. hopefully by the weekend.

SinSFDream

iTrader: (9)

That is true if your amp is putting out more power than what his is. At 35W X 4, I would have the gains up more than half. Otherwise it will just require you to turn your head unit up that much more to achieve peak level. It really is a matter of how you like to tune it. I personally would rather have my setup at peak output at a lower volume so I dont have to turn the head unit up so much. I know what level not to turn it passed before clipping and distortion occur. Some tune otherwise. Gains low is definately the safest method though.

laf_13b

bitchin as

ineedfc

iTrader: (3)

ok i got my speakers in, and i was lookin for ideas as to where to mount my tweeters for best sq. i have an fc, any suggestions?

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Beside the air vents in the door panels.