mkoch1

I think the torch is adding to your problem. You want resin to dry from the inside out so the air can escape. if you heat and harden the surface first you are traping the air inside.

Proper mixing ratios will definitly help. After you mix up the resin let it sit for about 5-10 minutes before you use it, I have found this helps. Fish eyes are usually caused by grease, oil or dirt. I wouldn't think you are geting grease or oil on the part but just to make sure, wash your hands really well before handling the parts or wear rubber gloves. Between coats you can clean the part with a good wax silicon remover, this may help. Make sure the resin is completey dry before you go throwing chemicals all over it.

The main thing is to give the resin a longer curing time, not sure what brand of resin/harnder you are using but sounds like you need to get a slower hardner. Once you get the parts sanded smooth most of the air bubbles will now just be pits. If you clear coat the part you should be able to bridge the pits and end up with a smooth finish.

RedFD

Thanks Gordon. I did line up all the weaves on the panels(thanks for noticing!!) but the shift console is a little off. When I got to the end I barely had any CF left so I didnt have much play with how I could lay the stuff down.

Im sure this could be done on an FC and would probably be much easier. Ive never seen the interior of one in real life but from pictures it seems most of these panels are flat. If you search the internet for you can probably find how-to's on how to do this stuff but I never checked. Everything you see here...... mkoch1 could probably do for you... check out his site.

I think my biggest problem was that I didnt de-grease this stuff good enough. All I used was paint thinner. The people that sold me the stuff recommended the torch so i dont know...... but they were also the ones that told me resin could not be buffed(hmmm... they were wrong). I definitely wore latex gloves the whole time. I probably just need to find a slower hardener next time

mkoch1

Just recently I added an FAQ section to my site. It's got a breif step by step, list of what you need, and url's of suppliers. if you still have questions just drop me a line.

san7

I make artificial legs. My laminations are as glossy as good paint. It is all in the ratios and following the resin manufacturers directions. Secondly, a clean work invironment. Adding heat will structually weakin the resin, cause discoloration, bubbles and marr the finish. Let the resin cure on it's own. I used to make surfboards, and in those type of laminations the finish is what is important. We would mix the resin to go off overnight for a good finish. The slower the reaction the better the finish and stregnth. Hope that helps.
Ryan

RedFD

That does help... it makes sense too. There is only one thing that I dont understand. What do you do about the drips and "lips" that form on the edges? Do you just let it drip and trim it off afterwards and then just buff where you trimmed? Are there any places that could do a final professional resin coat for me so it would look like glass? Where would I take it. Because this stuff looks ok now.... but somewhere down the line I want to take it to someone to get it recoated to look PERFECT. I like the idea of my final coat being a resin one instead of paint so that it wont scratch as easily and it will give a bigger cusion for the fibers so scratches wont reach the fibers. It would also add more depth to add to the 3D effect.

VELCRO SHOES

Did you just cover you're old parts or make new ones?

How many layers?

RedFD

I just covered my old parts with one layer of cf and several layers of resin/hardener. Good point Gordon. I really like the depth that the resin gives though. I dont really know if it yellows though. Maybe different brands will react differently with aging and sunlight... Im not really sure.

san7

Surfboards are polished with large buffers and polishing compound to get a perfect finish. Probably the easiest way to fix the edges is to let it drip and either A- cut the drips off with a razor blade while the resin is still in the gel phase, then polish when dry or B- wait until the resin is cured and sand the runs, then machine polish. PS: resins are degraded by UV light, but on carbon fiber it will be hard if not impossible to tell, as the resin usually discolors. If you do not have a good bond the resin might delaminate from the plastic on a hot day. And your car will stink for a while!!!!

RedFD

I do not like the sound of that. I guess Ill have to wait and see. Maybe get a car cover. Do you think that the final coat would end up better if the resin was poured on instead of brushed on?

san7

Resin is better brushed on. It will smooth itself out to a glossy finish. Do not apply too thick, as you will get alot of runs. Use a high quality brush. If you are using polyester resin you can use acetone to clean off the brush. Don't get scared, I doubt it really will delaminate, but you should sand the plastic to make a good rough surface for the resin to bond to.
Anything resin can be sanded and re-coated, so just be patient and you will get it right. Using a power buffer and car type polishes (3m makes great stuff) will yeild you a beautiful and very durable finish. Just be patient, as it takes time to do it right.
Ryan