carbon fiber door handles
04-28-02, 11:21 PM
#26
It's never fast enough...
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If the carbon fiber covering would look as good as fully painted interior panels, I think that would be VERY nice 
04-29-02, 08:00 AM
#27
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Look at his email address. He's gov people. They are after us
Has for prices, here is what I know at the moment
1) Door handle is 150 a set.
2) exterior triangles 25 a set
3) interior triangles directly behind door handle 25 a set
4) interior triangles close to window 15 a set
The below parts I do not want to quote a price on yet. Untill I do a set I don't know how much time it will take. I am doing a set for a guy next week and will now more soon. Just don't want to quote prices I can't stick too. There is also the chance that it turns out to be such a pain in the ***, I won't be doing it agian.
5) A/c Panel
6) shifter panel
7) gauge panel (front part with the gauges)
8) gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car)
9) drivers side door parts
10) passenger side door parts
04-29-02, 09:57 AM
#28
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Originally posted by mkoch1
I do work for the social security admin, as a web systems designer, but if you **** me off I'll talk to the guys in earnings and make sure you benefits are adjusted
Has for prices, here is what I know at the moment
1) Door handle is 150 a set.
2) exterior triangles 25 a set
3) interior triangles directly behind door handle 25 a set
4) interior triangles close to window 15 a set
The below parts I do not want to quote a price on yet. Untill I do a set I don't know how much time it will take. I am doing a set for a guy next week and will now more soon. Just don't want to quote prices I can't stick too. There is also the chance that it turns out to be such a pain in the ***, I won't be doing it agian.
5) A/c Panel
6) shifter panel
7) gauge panel (front part with the gauges)
8) gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car)
9) drivers side door parts
10) passenger side door parts
I do work for the social security admin, as a web systems designer, but if you **** me off I'll talk to the guys in earnings and make sure you benefits are adjusted
Has for prices, here is what I know at the moment
1) Door handle is 150 a set.
2) exterior triangles 25 a set
3) interior triangles directly behind door handle 25 a set
4) interior triangles close to window 15 a set
The below parts I do not want to quote a price on yet. Untill I do a set I don't know how much time it will take. I am doing a set for a guy next week and will now more soon. Just don't want to quote prices I can't stick too. There is also the chance that it turns out to be such a pain in the ***, I won't be doing it agian.
5) A/c Panel
6) shifter panel
7) gauge panel (front part with the gauges)
8) gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car)
9) drivers side door parts
10) passenger side door parts
05-11-02, 10:51 AM
#29
that's JDM tyte yo!
what kind of paint is that ont he interior panels. that looks really really really good. give me some info where i can order the paint and get the steps to applications. hate to be a poser, but thats just awesome looking...
-stephen
-stephen
Last edited by dubcaps; 05-11-02 at 09:40 PM.
05-13-02, 12:18 PM
#32
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painting interoir panels
Tools you need to do it right
-Air compressor
-Automotive paint gun
-A hand sander
Supplies (find a good autobody shop supplier, they will carry everything you need. It's not cheap manly because you will be buying a lot of things and only need a little of each)
-220 grit sandpaper
-400 grit sp
-600 grit sp
-1500 grit sp
-microfinish compound (20-35 a bottle)
-hand glaze / paint polish (20-35 a bottle)
-Adhesion promoter (around 20)
-Paint (anywhere from 30-250 a pint)
-Clear coat (smallest size may run about 25)
-Hardener (smallest size may run about 25)
-Flex agent (around 20)
-Reducer
-Wax/silicon remover (around 20)
I may be off on prices; I usually try to buy in large quantities, as it is cheaper.
Heres a quick step by step
-sand all parts smooth. If you don't get them perfectly smooth you will see it through the paint. I think I used 220 then 420, then 600. Now lightly scuff with a scuffing pad. If you press hard you will leave deep scratches in the plastic that will show through the paint.
-clean the parts with a wax/silicon remover
-spray the parts with a plastic adhesion promoter
-spray the part with 2-3 coats of color, allow 10 minutes between coats. Let the last coat dry for a 1-2 hours, then you can lightly wet sand with 600 if you have any imperfection.
-(with in 24 hours of the last coat of color) spray with 2-3 coats of clear, I would add a flex agent to the clear to help avoid cracking. Normal clear coat will flex alittle but some of these parts war pretty thin an flexible.
-allow clear to dry 24 hours, if you have any imperfections wet sand with 1500, then buff with a micro finish, then a polish. If you spray the clear perfectly you won't have to wet sand or buff, this is a good thing as clear coat will shine the most if you never sand it.
-if you ended up wet sanding the clear (unless you have a paint booth, pollen or dust is going to get in the clear, wet sanding will remove most of it) wait 30 days or so and then you can apply car wax.
If this sounds like alot of work it is, you are probably better off paying a body shop to do it for you. Unless you plan on painting other things you are going to end up with a lot of supplies you will never use.
I am relitivley new to painting, had a friend how worked as a body man for years show me the ropes. It's not as easy as it looks, but if you take your time it can be done. If you have any questions along the way drop me a line. mark.koch@ssa.gov
-Air compressor
-Automotive paint gun
-A hand sander
Supplies (find a good autobody shop supplier, they will carry everything you need. It's not cheap manly because you will be buying a lot of things and only need a little of each)
-220 grit sandpaper
-400 grit sp
-600 grit sp
-1500 grit sp
-microfinish compound (20-35 a bottle)
-hand glaze / paint polish (20-35 a bottle)
-Adhesion promoter (around 20)
-Paint (anywhere from 30-250 a pint)
-Clear coat (smallest size may run about 25)
-Hardener (smallest size may run about 25)
-Flex agent (around 20)
-Reducer
-Wax/silicon remover (around 20)
I may be off on prices; I usually try to buy in large quantities, as it is cheaper.
Heres a quick step by step
-sand all parts smooth. If you don't get them perfectly smooth you will see it through the paint. I think I used 220 then 420, then 600. Now lightly scuff with a scuffing pad. If you press hard you will leave deep scratches in the plastic that will show through the paint.
-clean the parts with a wax/silicon remover
-spray the parts with a plastic adhesion promoter
-spray the part with 2-3 coats of color, allow 10 minutes between coats. Let the last coat dry for a 1-2 hours, then you can lightly wet sand with 600 if you have any imperfection.
-(with in 24 hours of the last coat of color) spray with 2-3 coats of clear, I would add a flex agent to the clear to help avoid cracking. Normal clear coat will flex alittle but some of these parts war pretty thin an flexible.
-allow clear to dry 24 hours, if you have any imperfections wet sand with 1500, then buff with a micro finish, then a polish. If you spray the clear perfectly you won't have to wet sand or buff, this is a good thing as clear coat will shine the most if you never sand it.
-if you ended up wet sanding the clear (unless you have a paint booth, pollen or dust is going to get in the clear, wet sanding will remove most of it) wait 30 days or so and then you can apply car wax.
If this sounds like alot of work it is, you are probably better off paying a body shop to do it for you. Unless you plan on painting other things you are going to end up with a lot of supplies you will never use.
I am relitivley new to painting, had a friend how worked as a body man for years show me the ropes. It's not as easy as it looks, but if you take your time it can be done. If you have any questions along the way drop me a line. mark.koch@ssa.gov
05-13-02, 12:32 PM
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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cool, maybe if I have time im going to do that. I paint enough stuff at work, it kinda sucks I get worn out at working painting, and I dont want to paint something that I actually want to paint...DAMN THE MAN
05-14-02, 11:58 AM
#35
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painting
The cheapest route would probably be to sand all the parts smooth yourself and then have a body shop just spray the paint and clear coat. When you have painting done 75% of what you are paying for is prep work. Then again the final product is only has good as the prep work. If you prep everything a body should be able to paint, clear and buff everything in about 3 hours.
06-20-02, 07:00 AM
#38
Mark your stuff looks really good. You inspired me to make so carbon stuff myself. A R1 lip actually. Made the mold and I am onto making the lip this weekend. Post pics when it is done.Ant suggestions? I am used to working with resins. I've just never done carbon fiber. I am a restoration specialsit by trade so I'm also quite used to sanding/buffing/spraying. But I don't know what to watch for when using carbon fiber. Any suggestions may save me from doing it twice the first time. Thanks,
Dave
Dave
Last edited by Fd3BOOST; 06-20-02 at 07:05 AM.
06-20-02, 01:55 PM
#39
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Biggest enemy are probably air bubbles in the resin. If you are used to working with resin shouldn't be a problem. Then it's just a matter of sanding it smooth without hitting the fibers. Once you are done if you feel like making more and selling them drop me a line maybe we could work something out. Or maybe you could sell me your mold.
As for prices on some of the above mentioned parts. I have still yet to do a set, so the first set I do gets the below prices, after the first set the prices may do up.
5) A/c Panel 50
6) shifter panel 60
7) gauge panel (front part with the gauges) 75
8) gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car) 40
9) drivers side door parts 50
10) passenger side door parts 50
Total 325 + shipping back to you.
Issues:
piece 7) on the front of the panel where it indents for the gauges may be an
issue. I am not sure I will be able to get the carbon to make these
tight turns in such a small area. If I can't get it to work I could always go
back and trim the carbon to be flush with the panel surface. You would end up
with a little bit of plastic showing. I will probably have
to make the turn signal triangles circles, I don't think I can trim the
little triangles out but I will try.
piece 10) you will need to remove the passenger side handle grip. I am not sure how to remove it but I have been told it can be done.
All parts will be covered in separate sheets, I will try to match up the pattern but it isn't easy.
If you look at my past painting projects www.carbonfiberparts.net I will be putting carbon pretty much where the yellow paint is.
Turn around time should be about 2 weeks. That's just a guess it may take longer.
As for prices on some of the above mentioned parts. I have still yet to do a set, so the first set I do gets the below prices, after the first set the prices may do up.
5) A/c Panel 50
6) shifter panel 60
7) gauge panel (front part with the gauges) 75
8) gauge panel top (part you can see from the front of the car) 40
9) drivers side door parts 50
10) passenger side door parts 50
Total 325 + shipping back to you.
Issues:
piece 7) on the front of the panel where it indents for the gauges may be an
issue. I am not sure I will be able to get the carbon to make these
tight turns in such a small area. If I can't get it to work I could always go
back and trim the carbon to be flush with the panel surface. You would end up
with a little bit of plastic showing. I will probably have
to make the turn signal triangles circles, I don't think I can trim the
little triangles out but I will try.
piece 10) you will need to remove the passenger side handle grip. I am not sure how to remove it but I have been told it can be done.
All parts will be covered in separate sheets, I will try to match up the pattern but it isn't easy.
If you look at my past painting projects www.carbonfiberparts.net I will be putting carbon pretty much where the yellow paint is.
Turn around time should be about 2 weeks. That's just a guess it may take longer.
06-22-02, 10:18 PM
#44
Mark I was thinking maybe we can work out some kind of deal. I have lots of projects I'm involved with right now. So i know I can't devote alot of time to the lip I was going to make as previously hoped. I have the mold made and is pretty good if you ask me. I would be willing to give you the mold if you make me the piece. What do you think. I could bring it to the BBQ.
