93db

I, too, am getting a loud hum from the bose system. Does anyone know if Bose has any parts available for this system?
Thanks

davesan1

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, I don't know but I strongy expect Bose no longer has parts. I suggest you do what I did - locate which side is bad and buy a second-hand amp. on this forum. There seem to be plenty around and the price is usually right! Replacement of the amp is pretty easy. Good luck!

93db

thanks for the response, can you describe where the input is for the bose so I can try to diagnose?

davesan1

iTrader: (4)

First find out if only one side is bad. You do this by putting your ear up to each of the sound “outlets” (these are the 2 “pieces” of the Bose “tube” system which protrude above the shelf in the trunk” You will likely find that the hum is stronger at one side than the other. This is the “bad” side and indicates that the amp for that side is almost certainly the problem. However, because there is also some mixing of the left and right hand physical tube areas you can also hear the hum in both tubes even if only one side is bad. Don’ worry, go to the next step below, either way.

Dismantle the Bose tube system at the left hand side of the car as you look into the trunk from the rear of the car. This is pretty straightforward but a couple of the screws can be awkward. The 2 rear amps are in the “fat” area of the tube on the left hand side. (You can clearly see where the fat part is if you compare it with the right hand side, which is narrower at the same position on the tube). The 2 amps (2 separate chassis) are mounted on a single metal plate. Each amp feeds its own speaker. Each amp has its own input plug for power, and audio input from the center panel at the front of the car where the radio is.

With the ignition “off” unplug the connector on one of the amps. Turn on the ignition. If there is no hum, that’s the bad amp.If the hums still there try unplugging the other amp’s connector, (once again turn off the ignition before unplugging). Now you have located the bad amp. (Note that the chance of both amps being bad is extremely unlikely, but you can check for this by plugging in one of the amps at a time).

Then go into this forum to the 3rd gen. "parts wanted" section (WTB) and post your request. Usually a seller will have the whole assembly with both amps on it. If both amps on it are OK, that’s the best buy because you can replace the whole thing and also be left with a spare good amp (your old remaining good amp on the metal plate that holds both of the amps. (Anyway, that’s what I did!).

That’s it. Put it all back together and you’re done!

Note that if the above procedure does not work for some reason there is a slight possibility that there is a bad or broken connection to one of the amps. This would be either at the amp’s plug(s), or in the car wiring or at the plug in the back of the radio. This is unlikely, as at the very minimum, you are getting power to the bad amp (otherwise no hum!), so that just about eliminates a bad or lose plug at the amp or at the radio end. Also, a wiring problem is very unlikely unless you’ve been sawing into the body or have other vehicle damage! If, in the last resort, you need to take the radio out, ensure first that you really need to do it. Even with the right tools (which are cheap and readily available), it can be a pain to remove and replace it.

Good luck! Dave

ismarx7

Hi!
What model and brand of aftermarket amp do you installed to you OEM Bose subwoofer?