this is what im currently working on...

 

^ I like it!!

 

Hello Ken. This is what my dash looks like also.

 

If you don't mind, can I get a close up of the gauges all the way to the right?

 

^ Yea I don't see a speedometer.

 

I'm also curious and from what I can tell starting from left to right:

AI gauge, AFR, EGT, tach,

the furthesmost gauge and most interesting:
at the top its volts, bottom is fuel, to the right oil press? and on the left dunno...

 

I think it a engine temp. I would like to know who makes it.

 

^^ I think you are right... As it makes sense

 

i have some photos somewhere i can post up of my CF autometer gauges in the OEM configuration.

Its quite amazing how well they fit into the OEM gauge bezel!

With me having a Ls1 swap, i feel more confident running autometer gauges directly to the sourse rather than using conversion boxes and whatnot attempting to get the OEM FD gauges to give me accurate readings.

PS found a shitty pic on my hard drive...

 

Be interesting to put some PLX devices in there...especially since when the bevel is removed, the LED screen is small enough by far to put into rearview mirrors if you care to. I might try that in a year when I finish everything else!

 

I like the set-up but, why the 10k rpm gauge for a V8?

 

Curious too, and I can't really think of any circumstances you wouldn't want a speedometer.

 

Here is the setup. I already have it hooked up . Will post pics soon.

Aquamist AI gauge.
Spa Design Dual EGT
AEM A/F ratio (I'm probably gonna put this somewhere else. It's too ugly).
Defi Tach (discontinued... good luck finding this one)
Speedhut Quad guage. Water temp, oil pressure, Voltage, and fuel Level.

I have a Blitz I-color boost guage that can read speed and boost at the same time. No need for a huge Speedometer. My goal was to not have a gauge outside of the cluster, but I might purchase the RE-Amemiya bezel just for the AEM AF gauge.

 

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/FD3S_015.jpg
Jerome can you identify what ohms on the oil pressure fuel and temperature and how you hooked up your wiring?

 

i shift mine at 7200. We have these things called a cam, they make special ones that move the power band around pending on how you want your engine to perform.
plus they only make one carbon fiber 5" tach, there isnt any other option.

 

do you not see the speedometer in my cluster? cant miss the damn thing.

Plus in my eyes, a tach is more important than a speedometer.

 

Aaaand ANOTHER resurrection!

Question regarding the Fuel gauge: Does it read, fine off of the stock sender?

Just got a 0-280Ω digital (Autometer 6310) and need to know if it'll read from the OEM sender or if a different one (sender) is needed.

Thanks!

(I love zombie threads!)

 

The Autometer 6310 is programmable, so you need to set the empty and full points with a momentary switch (not included). The gauge can read off of the stock fuel level sender. The programming involves using the switch (or just touching the wires together) at empty, and then at full.

 

The Man!

*high-five*

 

Th stock sender range is 7ohm F <> 76ohm E,
sort of close to the FORD style 10F 73E gauge I used.

 

Do the readings come out pretty close to actual? I'm guessing full and empty will be just a little off, and the rest of the sweep would be close enough.

 

I don't why Autometer gauges get bad rep. They are used on all kind of racing including NASCAR. What I don't like about them is their styling.

 

Awesome to hear all the facts, guys.

I know what you guys mean about the 'bad rap' bit. There was this phase in the late 90s - mid-00s that if you had AutoMeter gauges, you were the poor kid on the block....

Of course, there're a couple of cars running the EXACT SAME AM gauges that I installed in them, some 10 years ago.

The drivers changed, but the gauges didn't. Not too sure of too many othe companies that can say that.

Ditto of the 'styling' comment.