ska*utomatic

iTrader: (3)

having trouble with my aftermarket cd player. i installed it myself by just doing the color coding to the harness. I left the remoteb+ wire unatatched and the power antenna wire unatatched (didn't match colors). Everything was running pretty good and all my speakers were working etc. THen one day it just quit getting power. found out it was the fuse connected to the cd player. so i fixed that and get power now but no sound to the speakers. Thought it might be the radio relay because it had been crapping out on me lately. put a new one in and still not getting sound. The wires going to the wiring harness are all getting power and are connected tightly. I have a good ground. Any ideas. THANX
BTW it is a bose system

93BlackFD

well you suck at wiring, do you suck at posting too? there's an audio section ;-)

spurvo

ouch!!

How much of it is a bose system? All the speakers, but not the head unit? And you are sending LINE level to the "speakers", not the speaker outputs, right?

If yes to both, you need to send 12 volts along the power up wire for each speaker amp (embedded in the speakers, I know you know this, but...). You can then touch a 1.5 V battery across the positive and negative signal inputs to the speakers. Just use a AA. DON'T use a 9V, as this exceeds the max voltage input theses amps can handle. When you touch the wires to the 1.5 V battery, check for sound at the speakers. Tell me what you find, but you want to work your way back from there to see if your head unit is actually putting out LINE level signal. Plugging into a little stereo amp works for me

But if you WERE running speaker outputs from the aftermarket unit into the signal inputs of the amps... impedance mismatch, you probably blew out the amp section of your deck. The speaker amps may not be faring so well either...

jpandes

You can't install an aftermarket head unit without using an adapter. The bose system runs at a different voltage or impedance or some ****. When I had an aftermarket head unit installed, I had to buy a $40 gizmo that was designed specifically to adapt a standard head unit to run bose amps and speakers. I believe the bose stuff runs at 2 Ohms, while most aftermarket stuff is at 4 ohms.

Try www.crutchfield.com

spurvo

Really, all you bought was an adapter to take the high voltage low current speaker output from your deck and run it into low voltage low current "line level" signal, such as you might find coming from the phono outputs from your stereo. The Bose system takes these line level signals, as the speaker amplifiers are in the door right along with the speakers themselves.

To do it right, you need a head unit that only puts out line level signal. YOu need to be able to split the signal THREE ways per side, one side each for the center speaker amp (a comparitor/roll off circuit), one each for the door speakers, and one each for the base tube snake (oops!).

Or front/rear/sub line level outputs, but you might want to try swapping the hot signals for better bass performance in this set up (another comparitor circuit in the stock set up)

edit: that is to say, the bass signals would be swapped, so hot left out from the head unit feeds hot right input of the tube snake (hee!), vice verse, and the cold connections stay the same.

YAHOOOOOOO!!!

ska*utomatic

iTrader: (3)

do have the adapter. i figured out this problem. it was the wire that's lg/b. controls the relay that sends power to the amp which then powers up the whole system. (of course the wiring harness doesn't have this wire) So i just wired that directly to the remote line and BAM. i've got my sound back. thanks for all your help guys