dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

I’m installing a CrimeStopper SP-500 in a 1993 RX7. There are 2 outputs on the alarm, called OEM Rearm and OEM Disarm, I can’t figure out where they need to go. I have a wiring diagram for a 1994 RX7, which I’m told is same as the ’93, but it doesn’t identify which wire is a disarm input and which is a rearm input. Can anyone out there provide information on these connections?

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

Well, I figured it out...finally. There are 2 CPU's at the drivers kick panel. CPU#1 controls the rear window defrost, rear wiper, etc. CPU#2 is beside/behind CPU#1 and controls the signal lamps, warning lamps and...the theft deterrent system. When I found the connector on CPU#1 and the pin count corresponded with the diagram I thought I had the right connector, but none of the wire colors matched the FSM. Turns out the connectors on both CPU's have the same number of pins, but a slightly different layout and I was looking at the wrong connector. Once I found the right connector I found the wires I was searching for right away.

For future reference...Disarm goes into CPU#2 pin 1N (lt green/black) and Rearm on pin 1I (dark green/black).

squalor

iTrader: (12)

Thanx for that information; I will be doing this job on my FD soon. So both the factory and Sp-500 will be working together ? Will you be adding a actuator in the drivers door for keyless entry ?

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, both will be operational. I believe the car already has power locks.

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

I've owned my FD for 3 years and never realized that only the passenger door has power door lock. WTF???? Why would they do that? Do you know what that means? That means you just cost me another $100!

Here are some other ideas I'm working on, just to make it "MY car":

This alarm has a dome light output…I bought some 12v miniature blue fluorescent lamps that I'm going to connect to this output and mount them under the front of the seats. I'm also going to figure out a way to change the instrument panel illumination and the factory dome light to blue (probably LEDS).

I found a push button momentary switch that fits perfectly into the hole for the cigarette lighter. I'm going to replace the lighter and use the switch either as part of my garage door opener or to select the turbo-timer mode on the alarm.

I'm installing a Power FC with Remote Commander. I'm investigating how difficult it would be to separate the control buttons from the display so I can flush mount them into the center console and put the display up closer to eye level.

I've already flush mounted a Stinger LED voltmeter into the hole for the fog-light switch on the center console.

dohckiller808

did you run the volt meter to your amp? i got one hooked up at my amp and one hooked up to my front bat.

i remember you saying you were gonna play with a big boy amp.

squalor

iTrader: (12)

That sounds cool. Can you post a pic ? A link to the Stinger Voltmeter ?

Research the aculator before you buy. If you hook it up to the cable coming from the inner door handle you could break the cable- hard to replace. The slickest way to do a driver side aculator is to get a RHD door handle for your LHD driver side handle. Also, while your in there, install relays for your windows so you don't have all that current going thru your window switch.

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

I don't have a picture, but I'll take one today. Meanwhile here's the link....

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...d/0/rid/123284

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

I relocated my battery to the left storage bin, so the power lead to my amp is only about 3 feet long. Since I'm running 1/0 as the power lead for my amp I figured I'd be okay just running the meter to the battery. Once I get it all going I'll check to see if the voltage is different at the amp and if it is it's easy enough to move the meter lead. I got all the wiring for the alarm mapped out, so I should be done sometime soon. Thanks for the tip though.