3 gauge DIN
Originally posted by Liquid Anarchy
makes me wish FC's had straight plastic peices, instead of the rubberized crap I'm forced to deal with
makes me wish FC's had straight plastic peices, instead of the rubberized crap I'm forced to deal with
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: KC
Originally posted by Rob XX 7
You could get the pieces from a S4, I smoothed mine, primed and painted them, installed auto meter gauges under the radio, look in the post I linked for the pic, I cant seem to figure out how to actually insert it into the post.https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=129235
You could get the pieces from a S4, I smoothed mine, primed and painted them, installed auto meter gauges under the radio, look in the post I linked for the pic, I cant seem to figure out how to actually insert it into the post.https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=129235
I got mine at Meijers--- Bondo Fiberglass Resin, and I bought the fiberglass matt from NAPA. The stuffs cheap and I think it's fine for a lot of the stuff we do.
Originally posted by cafe
Where you guys buy fiberglass stuff? any website sell it as a kit or what?
Where you guys buy fiberglass stuff? any website sell it as a kit or what?
Originally posted by RotaryWhat?
Thanks again---the process was pretty easy. Instead of making a fiberglass mold, I took a different route and I think it worked out great (wish I would of taken pictures during the early stages):
1) Cut 3 holes in a 1/4'' thick piece of plywood using a 2 1/4" hole saw (you can go smaller, but I wanted to have the gauges recessed w/ the rims sticking slightly out).
2) Stapled some saran wrap w/ a pantyhose sheet over the top of the holes.
3) Painted the pantyhose w/ fiberglass resin.
4) Took some plastic drinking cups, covered w/ mold release and shoved them through the top.
5) Let the thing dry, removed the plastic cups, and then added 2 more layers to the back side.
6) Used a 2" hole saw to cut the bottom of the 3 holes out.
7) Trimmed to size w/ my dremel and glued to the back of the dash piece (had to modify the dash piece slightly to get everything to fit without getting into the cd player opening).
8) Stuck the plastic cups back into the holes and filled the top with BondoGlass.
9) Removed the cups and sanded to match the contour of the dash piece.
10) Sanded, sanded, and sanded until it was ready to paint.
I've decided to go the carbon fiber route, so I ordered the carbon fiber material today. Hopefully I'll have everything done within the next week or two
Thanks again---the process was pretty easy. Instead of making a fiberglass mold, I took a different route and I think it worked out great (wish I would of taken pictures during the early stages):
1) Cut 3 holes in a 1/4'' thick piece of plywood using a 2 1/4" hole saw (you can go smaller, but I wanted to have the gauges recessed w/ the rims sticking slightly out).
2) Stapled some saran wrap w/ a pantyhose sheet over the top of the holes.
3) Painted the pantyhose w/ fiberglass resin.
4) Took some plastic drinking cups, covered w/ mold release and shoved them through the top.
5) Let the thing dry, removed the plastic cups, and then added 2 more layers to the back side.
6) Used a 2" hole saw to cut the bottom of the 3 holes out.
7) Trimmed to size w/ my dremel and glued to the back of the dash piece (had to modify the dash piece slightly to get everything to fit without getting into the cd player opening).
8) Stuck the plastic cups back into the holes and filled the top with BondoGlass.
9) Removed the cups and sanded to match the contour of the dash piece.
10) Sanded, sanded, and sanded until it was ready to paint.
I've decided to go the carbon fiber route, so I ordered the carbon fiber material today. Hopefully I'll have everything done within the next week or two
Anyway, just a few questions if u got some time.
A. Is it the saran wrap put first on the plywood then the pantyhose sheet, or the other way around?
B. During the process of shoving the cups through the top do you tear through the saran wrap?
C. Do you leave the saran wrap and the pantyhose sheet in the final product?
D. Could you perform step 5 with the cups still in?
E.What kinda glue did you use to stick the plywood to the back of the dash?
Thanks DN
Originally posted by Dee_seal
Thanks for the info I am gonna try this project with 4 gauges and move the A/C controls down.
Anyway, just a few questions if u got some time.
A. Is it the saran wrap put first on the plywood then the pantyhose sheet, or the other way around?
B. During the process of shoving the cups through the top do you tear through the saran wrap?
C. Do you leave the saran wrap and the pantyhose sheet in the final product?
D. Could you perform step 5 with the cups still in?
E.What kinda glue did you use to stick the plywood to the back of the dash?
Thanks DN
Thanks for the info I am gonna try this project with 4 gauges and move the A/C controls down.
Anyway, just a few questions if u got some time.
A. Is it the saran wrap put first on the plywood then the pantyhose sheet, or the other way around?
B. During the process of shoving the cups through the top do you tear through the saran wrap?
C. Do you leave the saran wrap and the pantyhose sheet in the final product?
D. Could you perform step 5 with the cups still in?
E.What kinda glue did you use to stick the plywood to the back of the dash?
Thanks DN
D) You could, but there is no reason to. The first layer you created will be plenty strong. As long as you don't try to add 2-3 layers at the same time, it shouldn't warp.
E) The plywood is just a cheap way to make the mold---it doesn't become part of the finished product. To stick the fiberglass to the plastic, I used a two-part epoxy that works on both fiberglass and plastic. You can get the stuff at any hardware or autoparts store.
Hope that helps. Don't be afraid to practice--the stuff is cheap. Just don't practice on the stock panels
Let me know how it goes and post some pictures when your done. Good luck!!!
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