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Whats up everybody, got a question for those of you who have rolled fenders before and were successful at it. I'm new to RX7's and just purchased a 1994 FD RX7 Touring LHD Silver on Black leather all optioned out with less than 50,000kms on it (less than 30k miles).
The car is all original besides some lowering springs. I would love to run some rather large wheels & tires on the car and have heard many different things about sizes and offsets and tires to the point where there never seems to be a definitive answer.
I would like to run a set of 18x10 ET22 Front and 18x11 ET16 Rear wheels with a tire that has little to no stretch. I think stretch suits some cars, just not this car. I understand that fender rolling/pulling is a *MUST* at these sizes due to the low offset. If these sizes are absolutely ludacris, someone please say so but also explain why. Please don't reply with the typical "it wont work" comment. I've went through some of the forums on wheel fitment and wasn't happy with the results.
Has anyone rolled their fenders to fit something like this and done it successfully without cracking the paint and having to involve a body shop repair? I've seen some in-person rocket bunny kits on the RX7 (the direction I originally wanted to take) but the front bumper design is actually hideous, and the fitment of the kit (maybe installers fault?) was absolutely brutal. Turned me right off. So what I want is to retain the original body of the car without drilling and cutting fenders for a wide body, but still tuck a decent sized wheel for a flush fitment. This isn't a stance game car, so don't get the wrong idea, I want it to look like some of the DTM race car fitments. flush tires and wheels, race ready for the track, but also pretty enough that she can be cleaned up for the shows.
Coilovers? Air ride? Ideally air ride setup, but I have read that depending on wheel size and width it will interfere with the suspension. Some guys swap to smaller diameter coilover setups, awesome, what works? what doesn't? Will air ride kits work? Or are the bag setups too large in diameter to fit the wheels? I would love to run the AccuAir setup due to its 36 way dampening adjustability. stiff for the track and medium for the street all the while being able to air out at a show, or set the exact height I want for the show.
Anyone with advice, its greatly appreciated. I'm a small shop in Toronto Ontario Canada and I will be using this as the shop show/project car.
The wheel size you want can easily fit, but not with the offsets you spec.
Here is my FD with 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18 front and rear.
This requires coilovers, front fender roll with mild pull, max available front camber (-2.4 deg) and just rolling the rear fender lip under on the rear (minimum available camber of -1.2 deg).
Your exact offset depends on how much camber you will run which depends on what you will use the car for.
It works out that each degree of camber moves the top of the tire 6mm on a 25" tall tire.
295 is the max for the front as any wider tire is too tall and will rub on the lower backside of the fender arch (by the vent) and the headlight bucket when you turn.
You can go wider/taller than 295 in the rear, but it requires more and more work (aftermarket trailing arms, offset shock bushings and rear fender pull along with the roll).
The wheel size you want can easily fit, but not with the offsets you spec.
Here is my FD with 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18 front and rear.
This requires coilovers, front fender roll with mild pull, max available front camber (-2.4 deg) and just rolling the rear fender lip under on the rear (minimum available camber of -1.2 deg).
Your exact offset depends on how much camber you will run which depends on what you will use the car for.
It works out that each degree of camber moves the top of the tire 6mm on a 25" tall tire.
295 is the max for the front as any wider tire is too tall and will rub on the lower backside of the fender arch (by the vent) and the headlight bucket when you turn.
You can go wider/taller than 295 in the rear, but it requires more and more work (aftermarket trailing arms, offset shock bushings and rear fender pull along with the roll).
First and foremost, thank you for the reply. I definitely wont be running an 11" front wheel, so that saves me 1 inch in width, maybe 2 in case I decide to run 9 or 9.5s up front. But the 11s in the rear must happen, or possibly an 18x10.5 ET 35. That would be a tad more appropriate of an offset compared to an ET16.
The 10.5 would be okay with me, it would pull the wheel in about 14mm plus about 1/4" (6mm) so a total of 20mm almost. that is just over 3/4inch less poke. That means 3/4inch less pulling.
as for the fronts there are 18x9.5 ET35. again, hoping to go as wide of a wheel as possible while making it as do-able on stock fenders plus some rolling.
The thing is for you to get those aggressive offsets to fit you will need to stretch the tire or run wider fenders up front. The fenders will only go so far and then you need to start playing with camber and stretching tires ,im not saying crazy stretch to where you see barrel that's just stupid.
18x10 ET22 FRONT will need to be rolled, cambered, and stretched but would highly recommend using a higher offset...
18x11 ET16 REAR will need a severe pull even with a stretched tire and camber I don't see this fitting...
I helped a guy out yesterday on the forum with pictures of my current setup that may help you out in determining what you'd like to run.
Current setup: 18x9.5 ET38 255/35FRONT 18x9.5 ET15 275/35REAR
Fronts fit no problem and could even be fine up to about an ET30. Rear needed a pretty substantial roll to be cleared and I believe 275/35 in a 9.5 wheel with ET15 is about as far as you can go. I don't see an 11" wheel ET16 fitting without a flare...
Before rolling fenders fitment below. Running 0 degrees of camber in REAR and less than .5 degree in FRONT.
The wheel size you want can easily fit, but not with the offsets you spec.
Here is my FD with 18x11 +45 and 295/30-18 front and rear.
This requires coilovers, front fender roll with mild pull, max available front camber (-2.4 deg) and just rolling the rear fender lip under on the rear (minimum available camber of -1.2 deg).
Your exact offset depends on how much camber you will run which depends on what you will use the car for.
It works out that each degree of camber moves the top of the tire 6mm on a 25" tall tire.
295 is the max for the front as any wider tire is too tall and will rub on the lower backside of the fender arch (by the vent) and the headlight bucket when you turn.
You can go wider/taller than 295 in the rear, but it requires more and more work (aftermarket trailing arms, offset shock bushings and rear fender pull along with the roll).
BTW Blue, that's a beautiful setup your running. Love seeing the 11s up front with a wide 295... Kudos to you
18x10 ET22 FRONT will need to be rolled, cambered, and stretched but would highly recommend using a higher offset...
18x11 ET16 REAR will need a severe pull even with a stretched tire and camber I don't see this fitting...
I helped a guy out yesterday on the forum with pictures of my current setup that may help you out in determining what you'd like to run.
Current setup: 18x9.5 ET38 255/35FRONT 18x9.5 ET15 275/35REAR
Fronts fit no problem and could even be fine up to about an ET30. Rear needed a pretty substantial roll to be cleared and I believe 275/35 in a 9.5 wheel with ET15 is about as far as you can go. I don't see an 11" wheel ET16 fitting without a flare...
Before rolling fenders fitment below. Running 0 degrees of camber in REAR and less than .5 degree in FRONT.
Hope this helps out
This definitely helps as this alone shows me that the 18x9.5 ET 35 will fit up front considering you said that even going down to an ET30 should fit, this should be perfect for fronts (i hope).
Rears... well options are getting "slim" 18x10.5 ET35? thoughts? Forget about the 18x11 ET16, basically that would require a widebody or fenders and cutting the body. I don't want to do that.
There is also an 18x10 ET30.
The wheels are Enkei RS05RR. I was at a car show on Sunday and saw them on a subaru WRX track car. Im sure you guys all know, but Enkei has 3 "concave" profiles called "front" "mid" and "rear". Front being flat, Mid having a bit of concave and Rear having a wonderful amount of concave. The subaru had the "rear" concave on all 4 corners. and the Rear concave you can only get in 10inch and wider fitments. As seen here:
I love these in the concave look and I feel it will give me a solid balance between having a very good looking car at a show, and also a solid race-car looking wheel.
the tire setups will have to be played with, as mentioned above, depending on camber and fender roll/pull the tire will have to be chosen to suit, along with suspension.
Recommended street & track coilover? something with adjustable dampening that can be tough at the track and comfortable enough to drive around town with?
Your welcome Pete. Everyone does their fitments different and there is no right or wrong way of calculating your fitment... The way I calculate my fitment is I first size up the tire you want to run, in my case I prefer 275 or 285/35 rears. After I have my tire size selected I calculate what the max fitment I can run from prior experience or forum members. This number for me is 100mm-105mm, and ill explain. Since ive played with different wheel options i know that anything south of 105mm from wheel mount surface to outer rim edge will fit with a roll/pull, anything North of this 105mm will require a severe pull or flare.
If you plan to run 18x10.5 ET35 is 98.35mm while the 18x10 ET30 is 97mm. In my book these wheels fit nicely. My magic number is 100mm so your damn close. Only thing to worry about is when you get into wider wheels the inner clearance you'll need to worry about but for the 10.5" your gold.
I would definitely do the 18x10.5 +35 in the rear. The 18x10 +30 would have to fit a 10mm narrower tire to fit the same to the fender as the 18x10.5 +35.
275/35-18 with a fender roll, 265/35-18 with just some camber (-1.4ish deg).
Front could be 18x10.5 +35 or 18x9.5 +35, will fit the same width tire.
265/35-18 if you want to do max camber with your roll and pull as I did or 255/35-18 if you want less camber or less fender work.
I would definitely do the 18x10.5 +35 in the rear. The 18x10 +30 would have to fit a 10mm narrower tire to fit the same to the fender as the 18x10.5 +35. 275/35-18 with a fender roll, 265/35-18 with just some camber.
I agree with this also, 18x10.5 +35. I prefer no camber and a larger roll in the rear but sometimes when a fitment is close a little camber can hurt.
Your welcome Pete. Everyone does their fitments different and there is no right or wrong way of calculating your fitment... The way I calculate my fitment is I first size up the tire you want to run, in my case I prefer 275 or 285/35 rears. After I have my tire size selected I calculate what the max fitment I can run from prior experience or forum members. This number for me is 100mm-105mm, and ill explain. Since ive played with different wheel options i know that anything south of 105mm from wheel mount surface to outer rim edge will fit with a roll/pull, anything North of this 105mm will require a severe pull or flare.
If you plan to run 18x10.5 ET35 is 98.35mm while the 18x10 ET30 is 97mm. In my book these wheels fit nicely. My magic number is 100mm so your damn close. Only thing to worry about is when you get into wider wheels the inner clearance you'll need to worry about but for the 10.5" your gold.
I know I'm replying to only one of you guys, but this counts towards all of you guys. Y'all are studs for helping me out. You guys are all kinds of awesome.
I am far from new to modifying cars and what not, but totally new to RX7's there are maybe 5 in the toronto area that I've ever seen and theyre all RHD cars and I've never personally worked on one. My dad being a mechanic of over 35 years has never even had the chance to work on one. We've never had one in our shop except our "new to us" shop car. The fitment that you show, Blue, looks perfect, flush stance, and the 10.5 ET 38 looks amazing. With the ET 35 it should be 3mm more out-board but its 3mm (1/8th inch) i could easily roll/pull that to make it fit.
Again, you guys are killer help on the wheel/fitment game.
Anyone know how much clearance there is for air-ride suspension? too large of a diameter compared to coilovers? If so, what are a good set that can take me around town without shattering my insides while also being able to perform at the track. hopefully something with seriously good dampening adjust so that i can ride stiffer at the track and soften them up on the way home. I've heard Ohlins Road and Track are quite the combo. thoughts?
Hey Blue can we see a profile shot showing the ride height? I’ve got 18x9.5” +38 on all fours and want to go lower but they already *barely* rub the front fender liners during low speed parking maneuvers. When the tires are wet I can hear them squeak as they just kiss the plastic liners.
I dont want to burn a hole in them but I do want to go lower. Your advice?
This is a pic from the top of the fender and a couple from other angles...
I’m really happy with where they sit laterally and don’t want to go any further out if it can be avoided. Tires are 265/35 18.
What say ye?
Nick
EDIT: I also plan on running a spacer in the rear to make them fit like the fronts. Any advice on how large of a spacer I should run?
Thanks!
Last edited by Brilliant7-LFC; 11-21-17 at 09:08 AM.
Hey Blue can we see a profile shot showing the ride height? I’ve got 18x9.5” +38 on all fours and want to go lower but they already *barely* rub the front fender liners during low speed parking maneuvers. When the tires are wet I can hear them squeak as they just kiss the plastic liners.
I had this problem when I ran the too tall 265/35-18. Tire would just touch the inside front of the plastic fender liners turning.
On the shorter 295/30-18 this is not a problem.
I do have the problem of the tire hitting the fender liner on hard cornering or bump where I removed the liner mounts and rolled the front fender out and it no longer supports the edge of the plastic fender liner so the plastic liner hangs over the front tire.
I got new fender liners and am vacillating between trimming the liners so this part doesn't hang or just removing the liners so I can get hot air out from under the hood.
Cyan shows where the plastic fender liner hangs down and rubs tire with suspension compression.
I don't know if spacers would help with the rubbing you are having.
My 265/35-18 that rubbed were also on +38 offset (18x10.5 +38). In my case it was the outer diameter of the tire that rubbed and a swath about 3-4" wide on the plastic, so I can't see a spacer helping that.
I actually had a problem with the 265/35-18 also rubbing the outside back edge of the fender arch on the factory mudflap. I had to keep digging out any gravel/grit that would accumulate between the body and the mudflap to keep the mudflap closer to the body and it would still rub a bit.
25" tall tire works (295/30-18)
25.3" tall tire is too tall for the front of an FD (most 265/35-18).
I don't know if spacers would help with the rubbing you are having.
My 265/35-18 that rubbed were also on +38 offset (18x10.5 +38). In my case it was the outer diameter of the tire that rubbed and a swath about 3-4" wide on the plastic, so I can't see a spacer helping that.
I actually had a problem with the 265/35-18 also rubbing the outside back edge of the fender arch on the factory mudflap. I had to keep digging out any gravel/grit that would accumulate between the body and the mudflap to keep the mudflap closer to the body and it would still rub a bit.
25" tall tire works (295/30-18)
25.3" tall tire is too tall for the front of an FD (most 265/35-18).
That is how close it is.
The spacer is for the rear's brah... lol
I want to bring the rears out slightly to match the poke on the front wheels... see what I mean?
When I ran my +38 offset and 265/35-18 I had stock rear fenders (no roll) and ~ 1.4 deg negative camber and it would just rub the sidewall lettering on the unrolled fender lip.
Lip is about ~15mm wide in the rear from what I remember, so if that is rolled you could probably do 10-20mm spacer depending on how gently or how much pull you got with your roll.
If you jack 1 side of the car up and go around to the other side you can probably see how much space there is between the fender and the tire sidewall on the compressed suspension side.
I don't know that you can run much more than a 5mm spacer at the rear, without longer studs. On the track, I use extended shank lug nuts to get back the thread room, so on the street maybe you could go 10mm, otherwise 1" so that it covers the OE studs.
08-28-17, 10:19 AM
